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Brewed an IPA this weekend and using the Brewdemon conical I got. Seems very nice but I'll let you all know in a few weeks when I find out how it turns out.

How wide and tall is that conical?

I still haven't gotten mine yet and couldn't find dimensions on the Brewdemon site.
 
buy some new washers,cheapskate

Cheapskate?!! I wish! I've blown more money into this hobby than I ever planned... :)

The spigot leaks where the plastic handle rotates inside the spigot itself. Being vinyl, they don't seal incredibly well, and I don't feel like blowing a bunch of money on brass fittings to go into a plastic bucket...
 
How wide and tall is that conical?

I still haven't gotten mine yet and couldn't find dimensions on the Brewdemon site.

It's 17" tall from the bottom of the legs to the top of the cap, the fermentor is 9 1/8" in diameter, and at the widest point across to the outside of the legs is 10 1/2". Hope this helps you out Sammy.
 
Cheapskate?!! I wish! I've blown more money into this hobby than I ever planned... :)

The spigot leaks where the plastic handle rotates inside the spigot itself. Being vinyl, they don't seal incredibly well, and I don't feel like blowing a bunch of money on brass fittings to go into a plastic bucket...

If I'm reading him right, it is his handle that leaks. He just has a faulty spigot.
Sounds like it to me. They really aren't supposed to do that. I would spend the 2 bucks and buy a new plastic spigot. I do agree that getting brass for something like that is a little overkill.
 
Somebody asked me for my coffee wine recipe, since it's a 1 gallon recipe I thought I would post it here.

This recipe makes 1 gallon.

OG: 1.095-1.100
FG: 1.000 - 0.995
ABV: 12.7-14%

6 oz medium roast ground coffee, by weight. I used Dunkin' Donuts brand, because that's what I like to drink.
About 2 1/2 lbs of granulated table sugar. 2 lbs for fermenting, 1/4-1/2 lb for back sweetening.
2 tsps yeast nutrient
1 tsp yeast energizer
1 5 gram packet of Pasteur champagne dry yeast
1/2 tsp bentonite powder, optional
2 tsp vanilla extract

Pour the ground coffee into a 1 gallon container, or a couple of smaller pitchers, add hot water until total volume is 1 gallon. Hot water in this case is not boiling, or the typical 212F for brewing coffee. It's more like 140-150f. You aren't trying to brew the coffee with heat, just get some body out of it. If your tap water tastes good then just hot from the tap is fine. If not, heat some bottled or filtered water on the stove.

In a few minutes the ground coffee should have formed a kind of mat in the top of the container. Break that up and stir it into the liquid. Most of the coffee should drop into the bottom of the container.

Cap the container, or put aluminum foil over the top of the container. Let it sit at room temperature for approximately 24 hours. After about 24 hours, pour the coffee through a coffee filter. Leave the majority of the grounds in the bottom of the container, they will just make it take longer to pass through the filter. The point of this is to brew coffee with a low psuedo-tannin content. That's what makes coffee bitter, and coffee has a tendency for far to high levels of these to enter solution in the presence of alcohol. That's also why there aren't any coffee solids in the fermentor. Brewing long and at a low temperature extracts lots of coffee flavor compounds without extracting a significant amount of psuedo-tannins.

Pour the cold brewed coffee into your fermenting container. I would recommend a 2 gallon fermenting bucket. The caffeine causes even low flocculating yeast to foam more then is normal. Add sugar in two or three additions until your gravity is between 1.095 - 1.100. Make sure to fully dissolve each sugar addition before adding the next, and check the gravity before each addition. It's Ok to pour the sample back in. If you are off even a little in your volume you change the sugar needed in a batch this small fairly significantly. With the volume lost from the coffee solids left behind, and the water in them, you should get almost exactly 1 gallon of liquid after the sugar has been added.

Add the yeast nutrient, stir until dispersed. Aerate if you wish. You will probably have the shake the ish out of it to dissolve the sugar so aeration is going to be redundant. Pitch the yeast. Close your fermentor up with airlock.

In about twelve days add your bentonite powder if you are using any. In about 14 days, transfer off the yeast cake. Give it another week to be sure it's done fermenting. Add vanilla extract. It is recommended this be back sweetened, then pasteurized. Somewhere between 1/4 lb and 1/2 lb of sugar is about right, depending on taste.

