12X16 building with a loft big enough?
- Thread starter OHIOSTEVE
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I wish you all the success possible in your refab/build.
Hey: Rent a DitchWitch and cut a trench from your house to the new addition. (It's cheap and easy) Lay a direct burial underground cable in it for 50A 240V (or more) power and also a water line. (A phone line might be an additional cheap option. Hmmm? Wires for an alarm system in the future? Cable for sprinkler system down the road? Now is the time to decide if - when you have an open trench.) This way, as you go on, you can do what you want. It's a lot easier in the setup stage and hooking it up is a lot easier later.
Just saying.
I did somethig similar about 25 years ago. I built an out building for a work shop. More fun than you could ever imagine. Wishing you fun and adventure in this exciting project.!!!
Hey: Rent a DitchWitch and cut a trench from your house to the new addition. (It's cheap and easy) Lay a direct burial underground cable in it for 50A 240V (or more) power and also a water line. (A phone line might be an additional cheap option. Hmmm? Wires for an alarm system in the future? Cable for sprinkler system down the road? Now is the time to decide if - when you have an open trench.) This way, as you go on, you can do what you want. It's a lot easier in the setup stage and hooking it up is a lot easier later.
Just saying.
I did somethig similar about 25 years ago. I built an out building for a work shop. More fun than you could ever imagine. Wishing you fun and adventure in this exciting project.!!!
BrewMoreBeers
Well-Known Member
Not to pile on, but if you open a trench, I would put in a large PVC conduit so you cn add what ever future cable you may need... Cat-5, phone, electric, cable tv, speaker wire...
That's as it should be. You only sleep and eat in the house, you BREW BEER in the shed.
Seriously, do think about an extra conduit or two in a trench before finishing construction. Who knows what you might want to supply to the shed in the future. You might even be able to pipe the beer directly into the house!
Another plus with running conduit or oversized pipe is that you can pull out something that has gone bad, like a water pipe that has frozen.
BrewMoreBeers
Well-Known Member
i like this idea a lot. run your 1/2" pcv water line thru 2" conduit and then you will be able to pull it out and repair it should it ever freeze.
kilted-txn
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Unless you are running the red/blue flexible water lines PVC does not bend. Also as long as you are burying the line below the frost line you should never have that problem. Dirt has a much higher R-value than an open conduit.
Candyman37
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Does a Brew Shed need to be temp controlled???
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I'd recommend it if you plan on fermenting in it.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
we were out brainstorming in the shed as to exactly where I wanted a cold room.. So0n thinks a huge room divided into a ferment area and a serving temp area.I think a temp controlled single room at about 55-60 degrees.. ANYWAY I reached up and pushed on the roof.. it moved up and down about 4 inches!!!! The floor and walls weren't the only place they didn't put nails in. it is not leaking and stood the bad storms earlier this year so no rush but the roof HAS to be torn off and re-nailed down. I'd like to get face to face with the guys who built it to explain to them what I think of their construction prowess.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
Not the whole shed, but at least the area where you ferment.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
A question for you guys since framing up the cold room is next. What is the general consensus on wall thickness and insulation type? Ceiling will be 2x6 beams and the floor will be insulated. The outside walls are 2x4 but I can easily make them thicker for the cold room area...any and all suggestions are welcome. I know also I need a plastic moisture barrier. at this stage I can real easily wrap the entire cold room in plastic as the walls are all pulled off right now. Do I need a specific type or can about any thick plastic sheeting work?
That building was constructed so crappily it makes me wonder why they even bothered in the first place. Oh well...good luck to you.
I'm jealous. I finished my garden shed just as I got back into homebrewing. Oh the possibilities!
I'm jealous. I finished my garden shed just as I got back into homebrewing. Oh the possibilities!
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
labor is free and i could not have bought the raw materials for even close to what I have payed so far. ALTHOUGH every time I find something else wrong I ask myself the same question. I believe it will be nice enough when done, just gonna take time.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
We got the loft beams set in. we started replacing the siding and the one piece we left that they put on was so crooked that we argued for 20 minutes over why the 2x4s were level and square but the sides were going on way crooked. stood back and looked and realized that the piece we were using toalign with was at a HUGE angle. By tomorrow night however I should have it completely enclosed and the loft finished.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
How lucky am I? I have a friend who works on diesel engines and rigs in general including the AC units for refrigerated trucks. He asked me tonight if he cold build a cooling unit for the cold room!!
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
I apologize, I misread and thought you asked why I even bothered.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
It will be a LONG time until it is FINISHED. I hope to be done with the initial reconstruction tomorrow. IF I can just get it all enclosed tomorrow I will be happy. I am gonna have to do what I can as money becomes available. Next step will be to frame up the cold room. Then insulation then wiring it up.. Then deciding what material to put on the interior walls. Also thinking about an exhaust hood for over the brew stand.
