Controling hot break boil over

I am getting older and brewing a larger volume of beer. I am wondering how others control the wort hot break or boil over? I am still moving the wort off the heat and letting it settle back down before placing back on the heat source. At 65+ and over 14 gallons of wort, I must say it is getting harder to do.

Fermcap

Five Star Kettle Defoamer 105

Kettle defoamer

How big is your BK?
I keep a spray bottle of water handy plus a wooden spoon.
I also use a 15g BK for 6g batches. My pre-boil ranges from 9-11 gal depending on boil time.
BTW @ 70 I appreciate your concerns. I don't lift anymore than necessary especially w/essentially one arm. That's what pumps are for!

i make sure I have lots of headroom
8 gallon kettle for 3 gallon batches
15 gallon kettle for 5 gallon batches

i lower the heat to minimum and stir like crazy when its going to boil over, works every time

1) kettle big enough to hold the foam
2) Throttle down the heat without moving the kettle
3) spray bottle of cool water - spray it on the foam as needed.
4) IMO, in last place is silicone based foam control.

I have heard that you can put a wooden spoon, paddle across the pot and the foam will stop when it hits the wood. I have not been brave enough to test this. I should though since my porch is pretty well stained from boil overs.

Turn down the heat and stir like hell ...

I have a small spray bottle of water that I used to cool down any eruptions that threaten to boil over.

Spray, spray, spray, it always cools it down. I also use it when I'm doing hop additions as sometimes they will precipitate a boil-up.

I now have a 10-gallon kettle but when I had my 8-gallon kettle I could boil 6.5 gallons of wort and kill any boilovers w/ my spray bottle.

I actually have several, green ones w/ Star-San, blue ones w/ water. I bought 'em in the travel size/samples aisle of Chinamart.

I have a digital thermometer in my boil kettle w/an alarm that goes off at 200*. Then I stand by w/a spray bottle in my left hand and my right had on the propane valve. I do a pretty good job of controlling boil over like this.

Buy a bigger kettle, turn the heat down as you get close to boil. Lifting 14 gallons of boiling wort is crazy, just asking for trouble! I do 5 gallon brews in a 10 gallon kettle and never even came close to having a boil over. Just turn the heat way down, let the hot break happen, and get on with the boil.

I've begun breaking up the foam with a wire whisk. It seems much easier than stirring with a spoon.

In cooking, you learn to place a wooden spoon across a pot to prevent boil overs while your attention is elsewhere. So, I picked up the habit and place a stainless wire strainer across the kettle and turn the heat down to a slow rolling boil once I get a good hot break. Kettle headspace is key to allow some reaction time.

Fermcap changed my brewing life.

For those that don't use it, is there a particular reason why? I honestly can't find any downside for something that makes my brew day so much easier...

I've never had significant or threatening foam during boil, even vigorous boils. What causes this?

TomVA

I don't do a hard boil past hot break. Thermal load, yada yada yada. Unless you are shooting for a high boil off amount, a slow roll is all you need. Keep one hand on the regulator and dial it back to nearly off once I see the break coming. Fermacap if I have to.
I then leave it at a near boil for a moment, almost a roll, then ease back into the heat until it hit that low roll point.
Don't add fermacap until you need it as it precipitates out/boils off/whatever fairly quickly. I keep it at arm's length, opened. Only grab the dropper. Reason: once turned the regulator the wrong way(up), freaked out, dropped the whole bottle of fermacap into my RIS. Fished it out safely though.

I don't know why people insist on keeping the burner cranked when coming to a boil. It's so easy to avoid boilovers. I think some dudes just get off on seeing a violent hot break.

When it's getting close to boil all I do is crank the flame down really really low. No issues, and I still get a nice hot break. Plus, thermal overload on the wort isn't always the best thing.

TomVA said:

I've never had significant or threatening foam during boil, even vigorous boils. What causes this?

TomVA

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Low headspace in the kettle? I often have only an inch or so above the wort to the rim.

I asked because I have my system setup so it is hard to reach the control of the boil burner with not a lot of excessive head space with a 60 quart pot. It is a dual burner hermsI system I designed in the mid 80's. The boil usually last at least 90 minutes and a lot of evaporation takes place. I am also old school where the vigorous boil is used to provide the necessary reduction of the wort and maximize the bittering potential of the hops and melonidian reactions. Being That I enjoy a great beer and know how to make them and a simmer does not produce what flavor compounds that a hard boil produces.

Just prior to hitting the really foamy boilover stage, a lot of particulates and hot break will rise to the top in a "scum".
I keep a very fine mesh stainless steel strainer on hand and as that forms I skim it off until it stops forming.
I find that this dramatically reduces boilover because it removes some of the material that generates persistent foam (the part that actually lingers and boils over).

Combine that with some Fermcap and and turn down the heat a tad and you're good to go.

chumney said:

I asked because I have my system setup so it is hard to reach the control of the boil burner with not a lot of excessive head space with a 60 quart pot. It is a dual burner hermsI system I designed in the mid 80's. The boil usually last at least 90 minutes and a lot of evaporation takes place. I am also old school where the vigorous boil is used to provide the necessary reduction of the wort and maximize the bittering potential of the hops and melonidian reactions. Being That I enjoy a great beer and know how to make them and a simmer does not produce what flavor compounds that a hard boil produces.

Click to expand...

Sounds like fermacap or a bigger kettle is needed

I love Fermcap. It's done more to increase my enjoyment of the brewing process than anything else.

