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Tough to say, if you're really concerned about it stop down to Home Depot and grab some 5gal paint strainer bags for 4 bucks. They aren't as fine as some of the swiss voile, but they work great.



Unless the holes are really big, chances are it'll hold the grain fine - but you'll have a ton of debris in the pot from all the small particles.


Ok, I'll try that thanks!


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Ok, that carb setup I'd pretty sweet. You should totally roll into the local brewpub with a couple of 2-liters and a handheld CO2 bike pump instead of a growler. It's nice that you can just squeeze the bottle because then you don't need a purging method like that newfangled growler setup ive been seeing around the interwebs.

This is also nice because I've been wondering about a good way to carb a hard cider... Do you think you could bottle from that without losing all the carbing?


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Ok, that carb setup I'd pretty sweet. You should totally roll into the local brewpub with a couple of 2-liters and a handheld CO2 bike pump instead of a growler. It's nice that you can just squeeze the bottle because then you don't need a purging method like that newfangled growler setup ive been seeing around the interwebs.

This is also nice because I've been wondering about a good way to carb a hard cider... Do you think you could bottle from that without losing all the carbing?


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There was a recent article here on using 2 liter bottles as portable kegs. If you did that, you could fill glass bottles in any of the ways typically used for filling from kegs (i.e., counter pressure fill, Blichmann's Beer Gun, etc.) The article is here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/Plastic-bottles-used-as-mini-kegs.html

I would think you would also have at least some success just getting everything ICE cold (including the glass bottles) and very carefully pouring out of the 2 liter to fill. You'd lose some carbonation, but if you overcarb to compensate, I'd bet you could make it work.

It's something I think I'll play around with, though I'm kinda the engineer dork who prefers (usually) the more complex solution, lol.
 
Brewing the famous Ginger Ale recipe from this forum and I tried the "BIAB and stick the pot in the oven" technique. Brought everything to temperature and warmed the oven up to 170 degrees (the lowest setting it has), then put the pot in the oven and switched over to warm. Ended up loosing 1 degree over the 60 minutes and had 77% efficiency. :mug:
 
Has anyone thought of using this pretzel barrel as a fermenter? I searched this thread but sometimes I just use the wrong keyword.
I threw away an empty one last week, but did a volume check out of curiosity. It's a perfect 2 gallons. When my currently full barrel is empty, I believe I'll try a 1.5 gallon batch of apfelwein. It's PET plastic by the way.
813.jpg
 
Has anyone thought of using this pretzel barrel as a fermenter? I searched this thread but sometimes I just use the wrong keyword.
I threw away an empty one last week, but did a volume check out of curiosity. It's a perfect 2 gallons. When my currently full barrel is empty, I believe I'll try a 1.5 gallon batch of apfelwein. It's PET plastic by the way.
813.jpg

I would like to make a bottling bucket out of one. Drill a hole towards the bottom and boom !!
 
Wooo! Took my beers to a beer club meeting tonight, got to try a few and had more than a few try mine. Got a LOT of great feedback, most of it completely valid and right along with what I expected, but also alot of really constructive points and verification that I'm actually making "great" beer.

Feels good.

Also, drank probably way too many Brewfarm Funk #2's. Love, love, LOVE that wild american ale.

:rockin::rockin::rockin:
 
Checked my brews today when I got home and the kraeusen was gone from both of them they have been fermenting for 5 days. Is it ok to leave them in the primary for another week or two?

Thanks to all of you have provided advice through my first brew. I can't wait to taste them.
 
A week or 2 is fine. A month or 2 is fine too. I've heard of people going longer than that successfully but that is about as far as I feel comfortable pushing it.
 
Two weeks minimum, Doc - I usually run 3 weeks, but have been known to cut it earlier if I need some yeast for another beer. At the end of the time, toss is in the fridge for a day or two to cold-crash it. Then it's just rack and bottle!
 
Thanks fellas I was wondering because we are headed out on vacation for a week.

I just saw that mini kegs hold a 1 gallon and I think it would be easier to deal with than bottleing, anyone tried it and how did it work? I was thinking that doing natural carbination and gravity pour would be easy.

