100% Stainless Heating Element

[NathPowe]

Looking forward to the elements you're bringing to market Bobby. Another question for you - any idea whether a guy be able to slightly bend your elements? I ask because I'm looking at a dual element 120V build and, as I'm sure you've seen on various threads, this type of setup often requires a little bending for the elements to fit.

Thanks for the info and cheers.

 

[truckmann]

Glad I stumbled in here. I'll keep an eye out for these Bobby. I'm slowly building toward converting to all electric.

 

[505-Brewer]

No, you can either get the 8" 120v/2000w or the 12" 240v/5500w (which can also be run on 120v for 1375w).

Need to build two HERMS systems. One using 26 gal pots and the other using 3 55 gal drums. Definitely want to use trip-clamps for maximum flexibility. Will have access to 120v@15A and 240V@50A power.

What would be best elements for each. My understanding is 2 240/5500W for the large setup. Should I use just one for 20 gal batches or go with a 120V one?

Cheers

 

[augiedoggy]

Need to build two HERMS systems. One using 26 gal pots and the other using 3 55 gal drums. Definitely want to use trip-clamps for maximum flexibility. Will have access to 120v@15A and 240V@50A power.

What would be best elements for each. My understanding is 2 240/5500W for the large setup. Should I use just one for 20 gal batches or go with a 120V one?

Cheers

1 240v element for the smaller setup... 120v is too small and less than ideal for everything but rims tubes in most cases.

 

[Bobby_M]

Need to build two HERMS systems. One using 26 gal pots and the other using 3 55 gal drums. Definitely want to use trip-clamps for maximum flexibility. Will have access to 120v@15A and 240V@50A power.

What would be best elements for each. My understanding is 2 240/5500W for the large setup. Should I use just one for 20 gal batches or go with a 120V one?

Cheers

Honestly, if I were trying to heat anything over 15 gallons at a time, I'd run double 5500w elements

 

[augiedoggy]

Honestly, if I were trying to heat anything over 15 gallons at a time, I'd run double 5500w elements

good point.

 

[Bensiff]

Honestly, if I were trying to heat anything over 15 gallons at a time, I'd run double 5500w elements

Agreed that above 10 gallon batches can benefit from more than 5500w. I have a 20 gallon stout setup. 5500w is plenty for the BK as it is heating from mash temps so it gets to a boil quickly and can easily hold a hard boil running at 60-70% of the time. However I wouldn't mind a faster heat up time in my HLT as I usually bring 15+ gallons up to 170 from ground water temp. For 55 gallon drums Id want at least 3 elements for the HLT to save time.

 

[TrickyDick]

Can you post a picture of your element with the epoxy filled housing?


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[sethhobrin]

Does anyone know of any 240V elements that are around 2000watts and stainless? My setup is all 240V.

 

[ejluttmann]

Does anyone know of any 240V elements that are around 2000watts and stainless? My setup is all 240V.

Just make a special 240v plug adapter that just wires the 120v 2000w element to one of the hot wires, plus ground and neutral. I'm assuming your 240v outlet has two hot, one ground and one neutral like mine does. That's basically how I wire my 120v pump.


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[jpalarchio]

Does anyone know of any 240V elements that are around 2000watts and stainless? My setup is all 240V.

The element that started this thread was found to be about 2500W @ 220V.

 

[augiedoggy]

The element that started this thread was found to be about 2500W @ 220V.

I think they tested out to be actually about 2200w at 220v....

 

[jleiii]

Here's where I'm at. The 5500 watt I was about to pull the trigger on was a pre-spec'd design that measured 14". It would have been fine for direct installs in most kegs and pots, but I knew it wouldn't fit with my new HotRod heat stick hardware included. If I'm going to go with a large quantity to keep the cost down, I wanted it to fit more applications while still keeping it LWD. Long story short, I had to spec out a new design at 12" long with an offset so that the bundle of four tubes (the pair and the foldback) will be centered on the mount bushing. Why? It will fit our RIMS tube like a glove also.

So, the same element will now be able to fit direct installs, heat stick use, and RIMs use. As soon as they get the design drawn up and quoted for me, I'll know the ETA.

At this time, I'm not going after an ULWD ripple design because I anticipate the LWD of around 120 watts per sq.in. to be fine for boils.

Bobby,
Any update on availability for your new elements? I'm very anxious for the 5500w version, as it may be the only one that fits a smaller pot. It's the last piece I need to go fully electric!

 

[Bobby_M]

The unit was been spec'd and the purchase order is in. It should be 2 weeks, but I wouldn't hold my breath based on my interactions so far.

 

[truckmann]

Got my order in for a new element and a HotRod kit! Looking forward to getting to electric brewing sooner than the finances initially were going to allow. Now to see how cheap I can build a controller to work with my Brewbit for HLT heating and boil control.

Wired and ready!

 

[jimyson]

Ordered the element today!


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[jleiii]

Mine shipped yesterday! Now I need to get my spa panel, and install it!

 

[truckmann]

This looks fun... Now to build a controller.

