100% Stainless Heating Element

[KevinP]

I had a feeling you would say that...

Well that defeats the purpose for many using electric systems.... One of the key reasons for going electric in my case was to eliminate the restrictions of a gas flame system and for consistent results...


So the question remains for those with a complete electric brew system, Is there a 220v ulwd element that will not rust to use for the boil kettle?

cleaning the base of the element works between brews but it would be nice not to have to worry about it.

But an electric boil would eliminate the fun of playing with FIRE :rockin:

Do people have consistency issues with fire?

I didn't think lwd was necessary for the boil. RIMS and direct mash heating sure but for boil? I haven't looked into it much so I digress and will continue playing with FIRE :rockin:

 

[augiedoggy]

Fwiw, my bk element is a camco and I have no problems with it at all. It gets the hop crud cleaned after brewing and then stored dry.

Yes but arent the camco elements ultra low watt density? is your element silver or dark gray? the dark gray ones are ulwd and are much less likely to scortch the wort. The regular element surface is hotter than the ulwd making it easy to burn if the wort isnt constantly moving over the surface.
I will never go back to fire again if I can help it... I can control the boil perfectly with my electric setup as well as the rate of evaporation.. plus I brew in my house in a spare bedroom.... Not a smart Idea with an outdoor propane burner.. temps make a huge difference in the beer... if the boil is too vigouruos you get too much evap not vigorous enough and not enough hop utilization.

 

[BREWHAEquipmentCo]

Yes but arent the camco elements ultra low watt density? is your element silver or dark gray? the dark gray ones are ulwd and are much less likely to scortch the wort. The regular element surface is hotter than the ulwd making it easy to burn if the wort isnt constantly moving over the surface.
I will never go back to fire again if I can help it... I can control the boil perfectly with my electric setup as well as the rate of evaporation.. plus I brew in my house in a spare bedroom.... Not a smart Idea with an outdoor propane burner.. temps make a huge difference in the beer... if the boil is too vigouruos you get too much evap not vigorous enough and not enough hop utilization.

The 'dark gray' I believe you are referring to is not indicative of watt density but is caused by annealing of the incoloy stainless, to make it pliable for bending. Camco uses a 'full anneal' process which send the entire element through an oven with an atmosphere. This anneals the entire assembly instead of just the bending area (like with BREWHA elements). The annealing creates an oxidized layer of something similar to chromium oxide or nickel oxide (although I am told the makeup of this layer is different than the spot anneal which is done in regular air). It also makes the surface slightly less smooth so that it is slightly harder to clean. For applications where cleaning the element between uses is desirable, this layer is not helpful and is better if minimized. The perfectly shiny elements are often coated after bending.

Watt density is determined by the total output, relative to the surface area of the heating sheath (length of the heating element*diameter*3.14). Take the total output of the heating element (at a given voltage) and divide it by its surface area. BREWHA elements are designed to be as low as, or lower watt density than the ULWD Camco elements.

 

[augiedoggy]

The 'dark gray' I believe you are referring to is not indicative of watt density but is caused by annealing of the incoloy stainless, to make it pliable for bending. Camco uses a 'full anneal' process which send the entire element through an oven with an atmosphere. This anneals the entire assembly instead of just the bending area (like with BREWHA elements). The annealing creates an oxidized layer of something similar to chromium oxide or nickel oxide (although I am told the makeup of this layer is different than the spot anneal which is done in regular air). It also makes the surface slightly less smooth so that it is slightly harder to clean. For applications where cleaning the element between uses is desirable, this layer is not helpful and is better if minimized. The perfectly shiny elements are often coated after bending.

Watt density is determined by the total output, relative to the surface area of the heating sheath (length of the heating element*diameter*3.14). Take the total output of the heating element (at a given voltage) and divide it by its surface area. BREWHA elements are designed to be as low as, or lower watt density than the ULWD Camco elements.

I stand corrected...with that said all the "dark gray" ones Ive seem to come across have been advertised as low watt or ultra low watt and I have yet to see a shiny silver ultra low watt density one so I made an incorrect assumption....I was also under the assuption the dull dark surface resisted mineral buildup better than the other surfaces and this was related.
my units are the long ripple elements and while my boil kettle element doesnt seem to rust at the base my HLT does..
Does this change the Other point I was making about the shorter non ultra low watt density ones being hotter at the surface where they contact the wort?

