120V RIMS Controller Build and Wiring

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tgerety21

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I have recently decided to start making the change from all propane to some sort of hybrid system. A 1500W RIMS tri-clamp element and tube from brew hardware is the direction I want to go in.
The only problem that I have been running into is that ebrewsupply and the electric brewery don't have 120V controllers. I like the set up for the ebrewsupply 30A BIAB controller (1 element, 1 pump) but not knowing a whole lot about control wiring I was wondering what type of wiring and equipment changes I would need for a 120V 15A controller.

Anything helps!
Thank you!
 
If you're interested, I have a controller that I built and a rims tube for sale. I used it to maintain mash temps with my propane setup. I never used it to boil, if you plan on going all electric I wouldn't recommend it. I think you'll be disappointed with a 1500 watt element in a rims tube if you want to boil. It definitely helps to ramp up temps.
I can let it go for 200 shipped.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/brew-gear-for-sale.675969/
 
If you're interested, I have a controller that I built and a rims tube for sale. I used it to maintain mash temps with my propane setup. I never used it to boil, if you plan on going all electric I wouldn't recommend it. I think you'll be disappointed with a 1500 watt element in a rims tube if you want to boil. It definitely helps to ramp up temps.
I can let it go for 200 shipped.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/brew-gear-for-sale.675969/

Jay,

I appreciate the offer but I am looking to do some DIY on this project. Thanks for the offer though!
 
Here's a simple 120V RIMS controller schematic:

DSPR120 1-Pump 120V Simple.PNG


Brew on :mug:
 
Honestly, my recommendation is if you plan on building it just make it a 230 volt system. You'll be glad, I built this controller and used it a few times. Now I've switched completely to electric 230v 50a, and it is an incredible difference. If you insist on using 110 look into making it 20a. That would allow you to use a hotter element. You might have 20a outlets in the kitchen, they should already be GFI's too. Just get a beefy extension cord.
 
Here's a simple 120V RIMS controller schematic:

View attachment 678912

Brew on :mug:
Wow! Just what I was looking for. Would I need a main power and heating element relay or contactor? I also kind of want to build in some interlocks in the system for the element and wort pump. Do you happen to have any schematics for that as well?
 
Having interlocks requires the use of contactors. Here's a schematic I did for a 240V E-BIAB system with interlocks:

DSPR300 1-Pump 1-Element 240V rev-2.PNG


This could be converted for 120V without much effort. Let me know if this design would meet your needs if modified for 120V.

Edit: swapped in revised version of design.

Brew on :mug:
 
Last edited:
Having interlocks requires the use of contactors. Here's a schematic I did for a 240V E-BIAB system with interlocks:

View attachment 678929

This version needs a minor modification to the connection of the 1A fuse to the right of the main power switch and contactor (needs to connect to the red wire, not the blue wire. Will work as is, but not best practice.) Could be converted for 120V without much effort. Let me know if this design would meet your needs if modified for 120V.

Brew on :mug:

Yes! This is exactly what I am looking for design-wise. Just want to know how to convert it to 120V.
Thanks!
 
Here's the design converted for 120V RIMS uses. I have added another interlock so that the element power cannot be turned on unless the pump is on.

DSPR300 120V RIMS.PNG


Brew on :mug:
 
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