Thoughts?
 
Hey Doc,

The minikeg thing has been on my radar for a while to try out, I just haven't had a chance. There's some great youtube video's out there explaining about them, cleaning them, as well as the issues you may face.

A quick run-down for you:
1) If you look around your local stores, you may be able to get a keg (with beer in it) for slightly more than the cost of a new one.
2) You can't use Heinekin or Newcastle kegs, they must have the pressure vent on top. Good examples of these are like Bell Oberon in the minikeg or Spaten in the minikeg.
3) Cleaning them can be a pain.
4) You will need to use 1/3rd the priming sugar for carb - no more.
5) The beer will oxidize once the vent is open, otherwise you won't be able to get any through the spigot. Maybe not an issue if you'll be finishing it within a day or so, but after a week it'll have an off flavor..


So - knowing that - I'll suggest an alternative. Sadly, this is ANOTHER experiment that I've yet to play with, so this falls into the realm of "speculation", though I can say due to research it's fairly popular in England with cask style beers - that's the polypin.

The Polypin is essentially a plastic, collapsible 1gal cubetainer (like a square box/bag of wine) that can be primed (1/3rd the amount of sugar again) and allowed to pressurize, then poured from and allow the "pin" to collapse as the beer leaves, so you don't get oxidation issues.

Polypins are more aligned with cask style ales (low carbonation, English style beers) than American ales, but I don't see anything that would stop you from experimenting with them if you're curious.

I've amassed quite an amount of info on them if you're curious, I'd be happy to pass on some links.

All else fails, you're looking at 9-10ish 12oz bottles, which isn't bad at all to rip through. Sugar cubes might be a great substitution to batch priming with such a small amount.

In other news -

After having a few :D of the Brewfarm Funk#2, I couldn't help myself. After doing a fair amount of poking and playing with Brewtarget, I think I've got something close enough to take a swing with. That's going to get placed into the queue for sure.. Mmmmmm Belgian Saison.
 
BTW - while I'm thinking about it, all the small batch guys should go check out the article on the front page about using a base mash and then steeping different grains in the pot to create two separate beers from one base mash.

Great article, gave me lots of ideas from the perspective of creating two very different beers through a variety of techniques in nearly the same time I'd be doing just one beer on the stove top.

Can't wait to play around with some of those concepts in the future! Check it out if you haven't already had a chance:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/Increasing-Pipeline-Diversity.html

:rockin:
 
I would like to make a bottling bucket out of one. Drill a hole towards the bottom and boom !!


I've been thinking about using something similar for a 2-gal sized bottling bucket. The only pre-made bottling bucket I've found that size online is 9 bucks, plus 11 for shipping, so $20 total. I know I can get a bucket (or plastic can/jar like that one) for cheap, and the spigot assembly is like $4-5...

How hard is it to put it together? Obviously easy to do... That the wrong question. "How do you put it together?" would be a better question. Drill the hole to match the size, but then do you need any kind of caulk or rubber grommet to make a good seal to keep from leaking? I'd like to give this a try...


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If you get the right spigot - the RED one - it actually comes with two gaskets on the spigot, so you put one on the outside of the bottle, and one on the inside, then screw it hand tight. Test for leaks and use!
 
I like doing 1 gallon batches for smash beers to get a feel for a hop I haven't used before. Or if I have a really stupid idea that I wanna try.

Example, right now I feel like **** due to a cold. I think I'm gonna make something hearty like a brown ale with beef/ bouilion cubes because, it's 1 gallon.
 
If you get the right spigot - the RED one - it actually comes with two gaskets on the spigot, so you put one on the outside of the bottle, and one on the inside, then screw it hand tight. Test for leaks and use!


Thx, sounds easy enough! I'll look for the red one, then...



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Thx, sounds easy enough! I'll look for the red one, then...
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For the sake of clarity, this is the one I'm referring to - notice it's got two gaskets on it.

The red tip is sized at 3/8", and with a short section of vinyl tubing mates up perfectly with a bottling wand.

