I've heard a lot abou Auber's EZBoil, but what about Bräu SV240 EZboil?

doug293cz · Sep 27, 2016

Here are a few possible designs using the DSPR type controllers. Note that they are for the older DSPR110, and the pin-outs have changed for the newer DSPR120. All of these designs assume that the power feed to the control panel is GFCI protected.

Element control only, no pump:

Element control plus switched pump outlet and unswitched aux outlet:

Similar to the above, but without the aux outlet:

In the last two you can replace the switch + contactor combo with a Leviton 3032 series toggle switch. You can also swap out the SWM-DR-C for a Leviton 3032.

Brew on :mug:

stamandster · Sep 27, 2016

Schematics look good! What are you using to make them?

doug293cz · Sep 28, 2016

stamandster said:
Schematics look good! What are you using to make them?

I use an old (and unavailable) program called QuickCAD. It was eventually bought by Autodesk and killed because it was too good as low cost competition to other Autocad offerings. Second time I've answered this question today.

Brew on :mug:

augiedoggy · Sep 28, 2016

stamandster said:
So which is it? $75 and completely hard wired, no GFCI, no connector, or $150 and safer?

What does the GFCI have to do with this? thats a separate item further up the power stream...
And a hardwired unit could be looked at as safer actually depending on how you want to look at it since theres less connectors but really its just about portability.. I would consider hard wiring the controller but definitely make the element with an easy disconnect or outlet. same with temp probe... I just prefer to do it all at the kettle end since thats what gets removed for cleaning.

My point was you COULD get all the same functiuonality for about $75 depending on how you chose to wire it up... some people have things like plugs and outlets laying around in their garage or basement or from thier current control panel configuration too...

augiedoggy · Sep 28, 2016

doug293cz said:
Here are a few possible designs using the DSPR type controllers. Note that they are for the older DSPR110, and the pin-outs have changed for the newer DSPR120. All of these designs assume that the power feed to the control panel is GFCI protected.

Element control only, no pump:

View attachment 371634

Element control plus switched pump outlet and unswitched aux outlet:

View attachment 371635

Similar to the above, but without the aux outlet:

View attachment 371636

In the last two you can replace the switch + contactor combo with a Leviton 3032 series toggle switch. You can also swap out the SWM-DR-C for a Leviton 3032.

Brew on

even though the pin locations have changed with the newer ezboil units the labeling for the pins is the same so you can use the same diagram for any of the units, you would just add stuff if you wanted to use the optional relay outputs .
thanks for saving me from uploading something done in crayon!

augiedoggy · Sep 28, 2016

Jwin said:
Except jaggerbush is closed
http://jaggerbushbrewing.com/PID-CONTROLLER-220-VOLT-6000-WATT-30-AMP_p_21.html
Sadly, passed away.

yeah I mentioned that as well... point was they offered the same products at about half the cost.. I mentioned it for a reference for other premade options and costs.

stamandster · Sep 28, 2016

augiedoggy said:
My point was you COULD get all the same functiuonality for about $75 depending on how you chose to wire it up... some people have things like plugs and outlets laying around in their garage or basement or from thier current control panel configuration too...

I hear what your saying, but a simple PWM is still not going to replace an EZboil or PID completely. Instead of rattling off numbers lets come up w a list of all components needed for as cheap as possible. Ill do the same later w a schematic. Lets try it and see if we can save everyone some cash

applescrap · Sep 28, 2016

^^ thats a great idea and would be really cool to do. One problem to overcome, is I found similar components with a wide variety of prices. I saw components on eBay that were ridiculously cheap. After seeing those I decided to go with Auber instruments. I realized by the time I bought all the plugs, wires, wire caps, components, and everything else it wasn't going to be that much savings from the great deal jagger offered.

So do we need two prices, cheapest parts and most expensive parts?

jmrybak · Sep 28, 2016

applescrap said:
^^ thats a great idea and would be really cool to do. One problem to overcome, is I found similar components with a wide variety of prices. I saw components on eBay that were ridiculously cheap. After seeing those I decided to go with Auber instruments. I realized by the time I bought all the plugs, wires, wire caps, components, and everything else it wasn't going to be that much savings from the great deal jagger offered.

