1st attempt at a AG Kolsch recipe

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dhuggett

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I am planning my first attempt at a Kolsch this weekend. Here is my proposed recipe...

5 Gal
Projected OG: 1.048
Projected FG: 1.013
23.7 IBU
5.1 SRM
4.61 ABV

5 Lbs Floor Malted German Pilsner Malt 2.0 SRM
4 Lbs Kolsch Malt 4.5 SRM
.25 Lbs Honey Malt 24 SRM

1.5 oz Hallertau Mittlefrueh 60 Min
.5 oz Hallertau Mittlefrueh 10 Min

Wyeast 2565 Kolsch yeast

Any suggestions/corrections/comments?

:mug:
 
I'm not sure if the Honey malt would be correct. Kolsch should be clean and crisp and I think the homey malt might add a bit too much sweetness. But ... the only way to know is to try.
 
Thanks mvcorliss! I have read of others using a small addition of Honey malt, but the addition actually throws my SRM level above the standard for a Kolsch. I think I will just drop it and stick with just the Pilsner and Kolsch malts.
 
BTW, I am planning a two step decoction mash with a rest at 122F for 20 minutes and at 149F for 60 minutes. Sparging at 168F
 
I've always used Jamil's recipe in Brewing Classic Styles. It's always been everybody's favorite. Do me a favor and post your recipe here, solbes. I'd like to see it to.
 
Pay attention to pH before boiling mash in the decoction. Acid rest, protein rest, final conversion, mash out. The floor malt has phytase. Utilize it to reduce the mash pH before boiling the mash. If you don't have a pH meter, do a half hour acid rest at 90-105F. Then, pull the 1st decoction, heat and rest at 122-125F, then go to 155F until conversion takes place in the decoction kettle, then bring to a boil. If conversion in the decoction kettle is slow, thin down the mash with hot water. Don't scorch the mash. The pH of the main mash will drop during the time it takes to do the 1st decoction through conversion and boil. Add the 1st decoction to the mash tun to hit the main mash protein rest temp. The phytase will denature. Once, the temp of the main mash is stable, pull the 2nd decoction. Take the 2nd decoction asap to 150F. You are going to skip the protein rest in the 2nd decoction. Let it convert, then boil it. Add the 2nd decoction to the main mash to hit the final conversion temp. After conversion, mash out. You might want to check to see what the wort pH should be for Kolsch yeast, I think it's somewhere around 5.4-5.6. Get rid of the honey malt....Brew on...
 
Great information Vlad!!
I do have a pH meter that I use mostly to measure soil acidity in my garden (in which I will be starting some Columbus and Cascade rhiozomes this spring). I believe that my tap water is nearly neutral. Would there be any water additives that may help drop my mash pH to appropriate levels?
 
dhuggett said:
Great information Vlad!!
I do have a pH meter that I use mostly to measure soil acidity in my garden (in which I will be starting some Columbus and Cascade rhiozomes this spring). I believe that my tap water is nearly neutral. Would there be any water additives that may help drop my mash pH to appropriate levels?
Click to expand...

The pH of your water isn't really important, the pH of the mash is. Just measuring the pH of your water doesn't tell the whole story without knowing your water makeup. Pay attention to your water with a kolsch (or any lighter beer especially). You may want to follow the water primer and build up from distilled to get the best results.
 
I found a report for my water source...

pH 7.8
Na 3.36 ppm
Cl 5.93 ppm
CaCO 3 96 ppm
SO4 2.77 ppm
 
Pretty good water, but slightly alkaline (the CaCO3). I'm still learning about water chemistry, but I'd be tempted to dilute your source water with at least 50% distilled, and add 3% acid malt to your grain bill too. Hopefully someone else will chime in with better info....
 
dhugget,

If I'm reading your CaCO3 (alkalinity) correctly as 396 ppm, you have very alkaline water. This acts as a buffer to getting your mash pH lowered into the 5.4-5.6 range. Which is bad for light beers like Kolsch, pilsner, wheats, etc where there are no dark malts within the grain bill. That water diluted 40-50% with RO or distilled will make a great stout where the alkalinity works in your favor. Getting Calcium (Ca ppm) and Magnesium (Mg ppm) in your water report would also be immensely helpful.

