Upgrade Danby Kegerator to Dual Tap

[Raptor99]

I have acquired a used Danby DKC052BSLDB Kegerator. I want to upgrade it to a dual tap beer tower, and I have a new tower. But the new tower is 3" vs. 2.5" for the old tower. Is there a way I can mount the 3" dual tap tower on my kegerator?

I searched on line, but the best suggestion that I could find was to screw a piece of plywood to the kegerator using the old holes, then mount the 3" tower to that. That would be ugly and prone to growing mold. There must be a better way.

I also searched for a 2.5" dual tap beer tower, but could not find one. Here is a picture of the top of the kegerator with the old tower removed. The opposite screw holes are about 3 1/3 inches apart center to center, vs. 3 3/4 inches on the new beer tower.

 

[wsmith1625]

Why not drill new screw holes for the 3“ tower? I'm sure it's not that simple, but what exactly prevents you from doing that?

 

[Raptor99]

I am thinking about doing that. The existing holes are threaded and use machine screws to mount the tower. If I drill new holes, I would need to use sheet metal screws. That would not be nearly as sturdy. I am also hesitate to drill too deeply. I don't think that there are any vital parts in the top of the kegerator, but I have no way to be sure.

I guess if I had a machine shop I could make a flange to mate with both sets of holes. But I don't have the tools to do that.

 

[shoengine]

I am thinking about doing that. The existing holes are threaded and use machine screws to mount the tower. If I drill new holes, I would need to use sheet metal screws. That would not be nearly as sturdy. I am also hesitate to drill too deeply. I don't think that there are any vital parts in the top of the kegerator, but I have no way to be sure.

I guess if I had a machine shop I could make a flange to mate with both sets of holes. But I don't have the tools to do that.

Why couldn't you use bolts with nuts if you put through new holes?

 

[Raptor99]

The existing holes do not go through into the interior of the fridge. The holes have a threaded metal piece under the plastic top. If I drill all the way through, I could use bolts. But I was hoping to avoid that.

 

[wsmith1625]

I said screws in my last post, but really meant bolts. The tower should have come with SS bolts like mine did. No harm drilling straight through the top of the fridge.

 

[Raptor99]

I said screws in my last post, but really meant bolts. The tower should have come with SS bolts like mine did. No harm drilling straight through the top of the fridge.
View attachment 816980View attachment 816981

That's what I will probably do. My beer tower came with SS screws. Thanks for posting the pictures.

Is your kegerator a Danby? I assume that most kegerators don't put anything vital inside the top. I don't really like drilling through something when I have no idea what is inside.

 

[wsmith1625]

My kegerator is an Edgestar and was a kit that I had to assemble. Most mini refrigerators have the cooling lines in the walls. You can typically feel them warm up when the unit is cooling. The door and top are pretty safe if you need to drill.

While you have the drill out you may want to make the hole for the beer lines a little bigger too. The larger hole will allow better airflow into the tower helping to keep the beer lines cold. Cold beer lines reduce excess foam when you pour your beer.

 

[superiorsat]

You can do a passive cooling system for the beer lines. I have multiple kegerators and a few started as mini fridge's and I do have 1 Danby that I put a dual tap tower on. For cooling of the beer lines I run the tubing trough copper pipe that goes up to the tap. I leave a few inches in the kegerator to get cold and then that keeps the copper in the tower cold. Easy as can be but effective.

 

[redrocker652002]

You can do a passive cooling system for the beer lines. I have multiple kegerators and a few started as mini fridge's and I do have 1 Danby that I put a dual tap tower on. For cooling of the beer lines I run the tubing trough copper pipe that goes up to the tap. I leave a few inches in the kegerator to get cold and then that keeps the copper in the tower cold. Easy as can be but effective.

That sounds like a very easy DIY way to keep the lines cool. I might give that a go and see if it helps my issue of foaming out of the tap. So you simply put the beer line thru the copper and ran the copper up the tower? My tower is homemade with steel pipe, so I would have to figure out a way to bend the copper or figure out a way to make a connection of some sorts. Sounds like a fun project. Rock On!!!!!!!

 

[superiorsat]

So you simply put the beer line thru the copper and ran the copper up the tower?

Yes just put beer line through the copper and then electric tape the copper to the beer line to hold it up in the tower.

 

[govner1]

I have acquired a used Danby DKC052BSLDB Kegerator. I want to upgrade it to a dual tap beer tower, and I have a new tower. But the new tower is 3" vs. 2.5" for the old tower. Is there a way I can mount the 3" dual tap tower on my kegerator?

I searched on line, but the best suggestion that I could find was to screw a piece of plywood to the kegerator using the old holes, then mount the 3" tower to that. That would be ugly and prone to growing mold. There must be a better way.

I also searched for a 2.5" dual tap beer tower, but could not find one. Here is a picture of the top of the kegerator with the old tower removed. The opposite screw holes are about 3 1/3 inches apart center to center, vs. 3 3/4 inches on the new beer tower.

I upgraded from a two tap one I a four tap on a very similar kegerator. The new tower was slightly larger so I mad a new gasket of cork and drilled the appropriate he holes. Still gong strong after 10+ years!