110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

[Pantherjon]

Well, I took the initial plunge to build me one of these contraptions!..LOL..Just got the e-mails that my packages from Amazon will be here Wednesday! I ordered 2 2000W 120V elements, but, probably will only be using a single element system..Next up is to order the parts from Auberin and get started on the control panel..Going with the optional timer setup..Actually kind of getting excited about building this..Should improve the quality of my beer!

One quick question from a power tool abuser, first time using a 'stepped' drill bit..How do you make sure you hit your desired hole diameter and don't punch it all the way thru? The stepped bit I have on order goes up to 1 3/8" but most/all my holes need to be 1"..Just take it slow with little to no pressure on the drill?

Cheers!

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Slow and steady, low speed high torque. You'll get the hang of it, the key is to use some oil and stop every few steps to re-lube and let the metal cool down. Don't force it or you'll work harden the metal and then it will be a real pain.

 

[Pantherjon]

Thanks...Watched a few videos over at brewhardware.com that Bobby made..I think I can handle this.. Then proceeded to order a BUNCH of stuff...Quick disconnects, hose, sight glass, thermometer...LOL

Got my first bit of parts in today(a day early!:O)

 

[hypergolic]

So I just found this thread and the original schematics that PJ provided are no longer available. If someone happens to have them can you repost them? Thanks!

 

[TMannion87]

Here you go:

http://imgur.com/bvXfWHz

 

[hypergolic]

Here you go:

http://imgur.com/bvXfWHz

Thank you sir!

 

[waverz]

My new favorite thread. This is exactly what I have been looking for.

 

[waverz]

I just ordered everything needed to build a simple 110v 2000 watt single element ricirculating kettle for right around $350. I'll be using a 24qt Concord kettle, brewhardware element and enclosure, and auber controller.

The rest of the fittings and electronic components are from ebay.

In order to cut costs I've decided to use simple rocker switches on the controller as well as go with a more affordable junction box to house the electronics. While I really wanted the fancy illuminated switches, precut vented project box from auber and quick connect fittings I just couldn't justify the added expense.

I'm still undecided about which chiller to go with and am still wanting some 3 gallon ball lock kegs. I may sell a few of my 5 gallon kegs to help offset the costs.

I'm really looking forward to assembling everything and trying biab! I'll post a link when I start building and brewing.

 

[waverz]

Decided to add a few more things to my build today. Bought a bunch of stainless quick disconnects, 24v pump and pwm circuit to control flow speed. It's going to be a fun build!

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

It's a slippery slope my friend.

 

[butterblum]

Who can explain how the E-stop in this setup works? Did I read earlier in the thread that this is specifically designed to trip the GFCI outlet itself, not just interrupt the 120V supply line inside the enclosure?

 

[jrb03]

Who can explain how the E-stop in this setup works? Did I read earlier in the thread that this is specifically designed to trip the GFCI outlet itself, not just interrupt the 120V supply line inside the enclosure?

That’s exactly how it works. Much safer way of doing it, since it kills all power in the area if you have an oh-**** moment.

 

[Wagon_6]

Who can explain how the E-stop in this setup works? Did I read earlier in the thread that this is specifically designed to trip the GFCI outlet itself, not just interrupt the 120V supply line inside the enclosure?

I believe the consensus now is to not purposely leak current through a resistor to the ground to trip it for an E-Stop. You can use a contactor on the main power into the panel, but as you stated there will still be power to the contactor when the E-stop switch (Normally Closed is hit)

 

[butterblum]

I believe the consensus now is to not purposely leak current through a resistor to the ground to trip it for an E-Stop. You can use a contactor on the main power into the panel, but as you stated there will still be power to the contactor when the E-stop switch (Normally Closed is hit)

Are you saying this isn't the best way?
I am looking for an electrical explanation of why this works.
Thanks

 

[jrb03]

Are you saying this isn't the best way?
I am looking for an electrical explanation of why this works.
Thanks

I don’t know about consensus, but it’s they way I did it and would do it again. It’s an EMERGENCY stop. You want it to not only kill power to your element or pump, but everything. If you just kill box power, you still have power coming into the box, power at the wall, etc. With liquids and pumps it’s very possible your standing in liquid when you have the emergency moment. You want the GFCI to trip. I suggest doing some reading on how a GFCI works if you don’t understand it. With this setup your sending very low current to ground to trip the GFCI and kill all power to the box and in the area.