Happy Brewing! :mug:
 
BikerBrewer said:
Brewed an IPA this weekend and using the Brewdemon conical I got. Seems very nice but I'll let you all know in a few weeks when I find out how it turns out.

I'm interested in these! I don't know about bigger batches yet for me but is it OK to ferment one gallon in there with all that headspace?
 
I brew one gallon batches all the time. They are great for experimenting without throwing your money and time down the drain if it turns out badly. All my untested brews start out that way. When I get it fine tuned, then they get brewed in larger batches.
 
I have been doing some 1 gallon stuff for the past 6 months. Right now I have a Irish red, Abbey ale and a cream all fermenting. In bottles I have a Pale ALe and a Lager. I had a BBQ for memorial day and it was great to have a variety of beers I brewed for everyone to try.

I do wanna get one of those brewdemon conicals.
 
He's still a cheapskate if he can't afford a new 2 buck spigot

I'm guessing you don't actually OWN a Honda, do ya...

The thing leaked since I got it. I figured it was cheap made-in-China crap. Next time I'm at the brew store I'll grab a new one.

By the way I'd rather be a cheapskate than an ******* any day of the week...
 
I'll steer this topic back on-course.

Using my new Millars Mill (yeah how about that - I bought a mill...) I obtained an 84.3% efficiency (according to Beersmith, which I also own) using BIAB for a 1.2 (which will have to get diluted to 1.5!) gallons. I used two pots, one with mash, one with sparge for dunking. I didn't use a grain bag for the mash. I put the grain bag in a bucket, dumped the mash into the bucket, then dunked the grains into the sparge water, pull the bag out, let drip, squeezed a smidge, then poured the sparge water into the bucket (which is marked so I can take pre-boil measurements.)
 
I just brewed my 2nd SMASH today, It's Vienna and Northern brewer. Lets see how it turns out.
 
Last brew I had more boil of than past brews, so tonight I over compensated I guess. Did not hit my OG, and dumped a bunch that didn't fit in my fermenter. I guess it will be a easy drinking session beer.
 
Last brew I had more boil of than past brews, so tonight I over compensated I guess. Did not hit my OG, and dumped a bunch that didn't fit in my fermenter. I guess it will be a easy drinking session beer.

You know, in a pinch, I've thrown overflow brew into an old 2 quart juice bottle.
 
1 gallon SMaSH recipes seems a treat for the simplicity and for training the palate. I keep brewing smaller and more frequently anyway so what are some good 1 gallon SMaSH recipes? Anyone?
 
1 gallon SMaSH recipes seems a treat for the simplicity and for training the palate. I keep brewing smaller and more frequently anyway so what are some good 1 gallon SMaSH recipes? Anyone?

I'm curious if anyone has ever found a smash recipe that wasn't good. Assuming you are using base malt and not doing something like a 100% crystal 60 grist.
 
JollyIsTheRoger said:
I'm curious if anyone has ever found a smash recipe that wasn't good. Assuming you are using base malt and not doing something like a 100% crystal 60 grist.

I think simple is underrated, I love SMaSH brews simple and as stated a great tool for training the palate

Indeed. If I can't screw it up, it's almost foolproof.
Pick a base malt, pick a hop, hard to get it wrong.
 
SMaSH's really work best when you make several of them. 2-row/Willamette, Maris Otter/Willamette, Vienna/Willamette and Munich/Willamette will tell you a lot about the different grains.

Then switch it around and do MO/Cascade, MO/Belma, MO/Nugget...

Then play with your hop schedule. Compare a 15 min addition to a 10 min to a whirlpool.
 
I just did a 2 row and tettnang, it's not finished yet but the preliminary tastes were terrible. Maybe i overdid the hops, maybe tettnang are just not as palatable as some of the other batches i've done.
 
Jsslack said:
I just did a 2 row and tettnang, it's not finished yet but the preliminary tastes were terrible. Maybe i overdid the hops, maybe tettnang are just not as palatable as some of the other batches i've done.

Do you use brewing software to calculate the IBU's? It is really easy to overdo it in a one gallon batch.
 
The first smash I made was American 2 row and cascade hops. 2 lbs 2row and cascade at 60,30,0 ibu to 30 using beersmith,Nottingham yeast. Primary for 2 weeks,cold crash 5 days and bottled carbed with 2tbs honey. It was amazing, every one I gave it to loved it. Smashes seem to be very pure and true to flavors.
 
This may seem like a dumb question. But I'm new to brewing n I was wondering what a "smash" is.
 
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