100 percent munich 1

[frontiercdk]

Hello,

I am a fairly new brewer. I am trying to get to know what tastes are provided by the various base malts. I am using the same recipe as stated below but exchanging malt, and malts only. I have completed a pilsner. I have the two row finishing up fermentation today, and added yeast to the Munich version last Saturday. I didn't really care for the pilsner... I figure the two row will be similar. I am hoping the Munich will be better. Has anyone done a Munich like this before?, am I going to be disappointed?

15 gallon all grain

25lbs Weyermann munich 1 (7.1srm)
1 oz Warrior (18.9%alpha) 60 min
1.5 oz Halleertour (2.7%alpha) 15 min
Safeale 05

Ferment 59degrees 7 days
71 degrees 7days
crash to 32 degrees for 4 days.
Keg and force carb,

 

[iijakii]

Boy... 15gal batches for experiments.

 

[stpug]

I imagine the pilsner and 2row are just "plain" tasting. Lightly bittered, yellow, and fizzy - and hazy from the yeast. Not to mention, US05 does nothing for the malt character - if anything, it helps mask the malt character.

As far as Munich I is concerned, at least you'll have some malt character that comes through, and the color will be more in the light amber realm. Otherwise, don't judge this (or the other) malts based on your trial runs. You really need to have an experience with different yeasts to get the most malt character from those malts - US05 is just not a great candidate for that.

 

[JonM]

The Munich is wildly different from pilsner and two row. (I just brewed a very similar recipe to yours a couple months ago.) An all Munich beer is insanely malty, and in a very good way.

What didn't you like about the Pilsner?

 

[Owly055]

I've brewed quite a few beers with all or nearly all Munich......... It's a great malt to have in your collection! It definitely will be distinctly different from pilsner or two row.

Your hop additions are outrageously light (in my opinion) for your batch size. I can't imagine you getting much hop flavor or aroma..........If I were brewing this, I'd probably at least double the Hallertau and move it to 5 minutes...... I brew 2.5 gallon batches, and I don't recall ever using less than one ounce in a brew. That would be 6 ounces of hops in a 15 gallon brew... almost 2 1/2 times as much, even when brewing low IBU brews like this one. I often have twice that much in a brew...... or even more

You must not like hops much........ or I like them too much ;-) Any grain bill will produce a disappointing beer in my opinion with such a conservative hand with the hops.


H.W.

 

[brew_ny]

all Munich is great if you like Munich (which I do) but some of the folks I share with

did not it was too intensely malty for them

your recipe looks fine to me

all the best

S_M

 

[masskrug]

Subbing just to see how this turns out. 25 pounds of grain and 2 oz of hops? Sounds mal-ty.

 

[JonM]

Yes. I did not notice that first time 'round. I'd leave the Warrior as is, but double or even triple the late addition of Hallertau.

 

[Jaybird]

Boy... 15gal batches for experiments.

I was thinking the same thing. But who am I to say...

Lets see picts of this "new brewer" 15 gallon batch system. Sounds like you jumped in head first!

Recipe looks good. Not sure if I would be using a US05 for it but hey, that's just me.

Cheers
Jay

 

[JonM]

Know what's great with Munich? Striesselspalt or Saphir.

 

[frontiercdk]

wow!

Thanks for responding, I didn't expect this many comments. I built the system over the last six months. Hell, I liked building the thing as much as brewing...almost. Any way, probably right on brewing 15 gallon experimental batches (2 much). But I figured the recipes were pretty cheap and I have a lot of beer drinking friends that will drink anything (especially free). "stpug" hit the nail on the head " I imagine the pilsner and 2row are just "plain" tasting. Lightly bittered, yellow, and fizzy - and hazy from the yeast". how did you know about the haze?

I used beersmith making the recipe and its calculates the IBU to be 25.6 What do you think would be more appropriate? somewhere in the mid 30's?

In the future, what yeast would y'all suggest?

I will try to post a pic of my stand. I messed with it "forever"! these are my first couple batches on it.

 

[frontiercdk]

Here it is with no hoses

 

[Rhaop]

Thats an awesome brew stand, like how it stands to save room for storage [emoji482]

 

[Onkel_Udo]

wow!
how did you know about the haze?

I used beersmith making the recipe and its calculates the IBU to be 25.6 What do you think would be more appropriate? somewhere in the mid 30's?

In the future, what yeast would y'all suggest?
QUOTE]

On the Haze, US-05 does not like to floc out without help or lots of patience.

On the haps it is not about the IBU's for the most part it is about the flavor additions...or lack there of. Warrior is a high AA, clean bittering hop and probably sufficient (though upping it by 15% would not hurt). What you could benefit from are 5 minute or flame-out (or hop stand or dry hop) additions. They have little effect on the IBU's but a huge effect on the aroma and flavor.

Yeast is going to depend on what you want. If you have excellent fermentation temperature control, I am all about S-04. Nottingham is nice as well. Once you go into liquid yeasts and starters the world is you oyster.

 

[stpug]

wow!

Thanks for responding, I didn't expect this many comments. I built the system over the last six months. Hell, I liked building the thing as much as brewing...almost. Any way, probably right on brewing 15 gallon experimental batches (2 much). But I figured the recipes were pretty cheap and I have a lot of beer drinking friends that will drink anything (especially free). "stpug" hit the nail on the head " I imagine the pilsner and 2row are just "plain" tasting. Lightly bittered, yellow, and fizzy - and hazy from the yeast". how did you know about the haze?