 

[BREWHAEquipmentCo]

I stand corrected...with that said all the "dark gray" ones Ive seem to come across have been advertised as low watt or ultra low watt and I have yet to see a shiny silver ultra low watt density one so I made an incorrect assumption....I was also under the assuption the dull dark surface resisted mineral buildup better than the other surfaces and this was related.
my units are the long ripple elements and while my boil kettle element doesnt seem to rust at the base my HLT does..
Does this change the Other point I was making about the shorter non ultra low watt density ones being hotter at the surface where they contact the wort?

Yes, a shorter element with a given diameter and wattage will be hotter at the surface than a longer element with the same diameter and wattage as the heat generated will be dissipated through a smaller surface area and be more intense.

 

[Bensiff]

I had a feeling you would say that...



Well that defeats the purpose for many using electric systems.... One of the key reasons for going electric in my case was to eliminate the restrictions of a gas flame system and for consistent results...





So the question remains for those with a complete electric brew system, Is there a 220v ulwd element that will not rust to use for the boil kettle?



cleaning the base of the element works between brews but it would be nice not to have to worry about it.

Just the brewmation one as far as I know. Otherwise coat the base of the camco with high temp NSF silicone as many have done without ever getting rust.

 

[augiedoggy]

Just the brewmation one as far as I know. Otherwise coat the base of the camco with high temp NSF silicone as many have done without ever getting rust.

thanks I have read about the silicone and may go that route. a touch of olive oil seemed to stop it in my brew pot but did not work for my hlt where the rust had already started before application so who knows... it may work if I replace the element.

 

[dstar26t]

I received the Heet-o-matic 1500W element. It is in fact all stainless. The element will fit through a 1" FNPT x 2" Triclamp from Mile Hi Distilling. I had one from Brewers Hardware but it would not fit through. The element seems to be of good quality. When I get everything welded up I'll post another review.

 

[augiedoggy]

I bought one of these for $18 shipped, its 4500w and has a brass base... it works faster than my old ulwd 4500w unit...
still use the ULWD for the brew kettle.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200909059093?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Poobah58]

Looks like you can buy 3 SS elements from Brewha for $55 each with free shipping!

 

[Poobah58]

Turns out the "order 3 elements and get free shipping" is BS! Went thru the process and when you select shipping you get charged $30! WTF???

 

[Beek]

I don't think Brewha is a company I will ever be doing business with.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[augiedoggy]

Turns out the "order 3 elements and get free shipping" is BS! Went thru the process and when you select shipping you get charged $30! WTF???

Well isnt that just the shipping they charge for 1? I understood it to be free shipping for each additional element...

I'm telling you the one I linked above are a damn good deal they are only 4500w and the base is brass but its only $13 plus $5 shipping.... the brewha ones are not ultra low watt density either so U'm not sure how they will work for the boil kettle without imparting a burnt flavor (scortching the wort)

 

[KevinP]

Turns out the "order 3 elements and get free shipping" is BS! Went thru the process and when you select shipping you get charged $30! WTF???

Its not BS. I have these on their way to me now. Email them.

 

[spkguitar]

I bit the bullet and blew the money on the Brewmation ones. My wallet is not happy, but I am.

 

[Poobah58]

Just heard from Brewha. If you select "free pickup from Vancouver" there will be no charge (and it will get shipped)...

EDIT: The site is fixed. Free shipping is now a drop down item. Just ordered mine!!!

 

[ejluttmann]

Anyone know the length of the Brewha elements? I'm not finding that info on their site.

 

[lilrokz06]

Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[dstar26t]

Anyone know the length of the Brewha elements? I'm not finding that info on their site.

See post #43 and #67 in this thread

 

[ejluttmann]

See post #43 and #67 in this thread

Doh! Thanks... perfect size for my kettle.

 

[Bobby_M]

It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.

I will help! As long as they are ulwd and 5500 watts. Well at least 5500 watts.

 

[jpalarchio]

It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.

Excellent!

 

[kcmobrewer]

I'm in as well Bobby

 

[November]

I am down for three when they come in.

 

[Bensiff]

Nice, I know a few guys who might be interested including myself. I'll make sure to spread the word in thanks for your willingness to roll the dice in $10k. Any word on specs and price?

 

[ThreeDogsNE]

It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.

I'm in for at least 4. Is there any way to get an alert when they become available?

 

[Cioffi]

It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.

Any info at this point on cost, etc.?

 

[Bobby_M]

Under $40

 

[Cioffi]

Under $40

Works for me!