 

[stevehaun]

Very cool!

 

[jleiii]

I got my kettle setup with Bobby's new 5500 watt element, the silversolder tri-clover fitting and element cord relief over the weekend, and it was a smashing success.

This setup fit into a 12" pot perfectly! I was pretty sure that with the tri-clover fitting it would fit, and there is about 3/4" to spare. Brewed a hefe on Sunday, and could not be happier with my setup. In my 8 gallon pot this beast will heat up fast. On 100% it was up over 100F by the time I had it filled to the top with 60F water. Water flow was slow, as it's from a humidifier tap in my cold water line, with 1/4 OD tubing and carbon filter, but was not more than 5 min.

My power control has excellent range with this element. Having an electronics background and having worked with these controls before I know that the range rarely covers the full turn of the knob control, and most don't even turn on until you get to around 50%. I found that you can buy a "reverse logarithmic taper" potentiometer, and that gives a far better operational range. I used the same thing on a blower for a bronze melting furnace and was hopeful enough that it would work here too, so I bought 2 back then. Glad I did. Good rolling boil at about 25%, and easily tweaked instead of too much or too little.

Great products Bobby!

 

[Smellyglove]

I've been looking for a 1500W 240V SS element but I can't find one in the webshops mentioned. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't think anyone has a 1500w. The issue is that there are certain order minimums to make the numbers work out and I don't think I'd sell enough to make it. Most people have a 20amp circuit in their kitchen. If you don't, you can always run a 12 gauge extension cord to a spot where you do have a 20 amp, assuming that is less than 50 ft away.

 

[karalaok]

Hi truckmann

What is the size of the tri clamp on that hot rod?

 

[truckmann]

Hi truckmann

What is the size of the tri clamp on that hot rod?

I'm 99% sure it's a 2" TC. That's what was spec'd early on when it was prototyped and I haven't seen anyone say it ever changed. I can measure it when I get home to be 100% sure.

 

[truckmann]

I've been looking for a 1500W 240V SS element but I can't find one in the webshops mentioned. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Can I ask why you need it to be 240v instead of using 120v?

 

[Bobby_M]

It is a 2" tc.

 

[Blktre]

My control panel has three 240v circuits and one 120v circuit. A SS 240v 2500w element would be nice for my RIMS. I could rewire my RIMS circuit to 120v and run Bobby's 240v 5500w SS element but that would be pain. I also question if doing that what the performance would be like doing 20g batches.

 

[jleiii]

My control panel has three 240v circuits and one 120v circuit. A SS 240v 2500w element would be nice for my RIMS. I could rewire my RIMS circuit to 120v and run Bobby's 240v 5500w SS element but that would be pain. I also question if doing that what the performance would be like doing 20g batches.

My custom panel uses 120/240. I have a pair of contactors and a selector switch on my RIMS element for 'high' and 'low' operation. Low is 120, high is 240, 1375/4500. A simple flip of the switch to select. The boil kettle is strictly 240. This is a 5 gal system, but given the performance with 5 gal, it could easily do 10, maybe 20. But, I've only got 1 brew done with the electric kettle so far.

The RIMS on 120 was hard pressed to do a mash out, and on 240 nearly flashes the wort to steam. I may need to add a second variable control for this. It did however bring the water to strike temp in record time, compared to propane.
I also use the RIMS for a bottle washing station but did not have my 240 circuit installed then, and the best I could do on 120v was about 135F. I expect the 240 RIMS will get me to 160 in no time.

 

[Blktre]

My custom panel uses 120/240. I have a pair of contactors and a selector switch on my RIMS element for 'high' and 'low' operation. Low is 120, high is 240, 1375/4500. A simple flip of the switch to select. The boil kettle is strictly 240. This is a 5 gal system, but given the performance with 5 gal, it could easily do 10, maybe 20. But, I've only got 1 brew done with the electric kettle so far.

The RIMS on 120 was hard pressed to do a mash out, and on 240 nearly flashes the wort to steam. I may need to add a second variable control for this. It did however bring the water to strike temp in record time, compared to propane.
I also use the RIMS for a bottle washing station but did not have my 240 circuit installed then, and the best I could do on 120v was about 135F. I expect the 240 RIMS will get me to 160 in no time.

I do think 4500w on 240v is way to much for a RIMS regardless of flow rate over the element. At least for my untested RIMS. Its a 1.5" TC tube but the ports are reduced to 1/2" to accommodate my QD's. I do have some 1.5" TC x 3/4" fittings I could switch out to if my flow rate gets bottled up at the fittings.

I really like your hi/low switch. That's a good idea especially when you can run strike water through the RIMS to help out the element in the HLT for faster heating times.

For cleaning I have a keg washer running a 240v 5500w element on 120v hooked to a Love controller that uses a 25 amp SSR. Im only heating about 7g of PBW or caustic to 160* in about 20 minutes starting with a room temp solution. But that's for another thread.

 

[Smellyglove]

Can I ask why you need it to be 240v instead of using 120v?

My electrical service is 230v. I live in Europe.