My water has 240 ppm CaCO3, which is still pretty alkaline. I either go one of two routes with very light colored beers: 100% Reverse Osmosis water (from grocery store) and then buld the Mg and Ca back up with additions. Or use 1 gallon of unfiltered tap to get the necessary Mg and Ca (balance of water is RO), and add about 2 mL of 88% Lactic acid to reduce the mash pH. The unfiltered tap gets setout on the counter uncovered about a day before I brew so the chlorine can disappate.

This all seems a tad complicated, but can really make a difference making the light beers. There is a reson great Pilsners were made in Pilsen with very soft water and great stouts were made in Ireland with very alkaline water. Of course we can now get whatever water we want through proper filtration and additions.

Good reading from Palmer if you don't have his book:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-2.html
 
solbes said:
dhugget, If I'm reading your CaCO3 (alkalinity) correctly as 396 ppm, you have very alkaline water. This acts as a buffer to getting your mash pH lowered into the 5.4-5.6 range. Which is bad for light beers like Kolsch, pilsner, wheats, etc where there are no dark malts within the grain bill. That water diluted 40-50% with RO or distilled will make a great stout where the alkalinity works in your favor. Getting Calcium (Ca ppm) and Magnesium (Mg ppm) in your water report would also be immensely helpful. My water has 240 ppm CaCO3, which is still pretty alkaline. I either go one of two routes with very light colored beers: 100% Reverse Osmosis water (from grocery store) and then buld the Mg and Ca back up with additions. Or use 1 gallon of unfiltered tap to get the necessary Mg and Ca (balance of water is RO), and add about 2 mL of 88% Lactic acid to reduce the mash pH. The unfiltered tap gets setout on the counter uncovered about a day before I brew so the chlorine can disappate. This all seems a tad complicated, but can really make a difference making the light beers. There is a reson great Pilsners were made in Pilsen with very soft water and great stouts were made in Ireland with very alkaline water. Of course we can now get whatever water we want through proper filtration and additions. Good reading from Palmer if you don't have his book: http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-2.html
Click to expand...

I actually transcribed the report incorrectly (my bad). Here are the actual numbers from my water provider...

pH 7.8
Sodium 3.36 ppm
Chloride 5.93 ppm
Alkalinity (as CaCO3) 122 ppm
Calcium Hardness (as CaCO3) 82 ppm
Magnesium Hardness 57 ppm
Sulfate 2.27 ppm


I very much appreciate all of the assistance!
 
I initially read that as CaCO3 as 96ppm, hence my recommendation of 50% dilution. The updated numbers are even more alkaline, so I would probably do 2 gallons of distilled per 1 gallon of tap with the acid malt addition (essentially following the water primer). Light beers (kolsch, helles, pils, etc.) grain bills, the mash does not drop the pH far enough into the proper range for the beer to taste right, to get "crisp" enough imo. Hence the need for some acid malt or an acid addition. Using acid malt is exceptionally easy, and it's a known "quantity" on the pH adjustment front. Just my two cents.
 
I too have been pondering a Kolsch brew day recently.
If any of you water quality experts have a minute, can you look at my water report and let me know if there is anything I should add or look out for?

Alkalinity 67 ppm
Aluminum 13 ppb
Chloride 14 ppm
Hardness 91 ppm
Iron 10 ppb
Manganese 1 ppb
pH 7.2 Standard Units
Sulfate 26 ppm
Total Dissolved Solids 110 ppm
Zinc 115 ppb
 
The 122 ppm is certainly better, it's half of what I have. Mg and Ca are decent too.

So plugging your numbers into EZ water calculator 3.0 (free MS Excel download on this site) for a Kölsch, here are two routes you could take:

1) 100% RO water in mash/sparge, Add either 5 oz of 2% acid malt -OR- 3 oz of 88% Lactic Acid to mash for pH reduction. Add 3.5 grams of CaCl2 and 2 grams of MgSO4 to your mash to build up proper Mg and Ca levels. Estimated mash pH = 5.56

2) 80% RO water/20% tap in mash/sparge. Add either 5 oz of 2% acid malt -OR- 3 oz of 88% Lactic Acid to mash. Add 2.5 grams of CaSO4 to mash. Estimated mash pH=5.57
 
Great thread! Thanks for the decoction mash and water chemistry knowledge.

