110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

[cmybeer]

So I just read through all of this and am starting to get interested in eBIAB for the upcoming winter here. I have a few questions:

1st: To my understanding the contractor is used because the switches aren't rated at high enough amps? I know this design was laid out for those switches specifically but could you sub in say a 15 or 20A 120V light switch and not use the contractor? I'm electrically challenged but have a few of those laying around.

2nd: Another terminal block question. Is it as simple as hooking up the hot/neutral to one screw and then just running wires of the remaining spaces? Again, electrically challenged here.

3rd: Power source, maybe I'm just confused now but what kind of chord should be used as your main power supply.

 

[jrb03]

I want to do something like this:

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-simple-1-s.jpg

I also want to add an E stop and a main on/off keyed switch.

Can anyone help with the diagram?

Please start a new thread, let's keep this thread specific to this design.

 

[jrb03]

So I just read through all of this and am starting to get interested in eBIAB for the upcoming winter here. I have a few questions:

1st: To my understanding the contractor is used because the switches aren't rated at high enough amps? I know this design was laid out for those switches specifically but could you sub in say a 15 or 20A 120V light switch and not use the contractor? I'm electrically challenged but have a few of those laying around.

2nd: Another terminal block question. Is it as simple as hooking up the hot/neutral to one screw and then just running wires of the remaining spaces? Again, electrically challenged here.

3rd: Power source, maybe I'm just confused now but what kind of chord should be used as your main power supply.

1st. I think so but I'm not an electrician either! I like it the way it's designed.

2nd. Yes.

3rd. Power cord needs to be 12guage wire. I found it easy to hack up a 12g extension cord.

 

[Rivenin]

i think i'm going to go for a very simple version of this (possibly just a switch for turning on the PID) into my spare skinny 7.5gal pot. Thus i can do 3 gallons with 2000w just fine. and if i want to do larger like 5 gallon batches, i just have to put it on the stove with the element on . quite epic, and quite cheap! since i have everything already for the most part.

 

[cheesecake]

Switch the element not the pid. That way you have complete control of power to the element. My large pot is setup that way. Its nice to just shut off the element to prevent boilovers

 

[Rivenin]

Ah, whoops! thats what i meant!

:EDIT:

Basically, this one. But just one element and add a switch in front of the pid as well. (so i can make sure it never runs dry if i'm just plugging it in, plus i dont want to have something immediately turn on when i plug it in, that freaks me out )

You would need to modify the first diagram to add another power input circuit that is independently fed on another circuit breaker. Something like this:

And - as always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Hope this help you.

 

[cmybeer]

3rd. Power cord needs to be 12guage wire. I found it easy to hack up a 12g extension cord.

Thanks for answering all my questions jrb! One more question at you or anyone else out there on the internet: where did you find that fancy-pancy 12g extension cord with the light on it. Right now I'm just internet searching and a lot of 12g extension cords I'm finding are like 50 ft long or super expensive. What should I be looking to spend on this?

 

[jrb03]

Thanks for answering all my questions jrb! One more question at you or anyone else out there on the internet: where did you find that fancy-pancy 12g extension cord with the light on it. Right now I'm just internet searching and a lot of 12g extension cords I'm finding are like 50 ft long or super expensive. What should I be looking to spend on this?

I got mine at lowes. It was 15ft and I have no idea how much it was. I want to say it was around $20 or so.

Edit: here you go

http://www.lowes.com/pd_68218-66906-UTP511815_0__?productId=3191739

 

[inhousebrew]

Well, step one is down and I'm getting ready to go. I hooked up my pump to a power source today and am running a test BIAB batch which recirculating the wort at this moment. I tested the pump and everything ran fine but then I dropped the grain bag in and it got stuck in the rather small piece of copper tubing I use as a dip tube impeding the flow. I had some trouble with that for a while but once I pushed the bag a bit out of the way it's running fine.

I'm going to get a diptube more like the one pictured on the first few pages here and I don't think it will be a problem but was wondering if anyone else had an issue with this? Trying to regulate temp on the stove right now and going up and down a bit but I guess that is why I need some electrical support.

 

[BoxBrewer]

Do you guys mash for a little longer than an hour usually? I did a stout again with my regular BIAB on the stove and mashed for 60 minutes, whereas last time I mashed for 75 (I think), and I lost like 10% efficiency. I think if I have this system and decide to do a double IPA or something, I'd want to mash for at least 90 minutes, if not a couple hours.

