1" couplers or nuts?

[Bobby_M]

This is true. I scored a 1-5/8" punch set for $25 on ebay. I'm pretty psyched about that. The other way to make it work is to just use a grinder to take the boss off. If that bump out part isn't called a boss, what is it? Either way, you could grind it flush to the back of t he spud and just center it over a 1-3/8" hole. I suppose it's still slightly better than a locknut but both of those are better than a coupling in my opinion unless you're pulling a dimple.

 

[Tom_FL]

Thanks. Probably will go the locknut route for the element but will order a number of the 1/2" spuds for my other needs. I am itching to dig into a bit of this work this weekend. While I wait for my order from you ( to be placed tomorrow) can I get lock nuts at Home Depot?

 

[adivito]

On mine I used my step bit then took the die grinder and enlarged the hole a little. Nice tight fit and solders great. One thing to remember if you are using these for other connections is that they are only single sided

 

[ohararp]

Bobby, it would seem that if you were welding these in you would probably want to weld them on both the inside and outside?

 

[Bobby_M]

That's a good point. I only ever thought about soldering in which case the solder would probably ooze out the small gap inside and leave no nooks and crannies. If welded only on the outside, wort could get between the hole in the pot and the spud boss. Realistically, it would probably be no less sanitary than your typical non-back-gassed sugary weld. Also, threaded fittings are NOT sanitary anyway.

 

[HearthstoneBrewery]

Here's some inside pics of my soldered fitting. The solder does flow into the gap. Not quite a "sanitary" weld/solder, but close enough for a boil kettle.

 

[blakelyc]

Hi folks: sorry to revive an older thread, but I have a question.... Can this setup be used to somehow attach an interior fitting like a pickup tube? Tips was stated as a drawback in an earlier comment, but given the option I'd much rather use soldered spuds over weldless fittings everywhere I can.

Cheers,
-Blake

 

[kevreh]

I'd like to know this as well. I'm on the fence between the stub and the weldless fitting Bobby sells that comes with and elbow (so you can get within an 1/8" of the bottom of your kettle).

Only thing holding me back is no way to add a pickup tube or elbow to the spud on the inside(?)


Kevin

 

[DustBow]

no, it's a "1-way" fitting, can only screw stuff in from the outside, I doubt you could screw a nipple in far enough through the spud to get a female fitting to lock down tight enough on the nipple inside the pot.

 

[Bobby_M]

While the spuds are almost exactly like a half coupling, you can actually get about a half turn on the interior side because the smallest OD of a 1/2" NPT male fitting is just smaller than the spud's thread on the tank side. I wouldn't use it for an important mechanical connection but you could thread a compression fitting in and solder it to the spud if you wanted to.

If you need inside/outside threads though, The way I'd do it is to drill a 7/8" hole in the vessel, thread a 1/2" locknut all the way down a 1.5" long nipple and then solder the nut to the vessel and the nut to the nipple. Now you have 1/2" male threads on the inside and outside.... or just use my weldless bulkhead with integrated diptube.

 

[HearthstoneBrewery]

If you need inside/outside threads though, The way I'd do it is to drill a 7/8" hole in the vessel, thread a 1/2" locknut all the way down a 1.5" long nipple and then solder the nut to the vessel and the nut to the nipple. Now you have 1/2" male threads on the inside and outside.....

I originally tried that but couldn't get the solder right. The welding spud soldered on much better for me.

 

[kevreh]

While the spuds are almost exactly like a half coupling, you can actually get about a half turn on the interior side because the smallest OD of a 1/2" NPT male fitting is just smaller than the spud's thread on the tank side. I wouldn't use it for an important mechanical connection but you could thread a compression fitting in and solder it to the spud if you wanted to.

If you need inside/outside threads though, The way I'd do it is to drill a 7/8" hole in the vessel, thread a 1/2" locknut all the way down a 1.5" long nipple and then solder the nut to the vessel and the nut to the nipple. Now you have 1/2" male threads on the inside and outside.... or just use my weldless bulkhead with integrated diptube.

So, the locknut would be on the inside?

Actually, just this morning, I put an order in for your weldless bulkhead and a couple other things. I'm going to use weldless for the main drain then weld a spud for the 1/4" sightglass fitting and eventually a 1" spud for the future element.

Thanks and keep up the good work on all your videos!

Kevin

 

[Bobby_M]

I'd put the locknut outside the vessel. 1/2" locknuts are small enough that there won't be too much of a gap due to the curve of the pot or keg. Of course, the ideal thing would be to do a little machining work to put a concave on the back of the locknut, even if it's crudely done with a bench grinder, just to have a little more surface contact with the curved wall. However, I know it works as is if you use Harris #8.

 

[alien]

Yes, silver bearing solder with a reasonable %Ag makes it much easier to fill the gap especially with 1" locknuts.

 

[smoothlarryhughes]

The benefit (for me) of the coupler is that is is what I used to secure my weatherproof box. I dimpled the 1" coupler through a stainless blank, then dimpled through my kettle wall. Silver soldered everything up and leak tested. It makes for a 0 ohm ground lug connection in the box. It was quite a bit of work, but I really liked the strength of the coupler dimpled in the kettle.

I was prepared to tap the 1" coupler to NPS threads, but when I ran the camco 5500 ripple through it easily tightened all the way down to the rubber gasket.

Here's a picture showing what I'm talking about:

I know this is an old thread...but I was wondering...so you silver soldered the welding spud to the kettle and the box faceplate to the spud...then just screwed the camco into it with the stock rubber gasket? then just attached the box to the faceplate?

 

[HearthstoneBrewery]

That last photo you show is not my setup. Mine uses a 1/2" welding spud for the ball valve. The photo you show is a pipe coupler soldered to a keg and to a electrical faceplate.

 

[BxBrewer]

How about a tri clover fitting ? This setup is a dream for e kettles . Simply unclamp it to take the element out. Can also end cap it and use on a regular burner. Your not married to electric only.

 

[Bobby_M]

NICE! That's the first install pic I've seen.

 

[smoothlarryhughes]

How about a tri clover fitting ? This setup is a dream for e kettles . Simply unclamp it to take the element out. Can also end cap it and use on a regular burner. Your not married to electric only.

Nice! Do you have a link to the part I would nee for something like this?

 

[BxBrewer]

Brew hardware.com. The guy who posted just above you sells them.

 

[BxBrewer]

Here is one more.

 

[annoyingrob]

How about a tri clover fitting ? This setup is a dream for e kettles . Simply unclamp it to take the element out. Can also end cap it and use on a regular burner. Your not married to electric only.

After welding some 1" npt half couplers to my keg, I will agree with this. I wish I went tri clover so I could easily take them out and cap them off for propane, or just easily remove for cleaning.

 

[kopper]

How about a tri clover fitting ? This setup is a dream for e kettles . Simply unclamp it to take the element out. Can also end cap it and use on a regular burner. Your not married to electric only.

How did you attach the tri clover ferrule to the pot?