841227-2.jpg
 
I've been thinking about using something similar for a 2-gal sized bottling bucket. The only pre-made bottling bucket I've found that size online is 9 bucks, plus 11 for shipping, so $20 total. I know I can get a bucket (or plastic can/jar like that one) for cheap, and the spigot assembly is like $4-5...

Yep, I get my small buckets with gasketed lid from my supermarket (Safeway in my case) for free. They are 2 gallon icing buckets. Drill the hole for a spigot and you are done.. BAM!!!
 
For the sake of clarity, this is the one I'm referring to - notice it's got two gaskets on it.

The red tip is sized at 3/8", and with a short section of vinyl tubing mates up perfectly with a bottling wand.

841227-2.jpg

Comes in blue also, I put 3 into buckets already and my lhbs sells these for couple bucks apiece. Like sumbrewindude says, make sure it has 2 gaskets or itll do nothing but make a mess.
 
I am wondering if any I you guys have an extract recipe for a low ABV hoppy ale?

I think it would be good for drinking all afternoon big hops and low ABV.


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I am wondering if any I you guys have an extract recipe for a low ABV hoppy ale?

I think it would be good for drinking all afternoon big hops and low ABV.

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I'd go with Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde and late hop the snot out of it. It's 4%ABV and tasted great when I made it, then I reworked it for my AZB to boost it to 5.7%/55IBU to mellow out the alcohol. Now it's super tasty and sneaky as all heck - SWMBO has one and I have a great evening. :D

Need me to scale it (Centennial Blonde) to 1gal for you?

:mug:
 
Sumbrewindude if you would not mind that would be great!
Can you include your hop the snot out of it schedule?
Thanks man


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Sumbrewindude if you would not mind that would be great!
Can you include your hop the snot out of it schedule?
Thanks man

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Here's a quick rough stab *Forgive me Biermuncher!*

ex cent blond, adaptation with late hops - Blonde Ale
=================================

Boil Size: 1.067 gal
Boil Time: 60min
Efficiency: 70%
OG: 10.2 P
FG: 2.6 P
ABV: 4.0%
Bitterness: 26.5 IBUs (Tinseth)
Color: 3 SRM (Morey)

Fermentables
=================================
Name Type Amount
Dry Extract (DME) - Extra Light Dry Extract 14.000 oz
Briess - Carapils Malt Grain 3.000 oz Steeped
Total grain: 1.062 lb

Hops
======================================
Name Alpha Amount Use Time Form IBU
Cascade 6.0% 0.125 oz Boil 60.000 min Pellet 14.1
Centennial 10.5% 0.125 oz Boil 10.000 min Pellet 8.9
Cascade 6.0% 0.250 oz Boil 3.000 min Pellet 3.5
Centennial 10.5% 0.250 oz Boil 0.000 s Pellet 0.0

Cascade 6.0% 0.500 oz Dry Hop 4.000 day Pellet 0.0

Yeast
======================================
Name Type Form Amount Stage
Safale S-04 Ale Dry 0.388 oz Primary


A couple quick notes -
This is an adaptation of Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde, which is a kickass Blonde and I encourage everyone to make the original. That recipe uses staggered hop additions, where this one uses a more IPA style addition of FWH/Late, which is what I prefer in my own ales. On the "0" time addition, I pull from the element and let it coast down to 180F while stirring and hold for 10min, then procede to cool down fully.

The original recipe uses Notty yeast, which attenuates down pretty far. I usually use US05 instead as I don't have to keep it as cool. If you can keep it cool and don't mind a little less attenuation for less ABV, I put in S04 as it'll stay clean if you keep in in the low 60's for ferm temps. If you can't, sub back in US05 and realize you're going to up the ABV to 4.3 and dry it out a little.

Also, in order to keep the ABV low I dropped the DME to 14oz, if you use the full pound, the ABV raises to 4.5% with S04, and 4.9% with US05.

Good luck!

:mug:
 
Brewing tonight!

Who's with me? I've got a new session pale in the mashtun right now, trying some new things with water chemistry and some acidulated malt. Hoping to eat and get the kids scrubbed up while those enzymes attack the malt sugars...

:rockin:
 
I got to get my mind made up on a recipe before I brew again their are so many !!!! Anyone have a suggestion ?
 
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