Dwain
Well-Known Member
With all the talk about trenching, etc, be sure if you decide to do this, you put in a separate conduit (at least 1") for the communication wires (tel., cat5). Even if they are shielded, you'll still get interference. Also, I would put in a remote temp sensor so I could check it from the house. Looks great! Great find & great job! - Dwain
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
Got everything enclosed today. we ended up pulling my truck in the yard and hooking a come along to it then to the corner of the building to pull it straight enough to get the side walls on. That went easy as pie. We got down to the last 3 boards ( back) and had to go get the neighbor who works on stuff like this all he time to come take a look at it. Even with his help we spent probably 3 hours putting up 3 boards and they still were not right due to the screwed up condition it was in. BUT everything is enclosed and now I can take my time and do a little at a time on the inside.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
As you can see in these pics the building was leaned a lot. We pulled my truck in front of it and hooked a come along from the truck to the building ( wish I had taken a pic of that) and pulled the side straight and then reattached the side walls.
This is the same wall I posted a pic of earlier that had the boards stair stepped.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
Of the entire job, so far this was the biggest pain in the ass. The framing was way wrong and it was twisted so squaring it up was impossible.we did as much as we could with jacks and wedges and saws. And even with all of that the bottom right side was out about 4 inches while the bottom left was about 4 inches short. We got everythimng on and did some sawing and trimming and it looks ok now'
A couple of pics of my son screwing down the floor of the loft. everythimng we have done so far has been a series of screw ups and fixes. I know there are some boards we have nailed down and removed 5-6 time each. I learned from his that building something has to be easier than fixing something.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
I have a friend who works where they manufacture steel tubing.. he just called me and told me they are running what I need to build a brew stand...So the metal for the brew stand is on its way!
Looks great!
BrewMoreBeers
Well-Known Member
sounds to me like the job was too small and they did not want to do it. where are you at in Ohio... i might have an idea.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
I live in sidney. just north of dayton.
BrewMoreBeers
Well-Known Member
Check this out... http://www.tigerfoam.com/
I have a friend that works for the manufacturer. He thinks you probably only need about a 1"-2" layer of this for what you are doing. He also suggested putting the vapor barrier on the outside (the warm side) and making sure that you do not have any air leaks around the AC unit as this will let excessive moisture in. He also highly recommends you head the personal safety warnings and get a good respirator, gloves, eye protection and so on. You do not want to breath this stuff or get it on you.
I have a friend that works for the manufacturer. He thinks you probably only need about a 1"-2" layer of this for what you are doing. He also suggested putting the vapor barrier on the outside (the warm side) and making sure that you do not have any air leaks around the AC unit as this will let excessive moisture in. He also highly recommends you head the personal safety warnings and get a good respirator, gloves, eye protection and so on. You do not want to breath this stuff or get it on you.
BrewMoreBeers
Well-Known Member
we used some of this stuff to make coolers out of cardboard boxes for a recent cook out. it held ice for days.
BrewMoreBeers
Well-Known Member
he suggests the 600 foot fast rise kit for your application.
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
Steve
As you've probably figured out, the sheathing is what keeps the building square more than the 2x4's.
As you've probably figured out, the sheathing is what keeps the building square more than the 2x4's.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
I have figured and refigured and mocked it up several ways and it seems the most practical way is to make a cool room ( 60 degrees) and set a chest freezer in there. i THINK I have found a 14 cu ft one that works well for 25 bucks. IF It works out the way I want it to, I will run taps from the freezer through the wall. I also think that a 60 degree room will have FAR less issues with moisture and will not need nearly as much insulation. I figure 6x8 will give me enough room for fermenting and the freezer. The freezer is big enough to accomodate the tapped kegs and maybe a lager if I decided to try that.
jeepinjeepin
Well-Known Member
OHIOSTEVE said:
Remember that freezers don't make cold air. They just take the heat and put it somewhere else. A freezer is cold on the inside but hot on the back or bottom. The laws of thermodynamics are pretty strict.
Do you have room to place the freezer outside of the cool room? If so, maybe you can build a collar on it and duct are into the cool room.
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
no, completely seperate cooling system
OHIOSTEVE
Well-Known Member
Yeah I know. You should see peoples faces when I tell me a refrigerator does not put cold in, it takes heat out. I figured with only wanting to maintain a 60 degree ambient temp, the heat exchange would not be a huge deal. However if you guys think it will be, I am sure that I could set it up to blow the heat from the back of the freezer out of the cool room somehow.However if I build it specifically to a particular freezer and ever have to replace it then I am screwed.
jeepinjeepin
Well-Known Member
OHIOSTEVE said:
I think it will be an issue. When you factor in that the freezer is not 100% efficient and you are adding energy to the system via electricity and the heat that you take out of the room is put back into the room canceling itself out you should get a temperature rise.
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