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12X16 building with a loft big enough?

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another spot that you can see outside from the inside lol.
 
It is amazing how people can screw up things if it isn't theirs to worry or care about. we got the building set on cinder blocks. I leveled the blocks as much as I could with a long 2x4 and a small level. I got very lucky, the guys I hired to move it did a terriffic job, and set it right down on thew blocks for me. I layed a level in the middle of the floor and left to right it is dead on plumb. front to back is VERY close to plumb with a slight grade towards the front, which is what i wanted. we pulled some of the walls off to straighten em out and the idiots that built it actually took a saw and cut the lap pieces off of the boards. They are still usable but how can someone be that ridiculously stupid? Anyway we pulled up a piece of the flooring and that isn't too bad so I will probably just lay another layer over it.
 
nope..pulling all of the flooring up to straighten the joists.. some are 24" centers.. some are 22...some are 23-1/2
 
Floor joists all straight and spaced properly. I have to go to work but will lay the flooring down by drop light tonight when I get home.
 
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The ass you see belongs to my oldest son lol...Little guy in the front is the neighbor boy. His daddy was killed in a car wreck when he was just a toddler. They moved in next door, and he took to me like a duck to water. He helps me do whatever it is that I am doing. One helluva gopher when you are in the middle of doing something and one really really good polite nice kid. I took him hunting last summer and got a rerally good pic of him holding up a groundhog. His grand dad framed it amd has it hanging in his machine shop.......ANYWAY as you can see pretty major tear down rebuild going on. probably gonna get rained out today though.
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almost the entire floor has to be torn out and the joists respaced. Plus as you can see the back wall is gone right now. NONE of it is hard or even really time consuming. when you can take the side of your hand and knock the wall boards off, it isn't hard demolition lol.
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Floor is all down. It was so butchered that i am gonna have to lay another layer of flooring over it. BUT I am still way under 500 bucks.
 
I wish you all the success possible in your refab/build.

Hey: Rent a DitchWitch and cut a trench from your house to the new addition. (It's cheap and easy) Lay a direct burial underground cable in it for 50A 240V (or more) power and also a water line. (A phone line might be an additional cheap option. Hmmm? Wires for an alarm system in the future? Cable for sprinkler system down the road? Now is the time to decide if - when you have an open trench.) This way, as you go on, you can do what you want. It's a lot easier in the setup stage and hooking it up is a lot easier later.

Just saying.

I did somethig similar about 25 years ago. I built an out building for a work shop. More fun than you could ever imagine. Wishing you fun and adventure in this exciting project.!!!
 
Not to pile on, but if you open a trench, I would put in a large PVC conduit so you cn add what ever future cable you may need... Cat-5, phone, electric, cable tv, speaker wire...
 
IF i DID aLL OF THAT IT WOULD BE NICER THAN MY HOUSE LOL!!!

That's as it should be. You only sleep and eat in the house, you BREW BEER in the shed.:mug:

Seriously, do think about an extra conduit or two in a trench before finishing construction. Who knows what you might want to supply to the shed in the future. You might even be able to pipe the beer directly into the house!

Another plus with running conduit or oversized pipe is that you can pull out something that has gone bad, like a water pipe that has frozen.
 
Another plus with running conduit or oversized pipe is that you can pull out something that has gone bad, like a water pipe that has frozen.

i like this idea a lot. run your 1/2" pcv water line thru 2" conduit and then you will be able to pull it out and repair it should it ever freeze.
 
i like this idea a lot. run your 1/2" pcv water line thru 2" conduit and then you will be able to pull it out and repair it should it ever freeze.

Unless you are running the red/blue flexible water lines PVC does not bend. Also as long as you are burying the line below the frost line you should never have that problem. Dirt has a much higher R-value than an open conduit.
 
we were out brainstorming in the shed as to exactly where I wanted a cold room.. So0n thinks a huge room divided into a ferment area and a serving temp area.I think a temp controlled single room at about 55-60 degrees.. ANYWAY I reached up and pushed on the roof.. it moved up and down about 4 inches!!!! The floor and walls weren't the only place they didn't put nails in. it is not leaking and stood the bad storms earlier this year so no rush but the roof HAS to be torn off and re-nailed down. I'd like to get face to face with the guys who built it to explain to them what I think of their construction prowess.
 
A question for you guys since framing up the cold room is next. What is the general consensus on wall thickness and insulation type? Ceiling will be 2x6 beams and the floor will be insulated. The outside walls are 2x4 but I can easily make them thicker for the cold room area...any and all suggestions are welcome. I know also I need a plastic moisture barrier. at this stage I can real easily wrap the entire cold room in plastic as the walls are all pulled off right now. Do I need a specific type or can about any thick plastic sheeting work?
 
That building was constructed so crappily it makes me wonder why they even bothered in the first place. Oh well...good luck to you.

I'm jealous. I finished my garden shed just as I got back into homebrewing. Oh the possibilities!
 
That building was constructed so crappily it makes me wonder why they even bothered in the first place. Oh well...good luck to you.

I'm jealous. I finished my garden shed just as I got back into homebrewing. Oh the possibilities!

labor is free and i could not have bought the raw materials for even close to what I have payed so far. ALTHOUGH every time I find something else wrong I ask myself the same question. I believe it will be nice enough when done, just gonna take time.
 
We got the loft beams set in. we started replacing the siding and the one piece we left that they put on was so crooked that we argued for 20 minutes over why the 2x4s were level and square but the sides were going on way crooked. stood back and looked and realized that the piece we were using toalign with was at a HUGE angle. By tomorrow night however I should have it completely enclosed and the loft finished.
 
How lucky am I? I have a friend who works on diesel engines and rigs in general including the AC units for refrigerated trucks. He asked me tonight if he cold build a cooling unit for the cold room!!
 
That building was constructed so crappily it makes me wonder why they even bothered in the first place. Oh well...good luck to you.

I'm jealous. I finished my garden shed just as I got back into homebrewing. Oh the possibilities!
I apologize, I misread and thought you asked why I even bothered.
 
* subscribed*

I want to see the finished product.

-=Jason=-

It will be a LONG time until it is FINISHED. I hope to be done with the initial reconstruction tomorrow. IF I can just get it all enclosed tomorrow I will be happy. I am gonna have to do what I can as money becomes available. Next step will be to frame up the cold room. Then insulation then wiring it up.. Then deciding what material to put on the interior walls. Also thinking about an exhaust hood for over the brew stand.
 
With all the talk about trenching, etc, be sure if you decide to do this, you put in a separate conduit (at least 1") for the communication wires (tel., cat5). Even if they are shielded, you'll still get interference. Also, I would put in a remote temp sensor so I could check it from the house. Looks great! Great find & great job! - Dwain
 

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