Bigdaddyale
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Native ESP8266 BrewPi Firmware - WiFi BrewPi, no Arduino needed!
- Thread starter Thorrak
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I got my boards today but ran out of solder. What is JP1 used for?
Nice! Let us know how it works (once you get solder).
JP1 is for the optional buzzer. It isn't used in the code, but I figured why not break it out.
So you pull the jumper and power the relays with 5v0?
That brings up a question for @Thorrak ... I see the board is marked 5v. We're good here?
I hooked up my LCD to the new board last night and it powered right up. I have not yet hooked up a relay or sensors as SWMBO was strongly encouraging me to leave my project alone for a day.
We should be. If memory serves correctly, the relay boards generally have an optocoupler which switches VCC to the relay. Basically it's 3.3v to the optocoupler to 5v to the relay to mains power.
Eventually I want to design a board which incorporates the relays as well, but it will blow up the BOM as well as the cost of the project (the additional PCB cost alone will be more than the relay board) and as such hasn't been prioritized.
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nestar:nestar:nestar:nestar:nestar:I was going to ask about it previously, but since I'm basically putting things on a list for you to do I figured I'd keep my mouth shut.
You can put me down as a person who would definitely use the design.
If you want to go crazy, drop in high voltage as well with a power supply and you have a one-board solution.
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I was going to ask about it previously, but since I'm basically putting things on a list for you to do I figured I'd keep my mouth shut.
You can put me down as a person who would definitely use the design.
If you want to go crazy, drop in high voltage as well with a power supply and you have a one-board solution.
See - I'd be fine with that, if for no other reason than to guarantee a clean 5V power supply. Most of the cheap cell phone charger circuits out there are incredibly noisy and potentially will ruin the ESP (as someone was complaining about earlier in the thread). Unfortunately, at the moment, designing such a circuit is beyond my skill set.
I spent some time at a company who designed, built and sold surge suppressors. I've also worked on frequency drives. The combination have given me some understanding of the electronics behind an AC to DC power supply if not the ability to design one. It's not all that complicated though as I remember.
Transformation (transformer), rectification (bridge rectifier), smoothing (capacitors), regulation (L7805 regulator does 2A I think) .. that's about it. I think the real design trade-off will be in the capacitor for smoothing. The cleaner the supply the larger the capacitor generally. Something like this the attached I slapped together. Apologies if you already know this and mean how to design a QUALITY one ... in which case I cannot help.
Of course I may be thinking in 1990 terms and there's cooler ways to do things.
ETA: My bridge rectifier is backwards, but you get the idea I think.
Transformation (transformer), rectification (bridge rectifier), smoothing (capacitors), regulation (L7805 regulator does 2A I think) .. that's about it. I think the real design trade-off will be in the capacitor for smoothing. The cleaner the supply the larger the capacitor generally. Something like this the attached I slapped together. Apologies if you already know this and mean how to design a QUALITY one ... in which case I cannot help.
Of course I may be thinking in 1990 terms and there's cooler ways to do things.
ETA: My bridge rectifier is backwards, but you get the idea I think.
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I want to design a board that can be used with both SSR and relay too.
However, I don't have the knowledge. Would you shed some light on it?
I really don't understand why a few resistors and transistors will make the cost hike.
Is this right? I think you can see the colors (yes I have it pulled out slightly). I'm getting an address but no value.
Did you reset the eeprom to its default settings? I really need to find a fix for that...
The "sainsmart" relay circuit is pretty simple, to be honest, and is readily available online. The reason I was commenting on cost is less the resistors/optocoupler/relay and more the fact that I'm guessing you would need another 2 sq. inches of space to hold it. At $4/per, that's $8/order (or $2/board). Still though. I like the thought and want to do it if I can.
Did that ... now I get nothing.
Is that wiring order right? If so I'll re-check all my connections.
Did that ... now I get nothing.
Is that wiring order right? If so I'll re-check all my connections.
What colors did you wire the pins of the DS18B20 to?
The sainsmart relay boards are too cheap to rule out, while SSR has its advantage. Therefore, I would like to have a circuit that supports both. What I learn is that SSR need free drain while relay board uses digital signal. I don't know if there is a way to support both in one circuit.
Mikmonken
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View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1475258010.835857.jpgok so I've received my boards but I'm a little confused as to what goes where i.e. R1 and J1 I also thought those little Mosfets went somewhere but I can't work out where it would go.
Does any one have a step by step diagram or a layout that I can follow?
Cheers
Does any one have a step by step diagram or a layout that I can follow?