 

[butterblum]

I don’t know about consensus, but it’s they way I did it and would do it again. It’s an EMERGENCY stop. You want it to not only kill power to your element or pump, but everything. If you just kill box power, you still have power coming into the box, power at the wall, etc. With liquids and pumps it’s very possible your standing in liquid when you have the emergency moment. You want the GFCI to trip. I suggest doing some reading on how a GFCI works if you don’t understand it. With this setup your sending very low current to ground to trip the GFCI and kill all power to the box and in the area.

Sorry, moreso interested in the resistor selection and electrical theory not just "it trips the breaker".
With a 120V supply, this would result in 60mA of current to ground. Why the 1A fuse if the current will never approach this value?

 

[Wagon_6]

Do a search and read the many threads this is talked about, here's one...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/on-off-switch-necessary.494540/

I built my panel exactly per this thread and brewed on it for years. I'm upgrading and building a two 120v circuit and will be using the mushroom e-stop switch that controls both hot legs on a contactor into the panel. It acts as a main power and e-stop switch.

The 1A fuse is there to protect the wiring and components. You can use very small awg wire which cannot handle high amps if something went awry before the breaker popped.

 

[jrb03]

Sorry, moreso interested in the resistor selection and electrical theory not just "it trips the breaker".
With a 120V supply, this would result in 60mA of current to ground. Why the 1A fuse if the current will never approach this value?

Why is any fuse ever used? To protect your equipment in case of a fault. I don’t know what else to say other than it trips the breaker lol. You could forgo the resister and send a full current to ground and it would still trip, but why do that. A tiny current is sufficient to trip the GFCI and kill power at the wall.

 

[butterblum]

Why is any fuse ever used? To protect your equipment in case of a fault. I don’t know what else to say other than it trips the breaker lol. You could forgo the resister and send a full current to ground and it would still trip, but why do that. A tiny current is sufficient to trip the GFCI and kill power at the wall.

I understand the purpose of a fuse, I am looking for technical information.
Again, I guess I am looking for information from P-J; I am curious as to the selection of resistors. If you only draw 60mA, why the 1A fuse? If the resistors go bad, they actually create an open in the circuit, reducing the current in the fuse to 0A. In what case could you draw more than 1A through the fuse? Are you just protecting yourself in case that hot line disconnected and came into contact with a low resistance object?

 

[Wagon_6]

If the resistors go bad, they actually create an open in the circuit, reducing the current in the fuse to 0A.

Thinking this through, it would entirely negate the purpose of wiring the E-Stop this way. Having two possible points of failure wired to a switch for panic doesn't sit well with me.

Side note: I think the 1A fuses are in the diagrams because they a readily available. I've seen them as low as 0.5A on Amazon.

 

[butterblum]

Thinking this through, it would entirely negate the purpose of wiring the E-Stop this way. Having two possible points of failure wired to a switch for panic doesn't sit well with me.

Side note: I think the 1A fuses are in the diagrams because they a readily available. I've seen them as low as 0.5A on Amazon.

In real life, I would assume the chance of failure for a couple of resistors would be very small - it would take a huge spike or consistent usage over a long period of time.
I also was curious as to why two 1kOhm resistors were used and not a single higher valued resistor.
In case you can't tell, I am an engineer and don't want to just blindly follow a wiring diagram that I have questions about.
How did you guys ground your element/kettle?

 

[degivens]

Currently piecing this together. I have this kettle, which i'm recycling for this project:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/stainless-steel-brewmaster-brewing-kettle-85-gal.html

It has a pre-drilled 1/2" plug, intended for a thermowell. Would this be a suitable place for the RTD? Not sure I care a great deal about the sight glass, and already have that spot ready, just wondering if 1) it would kind of poke at the BIAB and 2) if it would give an accurate reading.

Thanks in advance.

 

[jeff1852]

I'm sorry, my box is pretty sloppy, I'm not sure if these pics will help. It's pretty cramped and I made the mistake of using solid core wire, use stranded wire!

Here is a shot of the back and how I used a 12 gauge extension cord for all of the plugs.

And here are some shots of the sloppy wiring job.

Hope this helps some. Let me know if you have any questions!

I know this is an old post, but do you happen to have the wiring diagram that he made for you?

 

[Wagon_6]

I know this is an old post, but do you happen to have the wiring diagram that he made for you?

I believe this is it