I used beersmith making the recipe and its calculates the IBU to be 25.6 What do you think would be more appropriate? somewhere in the mid 30's?

In the future, what yeast would y'all suggest?

I will try to post a pic of my stand. I messed with it "forever"! these are my first couple batches on it.

Similar to what was mentioned above, US05 is a medium flocculating yeast strain which means it will remain in suspension for longer than a high flocculating yeast. I have found that it requires considerable time to fully clear in a keg on it's own, or you need to fine the beer to encourage it to clear. Others claim that it drops bright for them in a short time.

As for clear, yellow, fizzy beer: 100% pils or US 2row without some interesting late/dry hop additions or characterful yeast strain will yield a relatively plain beer. It's still beer and probably something the BudMillerCoors (BMC) crowd could appreciate.

As for IBUs, I would build a recipe around a style you're interested in with the goal of using 95+% base malt in order to have a handle on what that base malt contributes to a beer. In the case of US2row, you could try a pale ale or blonde beer with a low percent of character malts (even with us05). In the case of pilsner, a kolsch can be very rewarding with 100% pils or even with a very low percent of character malt (different yeast might be in order here to help accentuate the grainy pils character). As for munich, a munich dunkle at 100% or small percent of character malt with a yeast strain that enhances malt character would yield a wonderful result (you could go lager strain, or ale strain for a pseudo-lager effect). Lots of options here.

Nice stand BTW!!

 

[frontiercdk]

Thanks for the input.

I have good temp control for fermentation, so i will try the 04 and maybee a little different malt addition on the next batch.

I am a little confused as to when to add my late additions. I flame out and then recirculate through my chiller (with no water running through it) for 10 minutes to sterilize it. Then i turn on the water and whirlpool until the temp is 70 (usually about 15 or 20 minutes). I let it settle for fifteen minutes then transfer to the fermenter. Would you count the 10 min i use to sterlize when figuring additions?

 

[stpug]

Thanks for the input.

I have good temp control for fermentation, so i will try the 04 and maybee a little different malt addition on the next batch.

I am a little confused as to when to add my late additions. I flame out and then recirculate through my chiller (with no water running through it) for 10 minutes to sterilize it. Then i turn on the water and whirlpool until the temp is 70 (usually about 15 or 20 minutes). I let it settle for fifteen minutes then transfer to the fermenter. Would you count the 10 min i use to sterlize when figuring additions?

For late additions, the possibilities are numerous. Given your setup, I would aim to add them to the wort after the chiller sterilization and when you begin your whirlpool (or you could add them about 5 minutes into sterilization to get a little more hot wort contact with them). After testing the process, adjust as desired for future batches and different styles.

 

[Owly055]

Thanks for the input.

I have good temp control for fermentation, so i will try the 04 and maybee a little different malt addition on the next batch.

I am a little confused as to when to add my late additions. I flame out and then recirculate through my chiller (with no water running through it) for 10 minutes to sterilize it. Then i turn on the water and whirlpool until the temp is 70 (usually about 15 or 20 minutes). I let it settle for fifteen minutes then transfer to the fermenter. Would you count the 10 min i use to sterlize when figuring additions?

As you are using an internal chiller obviously.... plate or counterflow, you have it made...... A hopback is probably the best solution rather than whirlpool.... circulate past the hop back to sterilize, then through it. The hopback allows you to run hot wort through your flavor and aroma hops, and immediately into the chiller so nothing is lost.

Personally I use an immersion chiller, and usually drop the temp to about 160, then whirlpool at that temp.......Lacking a hopback (If I were you), I'd simply recycle back into the boil kettle until I hit the desired temp, shut off the cooling water, toss in the hops, and use the pump to whirlpool.

Hop additions late in the boil, and additions below boil temp add a lot of flavor and aroma. I'm kind of a hop extremist...... 2 ounces to 5 gallons would be a bare minimum, I often go twice or even 3 times that, and have been known fairly frequently to do an ounce to the gallon. Hallertau is a wonderful hop, with great flavor, but it's fairly "tame". I use a lot of it.

One of my better beers was a Dunkle using Northern Brewer and Hallertau. It was a 2.5 gallon brew, and was based on Munich 10, with a little CR60 for color and flavor. I bittered with one of my favorite hops........ Northern Brewer...1/4 ounce at 60, and split an ounce of Hallertau between 5 min and 1 min, and fermented it with 34/70 dry lager yeast. It was a wonderful brew!! In the context of your 15 gallon brews, it would be an ounce and a half of Northern Brewer, and 6 ounces of Hallertau.

I use Northern Brewer a lot as it is a good bittering hop, with noble character... It compliments Hallertau and other noble hops well, and will stand entirely on it's own to make a great beer as both bittering and flavor / aroma. If I was allowed only one hop, this would be my choice without hesitation.......


H.W.

 

[frontiercdk]

That makes sense. I add the late addition at 15 before flame out,10 min sanitizing, 15 to 20 cooling, and 15 to settle. That would represents around 30 minutes my late addition is subjected to boiling or near boiling temps. no wonder I am not getting aroma and flavor (didn't think of that before). I will move them to 5 min until end of sanitation and see what happens.

thanks again for all the help!