110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

[tribble222]

My goal is that the unit will operate with 1 element when I have plug 1 plugged in, and 2 elements when I have both plug 1 and 2 plugged in.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Separate circuits right

 

[tribble222]

Yes

 

[cachecruiser]

Check out this thread: 50A spa panel on 30A circuit - Single 5500W element



Hope this helps you.



P-J

Thanks PJ. Perfect!

 

[cachecruiser]

Check out this thread: 50A spa panel on 30A circuit - Single 5500W element

Hope this helps you.

P-J

Thanks p-J!

 

[user 78027]

Wrong Forum, won't let me delete. Sorry

 

[MI_Dogman]

jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J

P-J,

I tried to send you a message, but it said that I can not. I was wondering if I can put an LED in place of the buzzer? I want it to just be a constant Green Light that shows the system has power.

Thanks,

MI_Dogman

 

[P-J]

P-J,

I tried to send you a message, but it said that I can not. I was wondering if I can put an LED in place of the buzzer? I want it to just be a constant Green Light that shows the system has power.

Thanks,

MI_Dogman

Quick answer - Yes you can do that. Auber Instruments carries an appropriate indicator light.

P-J

 

[Carlscan26]

P-J,



I tried to send you a message, but it said that I can not. I was wondering if I can put an LED in place of the buzzer? I want it to just be a constant Green Light that shows the system has power.



Thanks,



MI_Dogman

The buzzer isn't there to indicate that the system has power...did you mean that you just want a light to indicate an alarm has been triggered?

 

[MI_Dogman]

Brewers,

I am trying to achieve basically the same set up as this thread. I only know the basics of electrical work and that is for wiring houses, not making control boxes. So I definitely am creeping on threads to try and figure it out. I basically want to know if what I have on hand can make a good SAFE controller or if I need to order some more/different parts. Please review my contents on hand. Thanks for your time brewers!

1 - 2000w Element
1 - 25a SSR with Heat Sink
2 - 20A 125v Power Switches
2 - Indicator Lights 125v
1 - Auber PID with Probe
1 - Safe Start Key 120v
1 - E-Stop
1 - Project Box
1 - 12v 6a Pump with Power supply
12 gauge wire
22 gauge wire

I don't have any fuses yet....


- Dogman

 

[MI_Dogman]

Bump

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Looks like everything you need and a little more

 

[wombatfarms]

In looking into building this. Which pump do you guys recommend that works best with this setup?

 

[OneImpBrewery]

The great brew eh pump doesn't give me any problems. Its hooked up directly to the pot so there are no priming issues. Huge plus.

 

[Wipper]

If you go with the great brew eh pump, order the speed controller too or get yourself a PWM speed controller something like this from Amazon. Huge er plus. http://www.amazon.com/12v-40v-Modulator-Control-Controller-Switch/dp/B00QVONO20/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1430166788&sr=8-11&keywords=pulse+width+modulator+dc

 

[jonatr0n]

reviving this thread from the grave. I just got done reading all 53 pages worth of information and am about to dig into my build. One question i had though was in regards to pot size. I originally planned on doing 5 gallon batches, but have been leaning towards starting with smaller batches (2.5-3 gallon) since I'm a noob and I'm really the only beer drinker in the house so I dont need a full 5 gallons worth.

Problem is I purchased a 12-gallon pot pre-drilled for recirculating and now I'm concerned the pot might be too big for small batches with the small amount of wort. I would need to keep the grains pretty low in the pot which would make it closer to the heating element.

I know I will have to adjust my final mash due to the large surface area at boil off, but will there be any other issues I might run into? A little background information is that I am planning on using the single element setup and using the stove to help boost boil.