So do we need two prices, cheapest parts and most expensive parts?

How about a part list for the lowest cost build possible, then a second for one that uses only trusted components at an average market price?

stamandster · Sep 28, 2016

What are we including? Or what are we trying to match? PID controller for 120 or 240? I agree, a bottom line, barebones and then one that more closely matches the Auber, Jagger or Brau, etc.

Can't forget internal wiring too! 10g stranded for 30a circuits and 18g is ok for 110v pump and control circuits, 12g for element if 120v, 10g if 240v.

augiedoggy · Sep 29, 2016

stamandster said:
I hear what your saying, but a simple PWM is still not going to replace an EZboil or PID completely. Instead of rattling off numbers lets come up w a list of all components needed for as cheap as possible. Ill do the same later w a schematic. Lets try it and see if we can save everyone some cash

the $75 would cover the $50 for the ezboil controller from auber and the $11 for the srr/heatsink combo from ebay as well as the $3-7 for a 10a switch for the pump (which really is a desperate unnecessary circuit unrelated to the heat control unit.) There are many ways to incorporate on off control for a pump such as a regular switched outlet.
depending on what you have on hand as for as electrical wire and other basic components the price goes up of course but again a lot of people have some of these components laying around from other projects. if not yeah your looking more at $150 or so for the enclosure and wiring and outlets along with the stuff mentioned above. still about $250 less than the premade unit shipped though if your trying to work with a budget.

I really have most of the capability of this unit now with a $32 mypin td4 pid with manual pwm mode built in and a $3 alarm connected to it along with the $5 ssr and $4 heat sink... the power wire I bought at the home depot... I think the additional conveniences like the timed boil and additional alarm will be nice so I bought the 300 version of this from auber to replace one of my TD4 pids in my sub $300 control panel build here - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=497593

augiedoggy · Sep 29, 2016

applescrap said:
^^ thats a great idea and would be really cool to do. One problem to overcome, is I found similar components with a wide variety of prices. I saw components on eBay that were ridiculously cheap. After seeing those I decided to go with Auber instruments. I realized by the time I bought all the plugs, wires, wire caps, components, and everything else it wasn't going to be that much savings from the great deal jagger offered.

So do we need two prices, cheapest parts and most expensive parts?

auber has gotten better with their pricing but all their components like the temp probes ssrs switches and pretty much everything but their custom cut panels and pids are really just the same generic chinese components they repackage and sell for about twice what they sell for on amazon,ebay or aliexpress.. If it were to buy all the equivalents of the components I used in my sub $300 panel from auber it would have been well over $700 to built functionally the same thing. I listed the costs in my thread for my components and you can compare them to aubers if you are skeptical... $400 is a lot of extra to spend just to make it easier to shop... especially if you dont need to be spoonfed on how to wire them up and use them... I had no problems asking questions here and reading to learn what I needed and how to build it.. Its all in how intuitive and lazy you are as well as your income of course which changes perspectives drastically.
this has been beaten to death in many threads but,
In many cases the cheapest and most expensive parts are coming from the same manufacturers bins.. the price difference is in who selling them and how much of a discount they get in bulk vs how much they can get for them... They will charge as much as they can and they will try to misled consumers into thinking their components are different and better in some way.

augiedoggy · Sep 29, 2016

Lets look at a simple SSR and heatsink...

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_48&products_id=45

plus the grease http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_48&products_id=563

ok thats $22 together plus what $4-7 shipping from auberins right? so $26-29 out the door with shipping...

Now lets look at the exact same SSR from the same manufactuer that makes them and relabels them for auber...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mager-Solid...761331?hash=item237335cdf3:g:fqIAAOSw9mFWJzu~

$12 for the SSR, heatsink and grease including shipping.... Thats much less than half the cost! It adds up on all the components for a build quickly. Yeah it might take an extra week or two but honestly if youve gone this long without it theres no legit reason that I see why a person cant wait and extra week or two to save hundreds.

and an ssr rated for 25a means 25a or less... most 5500w elements draw 22-23 a max or even less. but you can still save even more if you decide to over build everything.

the 40A version is $3 more ...about half of the $5 increase from auber between the 25 and 40a version..

