110 to 220 in a box... eh????

[badmajon]

http://www.quick220.com/220_volt.htm

This seems weird and unsafe. I hope I'm wrong!

 

[Sean]

That is kinda cool. It looks like you need two plugs from different circuits as input.

 

[AnOldUR]

That is kinda cool. It looks like you need two plugs from different circuits as input.

Not just two different circuits, but from opposite legs on your 220 panel.

INPUT: 108 to 125 Volts AC, 60 HZ, non-GFI circuits, two circuits, out of phase.

 

[Sparky]

Uh-oh. I can't believe something like this exists for purchasing. At least they state it being out-of-phase. I would stay away from this sort of application and do it correctly!

We run into job sites where flooring folks will connect their planer to a the same 110 leg and wonder "why things are funky.":cross:

 

[Sawdustguy]

Uh-oh. I can't believe something like this exists for purchasing. At least they state it being out-of-phase. I would stay away from this sort of application and do it correctly!

We run into job sites where flooring folks will connect their planer to a the same 110 leg and wonder "why things are funky.":cross:

Why is it not safe? It's no different than using a regular 220v line. The only thing I don't like about it is that the two outlets could be on opposite sides of the building.

 

[Sparky]

Why is it not safe?

Maybe "safe" was too strong. My concern is if the power is pulled off the same leg. Plugging into random sockets will give you a 50% chance of one leg or the other (without knowing) in a single phase, 240V home.

Depending upon how many amps they will be using (motor, heating element, etc?), it will not be good for the equipment nor the other loads in the house.

Again, depending upon the load, there could be a substantial drop or spike, which could harm the equipment - or, in the case of the floor sanders listed above - it will not run at all.

 

[Sean]

I think the site stated the device has a sensor so it will not work unless the plugs are out of phase.


I am only saying this cause we are in the DIY section: It is 160 for the cheapest model. If you need 220 on a regular basis, and unless you're going a long distance I think you would be better off running a 220 line. The only real expense is the wire, and it is not that difficult. I am not suggesting doing this unless you are completely confident.

Don't get killed, and don't burn down your house!

 

[CollinsBrew]

On the FAQ section of the page you linked to in the first post, it explains that the unit won't work unless you use two outlets that are out of phase. It indicates that with an amber light on the unit. It also says to use an extension cord if necessary.

 

[Sparky]

Ya, instead of being a smarty-pants, I read some of the documentation. 4600 watts continuous, 22k at peak. So, your looking at applications at 20amps MAX. Just hope you plug that thing in (2) 20amp outlets. Most people could not tell if their outlets are on a 20amp or 15amp feed.

A better solution is to call our company, and we will install the appropriate line

But, I agree, it is in the DIY section!

 

[SweetSounds]

When it comes right down to it, you can install a 240 breaker with a 240v receptacle right next to the panel. Then buy 100' of 8 gauge SJOW.

All you have to do is pull out the "240v extension" when you wanna brew. It would cost less than some of these type things, and would be safer...