I turn down the heat some then use a fan and aim it over the top of the boil kettle. I find that the fast moving air that goes across the top of the BK cools the surface down and the foamy break subsides quickly!

Wayne1 said:

Fermcap

Five Star Kettle Defoamer 105

Kettle defoamer

Click to expand...

+1 for Fermcap. I use it everytime.

With 4 drops of Fermcap I can't get 5gal to boil over

I skim off the first pre-boil scum that forms at the top of the BK, just prior and a little into the boil.http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/images/smilies/offtopic.gif
I am not sure if I am paranoid, or I should just skip doing this step.....
What are your opinions?

As to preventing a boil over, it seems after about 2-times raising its ugly boil-head, the sugars and proteins start to become more dissolved in the boil and then a much less likely boil over.
Some folks say to put a gram or two of hops pre-boil to help, but I do not find this to work for me.....

Turn down the heat, keep a spray bottle with Ice water, Use a larger kettle, or if you want to go old school keep a fan blowing across the top of your kettle.
What you need to control the hot break is a change in temperature. That's why some people use a spray bottle with water. But if you put ice in it, it works better to knock down that foam.

For God sake, please stop lifting a hot kettle.

kingmatt said:

Fermcap changed my brewing life.

For those that don't use it, is there a particular reason why? I honestly can't find any downside for something that makes my brew day so much easier...

Click to expand...

Seems an easy solution, but is there any evidence that Fermcap could possibly inhibit the formation of a head on your beer once carbed?

mongoose33 said:

I have a small spray bottle of water that I used to cool down any eruptions that threaten to boil over.

Spray, spray, spray, it always cools it down. I also use it when I'm doing hop additions as sometimes they will precipitate a boil-up.

I now have a 10-gallon kettle but when I had my 8-gallon kettle I could boil 6.5 gallons of wort and kill any boilovers w/ my spray bottle.

I actually have several, green ones w/ Star-San, blue ones w/ water. I bought 'em in the travel size/samples aisle of Chinamart.

Click to expand...

I definitely agree with somehow coding the different bottles for spraying. Although spraying with Star-san for boil-overs doesn't hurt anything, it is kind of scary the first time you do it. Trust me!!!:rockin:

Boil over minder on Northern Brewer. Just place it on top of your kettle and it breaks up the foam for you.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/media.../4/2/42038-the-sentinel-boilover-minder-1.jpg

Morrey said:

Seems an easy solution, but is there any evidence that Fermcap could possibly inhibit the formation of a head on your beer once carbed?

Click to expand...

Nope. I've been using it for a few years now and haven't noticed anything negative.

Fermcap is also a lifesaver when making starters in an Erlenmeyer flask. Prevents boilovers AND keeps kreusen down.

+1 for the spray bottle, here.
The trick is to quit trying to do too much else as boil approaches. If you're not there to actually use the spray bottle, I've found it does little on its own.

mdime said:

Nope. I've been using it for a few years now and haven't noticed anything negative.

Fermcap is also a lifesaver when making starters in an Erlenmeyer flask. Prevents boilovers AND keeps kreusen down.

Click to expand...

This X1000. I've been using Fermcap and have never had any issues with head formation or retention.

On my last brew, I found that the bottle I had had developed mold and had to toss it and do without. Never again.

How the heck does Fermcap get moldy?

I suppose the tiny Fermcap bottle could get wort in it if you had it squished to drop some drops in and let go of the bottle just as it got splashed with wort coming back up the other way?


With Fermcap available I don't know why anybody would do anything else. One wee bottle lasts one lifetime as well.

Fermcap Fermcap Fermcap! And a backup spray bottle of water just in case (though it'd be extremely unlikely).

plazola86 said:

Boil over minder on Northern Brewer. Just place it on top of your kettle and it breaks up the foam for you.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/media.../4/2/42038-the-sentinel-boilover-minder-1.jpg

Click to expand...

This device was mercilessly ripped so bad (and deservedly so) when NB first introduced it. $60 for what is essentially a steamer basket.

I dont move the kettle but do turn the heat down to control the boil. I also stir like a mad witch. I keep it hot enough to allow the break but not to over flow. After the break I return to full boil.

chumney said:

I am getting older and brewing a larger volume of beer. I am wondering how others control the wort hot break or boil over? I am still moving the wort off the heat and letting it settle back down before placing back on the heat source. At 65+ and over 14 gallons of wort, I must say it is getting harder to do.

Click to expand...

You're seriously picking up 14 gallons of near boiling wort instead of just turning the heat down?

Ferm cap is a chemical. Dimethylpolysiloxane. It is said to be removed from the beer by the yeast during fermentation. But still.

Turn the heat down and stir.

I converted to electric with a 240 volt 5500 watt ultra low watt density heating element. I use a Riorand 10,000 watt controller from Amazon to regulate the power. As the break happens and the foam heads up the kettle I just "dial" back on the power until it stops and hold it there until the foam clears and then bump the power back up. I will never go back to propane. The cost to brew is 70% less with electric and I go from room temp water to boil in less than 10 minutes for a 6+ gallon run.

fnffishcore said:

This device was mercilessly ripped so bad (and deservedly so) when NB first introduced it. $60 for what is essentially a steamer basket.

Click to expand...

This is a solution to the OP's problem. $60 dollars for this pre made item, make one yourself, or pay for back surgery after trying to lift 14 gallons and something slips. I wouldn't want to lift 14 gallons and I'm half the age of the OP.