MBN · Oct 1, 2016

Anyone opened up there Brau EZ boil 240V? Following the thread with hopes of building one when I get back to the states. I think a lot of the parts I'm going to need to source direct from China so trying to order now to have in Nov. when I'm back.

applescrap · Oct 1, 2016

augiedoggy said:
Lets look at a simple SSR and heatsink...

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_48&products_id=45

plus the grease http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_48&products_id=563

ok thats $22 together plus what $4-7 shipping from auberins right? so $26-29 out the door with shipping...

Now lets look at the exact same SSR from the same manufactuer that makes them and relabels them for auber...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mager-Solid...761331?hash=item237335cdf3:g:fqIAAOSw9mFWJzu~

$12 for the SSR, heatsink and grease including shipping.... Thats much less than half the cost! It adds up on all the components for a build quickly. Yeah it might take an extra week or two but honestly if youve gone this long without it theres no legit reason that I see why a person cant wait and extra week or two to save hundreds.

and an ssr rated for 25a means 25a or less... most 5500w elements draw 22-23 a max or even less. but you can still save even more if you decide to over build everything.

the 40A version is $3 more ...about half of the $5 increase from auber between the 25 and 40a version..

I didn't trust those cheaper parts. Was I wrong? If you use these cheap parts it would be very inexpensive to build something. I think jagger bush used a dryer cord cut in half for the plug on my box. With the other half pull a wire and make the 3 prong element plug? Yep I went 30 amp I think on everything because of pump, but with just element, 25a would do.

So 12 for ssr, relay, and heat sink. What else is needed? This is a good start. I might build one and sell mine.

MBN · Oct 1, 2016

doug293cz said:
Here are a few possible designs using the DSPR type controllers. Note that they are for the older DSPR110, and the pin-outs have changed for the newer DSPR120. All of these designs assume that the power feed to the control panel is GFCI protected.

Element control only, no pump:

View attachment 371634

Element control plus switched pump outlet and unswitched aux outlet:

View attachment 371635

Similar to the above, but without the aux outlet:

View attachment 371636

In the last two you can replace the switch + contactor combo with a Leviton 3032 series toggle switch. You can also swap out the SWM-DR-C for a Leviton 3032.

Brew on

Do the contactors need to be 220V or 120v will work?

doug293cz · Oct 1, 2016

MBN said:
Do the contactors need to be 220V or 120v will work?

The contactors need to have 240V/30A (or higher) rated contacts, since they are switching 240V power circuits. As designed they use 120V coils, although the circuits could be redesigned to use 240V coils.

Brew on :mug:

MBN · Oct 1, 2016

doug293cz said:
The contactors need to have 240V/30A (or higher) rated contacts, since they are switching 240V power circuits. As designed they use 120V coils, although the circuits could be redesigned to use 240V coils.

Brew on

Thanks! I think I was confused by the way you have the part number on the wiring diagram.

doug293cz · Oct 1, 2016

MBN said:
Thanks! I think I was confused by the way you have the part number on the wiring diagram.

That's an Auber PN (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129) for a dual pole contactor rated to 600VAC. The 120 in the PN refers to the coil voltage. Other contactors can be used, as long as they are sufficiently rated.

Brew on :mug:

augiedoggy · Oct 2, 2016

applescrap said:
I didn't trust those cheaper parts. Was I wrong? If you use these cheap parts it would be very inexpensive to build something. I think jagger bush used a dryer cord cut in half for the plug on my box. With the other half pull a wire and make the 3 prong element plug? Yep I went 30 amp I think on everything because of pump, but with just element, 25a would do.

So 12 for ssr, relay, and heat sink. What else is needed? This is a good start. I might build one and sell mine.