Cheers
Bigdaddyale
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You have the through hole board not the smd board. Look at https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7722447&postcount=321 JP1 is for a buzzer and J1 is a RJ11 phone jack. R1 is for a resistor
I don't, unfortunately, but it looks like you ordered the same board as @LBussy which is the one with through hole components & screw terminals. That one doesn't use SMD mosfets or SMD resistors.
As far as where the parts go...
J1 is the RJ-11 connector. It should snap into the two side holes, with the wires poking through the 6 holes in the back.
On the left, you have the two large rectangles labeled "LCD" and "RELAY". these are either 4-pin screw terminals, or two 2-pin screw terminals that are attached using the side tabs. Again, the wires on the bottom should poke through the holes in the board. The jack part should face out.
To the right of the LCD screw terminal & above the RJ-11 jack is the "Sparkfun" style level shifter board. You've got options on this one - you can either add 6 pins worth of female pin header to each side or can permanently attach the level shifter board by soldering male pin headers to the level shifter and then soldering it to the holes on this PCB.
To the right of both the level shifter and the RJ-11 jack is where you attach the WeMos D1 Mini board. Again - you can either go the (permanent) male pin header route (not recommended!) or the detachable female pin header route (recommended!).
In the upper right of the board labeled "GND IN" and "+5V IN" is another 2-pin screw terminal.
To the left of that is JP1 which is for the (optional, currently unused) buzzer. You can use either use male pin header or female pin header here - It's not permanent in this case as you would use dupont cables to hook it up if you wanted to use it. Alternatively, you could leave these pins unpopulated.
To the left of that is R1. This is where you need to add a 10k resistor.
And with that, you should be good! Report back once you're done, and let us know how it works!
Bigdaddyale
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It looks like the DS18b20 is powered off the 3v pin of the D1 mini- is that enough power? I thought the DS18b20 needs 5v
Bigdaddyale
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Nope, 3.0V to 5.5V. 3v3 should be fine. I've had it working before, just not on the PCB.
Bigdaddyale
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How about the 10k resistor instead of the 4.7k.
Bigdaddyale
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Ds18b20
red = power
yellow =data
green =ground
red = power
yellow =data
green =ground
All my sensors have Red(+), black(GND), and yellow(data) lines.
It might be right but seems weird to me by using Black for Vcc.
I usually uses RED as Vcc, Black as GND, and green as neutral.
Bigdaddyale
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pin # RJ11 6 pin
1 = no connection
2= 3.3v
3 = data
4= ground
5= d7 door
6= no connection
1 = no connection
2= 3.3v
3 = data
4= ground
5= d7 door
6= no connection
Bigdaddyale
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All of mine are red vcc, black gnd, yellow data
10k -- I don't know, actually. I think I saw something somewhere awhile back that suggested it, and so that's what I used. It works, but 4.7k also works. Use what you have.
The 5v/GND In are for you to hook up a +5V power supply inside whatever enclosure you choose to use. If you prefer to power via USB instead, you can do so also. Either work. Just don't do both simultaneously.
If you are powering via USB, however, make sure your USB power supply puts out clean power. The cheap chinese knock-off power supplies generally don't, and the ESP8266 doesn't have much in the way of filters to clean it up.
In this case, black is referring to the color in the telephone cable, not the color coming off the DS18B20. Unfortunately, due to the wire ordering in telephone cable, there isn't a way to get black to be gnd. Sucks.
Mikmonken
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Cool I'll try and solder stuff together with the bits I've got now. The USB on my wemo died after a 1/2 a day but it still powers through the the 5v and ground..
My issue was a bad splice ... two of them to be exact. Go me!
Not wired up relays yet but I have no doubt they will work.
Not wired up relays yet but I have no doubt they will work.
Just for fun, my sensors have green for data. You never know what you will get.
Mikmonken
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Mid brewday so I can't trouble shoot the blank display but we're close View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1475317413.176901.jpg
Did you use v3 or 4 of the firmware? The reason I ask is when I had an address that was not the same as in the code mine did that. v4 has a small routine that finds the display automatically.
Mikmonken
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I'd flashed it before you posted the issue so I suspect it was before the change was made
Bigdaddyale
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Two boards soldered up -now waiting for the resistors. I have a choice of 91% isopropyl or 70% ethyl alcohol to use as a flux cleaner which one should I use?I got my boards today but ran out of solder. What is JP1 used for?
Mikmonken
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Don't know the answer but the screw connectors had a little tun and grove down the side so you can connect them together
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