Back to the op, I've wondered what the Kolsch malt is like. I've made a few batches of Kolsch, all with 100% pilsner malt (pretty much the Northern Brewer AG kit recipe). I've thought of trying a batch with 100% Kolsch malt, but I'm not sure what the actual difference are. Anybody know details about that malt?

Also, what IBUs are you aiming for? You don't have the AA % listed for your hops. I know the Mittelfrueh are pretty low alphas, but I'm curious what specific level of bitterness you are going for.

Another thing, I really love the 2565 yeast, but some people don't like how long it takes for the krausen to drop and for it to clear out. Some people even rack out from under the krausen. But if you are patient, it will give you a clear and tasty beer. I tend to let it sit around 60°F for at least 6 to 8 weeks before packaging, sometimes longer if I have enough other homebrew to keep me occupied.
 
signpost said:
Back to the op, I've wondered what the Kolsch malt is like. I've made a few batches of Kolsch, all with 100% pilsner malt (pretty much the Northern Brewer AG kit recipe). I've thought of trying a batch with 100% Kolsch malt, but I'm not sure what the actual difference are. Anybody know details about that malt?
Click to expand...

Props to the OP on this thread. With the results shown, quite frankly I wouldn't use Kolsch malt in a kolsch with what I see. Too dark.
 
I really dig the Global Kolsch malt. Adds some grainy, slightly sweet flavors not present in straight up Pils. I go 50/50 mix with Pilsner malt to keep the color on the high end of style guidelines. Really though if I feel that making a change enhances my liking of a beer, yet teeters on the style guidelines, I will go for it in most cases. :rockin:

Signpost,

I always use gelatin to drop the WY2565. Drop the temp in primary. Rack to secondary on top of rehydrated gelatin. By the time its done "lagering" in secondary, it's pretty clear.
 
There's a difference between floor malt and high modified when it comes to mash acidulation. There's no phytase in high modified malt. It's cooked out during kilning. The kilning limits mash pH and shows little pH reduction during an acid rest. Usually, high modified 2 row lager or pils will only reach 5.8 pH. During the acid rest using floor malt, the phytase is converted to phytic acid. It is also converted to myoinositol, which becomes a nutrient for the yeast. During the acid rest with floor malt, pH will easily go from pH 6 to 5.2. The acid rest using floor malt relies less on the brewing water being acidic or calcium rich. Floor malt will gradually lower the mash pH. There's an advantage to this. The gradual lowering of pH covers both enzymes. Alpha favors around 5.8 pH. The 1st decoction is converted at alpha temps because pH is higher at that time of the process. As the mash pH drops lower, it favors beta pH. Hence, the 2nd decoction is converted at beta temps when the mash pH is about 5-5.2. In between are two other enzymes maltase and dextrinase, both favor different pH. Both are active during the protein rest. Maltase denatures at a lower temp than dextrinase. Once, phytase is denatured and if water chemistry limits pH, acid malt is a good choice. IMO lactic acid additions sticks the mash at a certain pH and is used with high modified malt. A gradual reduction of mash pH is better with decoction method. Floor malt is the better choice for decoction method. Mother nature is pretty smart. Let her do the work, it is easier.
 
Many thanx for all of the great replies! There certainly are some well informed HBTers! After reading these posts, I delayed my brew day for a week, during which I picked up 5oz of acid malt. I brewed today with 50% RO water and a three stage decoction... 30min acid rest at 102f, 30 min protein rest at 122f, then 149f for 40 min. 90 min boil. Estimated IBUs 24, final gravity 1.049. From the color of the wort, I may replace the Kolsch malt in the future with 100% Pilsner malt. Thoughts? Suggestions?
 