 

[cheesecake]

The final parts showed up so hopefully I can get it built after christmas and get a batch brewed on new years

 

[jrb03]

Do you guys mash for a little longer than an hour usually? I did a stout again with my regular BIAB on the stove and mashed for 60 minutes, whereas last time I mashed for 75 (I think), and I lost like 10% efficiency. I think if I have this system and decide to do a double IPA or something, I'd want to mash for at least 90 minutes, if not a couple hours.

I consistently get 80%+ on my system. Today I did Orfy Mild and got 83%. Always 60 min mash. I think your crush and water chemistry make a bigger difference than BIAB, or so I've read. I use a cheap corona mill and RO water with added salts and acid malt.

 

[BoxBrewer]

I consistently get 80%+ on my system. Today I did Orfy Mild and got 83%. Always 60 min mash. I think your crush and water chemistry make a bigger difference than BIAB, or so I've read. I use a cheap corona mill and RO water with added salts and acid malt.

Interesting... Well that's good to know! Thanks.

 

[thewhoner]

this system is exactly what I'm looking for.

I'll be over my head trying to do it though

 

[inhousebrew]

this system is exactly what I'm looking for.

I'll be over my head trying to do it though

Well, that's what I thought more than a month ago but since then I've been doing a lot of reading and research, asking a lot of question on this forum and pricing out parts and now I think I might just be about ready to go. I have only a little electrical experience but think I'm ready to go here. Got a few parts for Christmas, ordered a few more and have some odds and ends to pick up at home depot but I'm gonna give it a go.

 

[cheesecake]

Hopfully building the panel tonight

 

[cheesecake]

Well now I have a problem. The 1650 element wont boil 3.25 gallons of water. ..so now im stuck trying to decide what to do.

 

[jammin]

that's kinda weird. have you checked in your line voltage to your power supply?

if all else fails - you could set it on the stove top for a little help.

 

[inhousebrew]

that's kinda weird. have you checked in your line voltage to your power supply?

if all else fails - you could set it on the stove top for a little help.

This is actually what I am planning on doing. Figure it will speed things up even if the element is enough to boil

 

[cheesecake]

http://s54.beta.photobucket.com/user/ecocav04/media/20121229_154512.mp4.html

My whole pot is insulated to help with the boil

 

[cheesecake]

voltage at that outlet while the pot is running is 115.4-115.7 on my meter. Im thinking that may be my problem. I think i need ot go with a 2000watt element to get what i need. now to find one ulwd.

 

[BrothOfVigor]

voltage at that outlet while the pot is running is 115.4-115.7 on my meter. Im thinking that may be my problem. I think i need ot go with a 2000watt element to get what i need. now to find one ulwd.

It sounds like your house just receives 115V. That's normal and shouldn't be a problem.

 

[cheesecake]

Its only a problem because I cant get a boil. I think im going to upgrade the element

 

[jammin]

fwiw - my boils are fairly weak; similar to the video you posted.

the beer is still awesome!

 

[cheesecake]

do you do longer boils or just go as normal. Im used to very aggressive boils

 

[jammin]

No, just 60 min boils. Just did a 100 IBU Citra/Nelson DIPA. It's bitterness and flavor match the recipe so I don't think I'm losing utilization much if it all.

 

[jrb03]

It's hard to tell how hard your boiling with the water only. I wouldn't call my boils aggressive, and they only rolling boil over the element like your video seems to show. I boil off a little over a half gallon an hour. My system reads 212 when I'm boiling though, noticed yours only says 208. Could be a calibration deal though. I say give it a try, like jammin said my beer comes out awesome without an aggressive boil.

 

[Wagon_6]

Brewed my second batch on the system today. Wanted to post and give a HUGE thanks to jrb and jammin for helping me along (and P-J of course for the diagram!).

Control panel




Brewery

 

[jrb03]

Looks great wagon!

 

[BoxBrewer]

voltage at that outlet while the pot is running is 115.4-115.7 on my meter. Im thinking that may be my problem. I think i need ot go with a 2000watt element to get what i need. now to find one ulwd.

The one I got is 2000w, ULWD. And it's stainless!
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/SP10868GL.aspx