Thanks in advance, and thanks to PJ and everyone else in the thread for the great information

 

[inhousebrew]

I'm upgrading my setup I built based off this thread a few years back and just wanted to toss these pics out of the brewerhardware element enclosure I just purchased and set up. I was originally running the rubber gasket or whatever jrb setup and think this looks a lot nicer. Not bad for $20

 

[mms05j]

jrb03,

First of all, great thread and great build. My question comes from the parts list that you posted, which includes capacitors. When looking at P-J's drawing, I did not notice capacitors, only fuses and resistors. I am wondering if capacitors were used/if they are necessary for this build?

Thank you!

 

[joebob296]

jrb03,



First of all, great thread and great build. My question comes from the parts list that you posted, which includes capacitors. When looking at P-J's drawing, I did not notice capacitors, only fuses and resistors. I am wondering if capacitors were used/if they are necessary for this build?



Thank you!

I didn't use any capacitors for my build, only 1or 2 fuses.

 

[singybrue]

I've got pretty much everything I need to start this build, but trying to decide where to mount the element-back or sides of the pot.
I will be using the Brew Hardware enclosure with the silver-soldered Tri-Clamp fitting for the 2000w SS element.
I'm leaning towards the back, just for a little cleaner look.
Question for all-Where did you put it and why? Any regrets?

 

[iijakii]

I'd vote back for the cleaner look as well, but it really doesn't matter one way or the other. If you have other pots or something you set close to it that's one thing to consider as well.

 

[time2brew]

I've got pretty much everything I need to start this build, but trying to decide where to mount the element-back or sides of the pot.
I will be using the Brew Hardware enclosure with the silver-soldered Tri-Clamp fitting for the 2000w SS element.
I'm leaning towards the back, just for a little cleaner look.
Question for all-Where did you put it and why? Any regrets?

Setting it 90 degrees from your valve will allow for a hop screen if that is in your future

 

[singybrue]

Finally wiring up my panel, and have a couple of dumb questions.
The alarm switch should be wired at the NC blocks 1 & 2 and the E-stop switch wired at the NO blocks 3 & 4, right. Any issue removing the unused blocks on the switches to to make a little more room in a tight panel? I'm using the Auber switches specified in the diagram.
Also, should the E-stop be wired with 12g wire?
Thanks!

 

[joebob296]

Finally wiring up my panel, and have a couple of dumb questions.
The alarm switch should be wired at the NC blocks 1 & 2 and the E-stop switch wired at the NO blocks 3 & 4, right. Any issue removing the unused blocks on the switches to to make a little more room in a tight panel? I'm using the Auber switches specified in the diagram.
Also, should the E-stop be wired with 12g wire?
Thanks!

Depends on your schematic. Are you using g PJ'S diagram?

 

[singybrue]

Sorry, yes. I'm using Pj's diagram at the beginning of this thread.

 

[joebob296]

Sorry, yes. I'm using Pj's diagram at the beginning of this thread.

Then yes, the E-stop gets wired to the NO contacts. And there is nothing wrong with removing unused terminal blocks.

 

[singybrue]

Then yes, the E-stop gets wired to the NO contacts. And there is nothing wrong with removing unused terminal blocks.

and the alarm switch is wired normally closed, right? Because you are opening the connection to turn off the alarm if my thinking is correct.

 

[joebob296]

and the alarm switch is wired normally closed, right? Because you are opening the connection to turn off the alarm if my thinking is correct.

Yes sir.

 

[jrb03]

Wow, it bring a smile to my face to see this thread is still alive, and a few people are still building these! Unfortunately life has thrown me some curveballs and I am no longer able to home brew. Thinking back to building and brewing on this rig.....those were some fun days.

Thanks again to PJ for the plans, and still helping people years later! I wish I was still brewing and could hang around and help, but thanks to those of you sticking around and helping . This is the first time I have logged in years, I apologize to those who asked questions and sent PMs. There are good people here who can help.

i hope those who built this rig are still using and enjoying. Cheers.

 

[cheesecake]

I am going to revamp my setup and get back into brewing I built this setup a while ago and it slowly got stripped for parts.

I'm going to rebuild it because it was one of the best systems I have ever used!!! And thanks Jrb for designing a awesome system