dhugg. It looks like ya did a great job! From the pH. I'd say that kolsch malt has natural acidity of at least 5.5pH. The same as high modified German or English pale malt. The 5.1 pH was very good. Try Weyermanns boh pils floor malt. Monitor pH, it has the ability to go below 4.7, that's too low to start a decoction. Enzymes will take a beating. Boil malt for 30-45 minutes. You'll read about only boiling for 10-20 minutes because of carmalization, darkening and shizz like that. At 30-45 minutes it won't happen, but some melanoidin will form and slight darkening, but not too much. The process creates a clearer, cleaner beer anyway. A longer boil makes the mash water "wetter", the surface tension is reduced making it easier to fly sparge. The decoction liquid will feel like oil, very slippery when rubbed between fingers. The mash will loosen up, then become thicker as it converts. Then, it will thin after protein gum is boiled out. During the boil the tiny balls of starch stuck in the husk explode, gelatinize and go into solution, it de-aerates the mash, too. It takes longer than 10-20 minutes of boiling to do all that stuff. A decoction when done correctly will have a higher og and lower fg when compared to other methods using the same grain bill. During the different rests, enzymes are beefed up. They go through their optimum temp and pH ranges three times. Sometimes four or five times depending on the beer being made. Enzymes destroyed in other methods come into play during the low temp protein rest. The enzymes work over the gelatinized starch, creating more sugars than other methods produce. After you do a bunch of tri-decoctions, gaining experience, you'll be able to tell by feel and sight when everything is lined up.
 
Ah... I was afraid to boil the decocted mash more than 10 minutes for each step. Great info! I will certainly be doing more decoction in the future.
At this time, fermentation is going strong at around 61f. Once it is racked to the secondary, would it be best to wait for some time prior to dropping to lagering temp?
 
I would drop it in primary into the upper 30's just prior to racking. Then hydrate some unflavored Knox gelatin (boil 1 cup of water, cool it down, add gelatin and wait 10 minutes, stir, and heat in microwave until it runs almost clear (about 40-50 seconds in microwave)). Add the warm gelatin solution to your empty secondary. Then rack it on top of the gelatin, set your temp controller to 35 and let it lager for 3 weeks. Gelatin works better if the beer is already cold, thus chilling it down in primary.

After the 3 weeks are up, bottle or keg. Best when fresh.
 
Thanks for the info! Sounds like a plan. 8th day I'm primary. Will plan to begin dropping temp tomorrow and drop incrementally to 30s prior to racking over gelatin.

This forum Rox!
 
Two weeks since dropping temp to ~35F. I did rack over gelatin as solbes recommended. I'm thinking that I may transfer it this weekend to a keg and begin carbonating. Carbonate for at least a week before tapping. That would be around four weeks since dropping temp to 30s.
Comments/Suggestions?
 
If it's clear, and I suspect it will be, rack it to a keg per your plan. Make sure your keg lines are squeaky clean, as Kolsch flavors are pretty delicate.

After carbonating, the only thing left is consumption :tank:
 
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390353537.121237.jpg

Here's what she looks like. A little darker in color than I was shooting for. I will opt for 100% Pilsner and drop the Kolsch malt in the future.
Slight noble aroma. Clean dry finish. Slightly cloudy yet, although the photo makes it appear more cloudy than it really is. It may need more time to chill. Overall, I find it to be a very tasty first attempt.
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I doubt my attempt would have been nearly as good without your help!
 
Looks pretty good, my mouth is watering a little bit. Strange that it came out a tad darker like that. Did you use the Global Kolsch malt? And split it with Pils or straight up Global Kolsch?

Hopefully the yeast flavors come through. Very clean up front and then you get a little vinous flavor that is just a tad fruity. A very unique yeast that is unlike anything else I've tasted. I greatly prefer it to a straight up Pilsner lager as it's more interesting.
 
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390601972.928005.jpg

She' clearing up nicely now.

BTW, I picked up a tube of White Labs WLP029. Does anyone have preference between it and Wyeast 2565?
 
I am now wondering.... Should I be measuring mash pH at the mash temp or should it be measured at closer to room temp?

I am planning a second Kolsch for tomorrow using Weyermann Bohemian Pilsner malt (of which I just purchased a sack of) and acid malt if necessary.
 
Here is my second attempt...
Lagered for 7 weeks. Beautiful light color and it could not be clearer. Nice dry finish. I believe I did prefer the flavor of the Mittlefrueh in the previous batch to the Tettnanger this time around, but this is a much finer example of the style in my opinion!


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Looks really nice! My third batch used Tett for a 25 min addition. I did not like it as much as the Hersbrucker flavor additions that were in all other batches. I do like Tettnanger in a few other styles though (Alts being one of them).

Batch #5 is lagered, kegged, and ready to drink. But I have to clear out my chocolate porter keg first. Life is such a chore!
 

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