Besides the temp controllers and pids, aubers stuff IS the cheaper parts... they are a reseller or middleman who buys it in bulk for less than we could get it as retail and sells it for twice that. Thats the whole point you are one of the many here that bought from them thinking the stuff was some sort of special higher quality components. the relabeling of cheaper components as "store brand" for much higher prices is a misleading tactic thats nothing new. I cant say I blame them for wanting to make money but I just like to inform people who might be discouraged because they feel they have to pay the higher prices for quality.

I bought my power cord from the home depot... its not dryer cord but rather the S0 and SJ cord and it was cheaper than you would pay as most online brewing suppliers.

I mentioned above what is needed and the components are broken down by doug in his wiring diagram... basically you just need a 10A switch and wire and thats in for INSIDE the box.. then you have the main power cord and the pump cord with 15a female plug and the 30A plug

augiedoggy · Oct 2, 2016

doug293cz said:
The contactors need to have 240V/30A (or higher) rated contacts, since they are switching 240V power circuits. As designed they use 120V coils, although the circuits could be redesigned to use 240V coils.

Brew on

EDIT *** disregard the previous comments related to the contactor. I did not realize the 240v version does have one, was going on pics posted not realizing it was the 120v version.

augiedoggy · Oct 2, 2016

MBN said:
Anyone opened up there Brau EZ boil 240V? Following the thread with hopes of building one when I get back to the states. I think a lot of the parts I'm going to need to source direct from China so trying to order now to have in Nov. when I'm back.

There are many pics of the inside on page three of this thread. you can see theres nothing inside of the box that isnt visible from the outside but some wire and the ssr...

he does have a snap in 120v receptacle like this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hard-Find-W...701639?hash=item33ae9aa1c7:g:0fwAAOSw1S9WdNMJ

or this one

https://www.elvessupply.com/Dotwork...0V-Pigtail-Ac-Outlet-Receptacle_p_361002.html

augiedoggy · Oct 2, 2016

ok so heres a cost breakdown to build this unit. (someone please correct me if I made any mistakes)

The enclosure, ($6 from ebay new)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-PC...ic-Project-Case-DIY-100-76-35mm-/361450429155

plug for pump $14

https://www.elvessupply.com/Dotwork...0V-Pigtail-Ac-Outlet-Receptacle_p_361002.html

temp controller from Auberins ($46)

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=560

ssr and heat sink ,good mager brand (linked above for $12 with heat sink and temp paste)

10a 22mm on off swithc for the pump (I used the exact same one Brau uses which cost $1 or 2 bucks more than other options but may be better quality.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22mm-Rotary...088562?hash=item5d3d668972:g:kzwAAMXQMTlRaFPS

30A pug $10.49 shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-L14-30...708686?hash=item19d959934e:g:IJQAAMXQ8OdRL7Qv

10/4 properly rated and speced power cord for main power $2.04 a foot ($12-13 for 6 ft)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iron-Box-1-...802108?hash=item19eec0e7fc:g:e2QAAOxyk99RzFPz

10/3 cord for power to the heating element, $1.45 a foot ($12 for 8 feet)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-3-SOOW-1...323053?hash=item35f88e02ad:g:XUMAAOSwa-dWitpf

3 pin aviation connector for the temp probe.. $1.06 shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M16-16mm-3-...821207?hash=item43e1a9f6d7:g:6LAAAOSwBahVLdDR

pt100 triclover temp probe $48 (I dont recommend this one unless you have a need for the triclover probe, also I have seen them for much less on aliexpress)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANDERSON-2-...375303?hash=item3f60b46747:g:XwwAAOSwq19XCB08

deatachable pt100 sensor like auber sells...$9 (I use probes like this because they stay mounted in my kettle and I can unplug the cord from them.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-T...223954?hash=item5d64ed2e12:g:EcMAAOSw7ehXQshA

So there you go...$128 or $166 (plus shipping on some components) build costs depending on what style of pt100 probe mounting you go with for the identical setup... Now imagine how much cheaper it is for Brau to build since he buys the components in bulk at a discount?

jmrybak · Oct 2, 2016

augiedoggy said:
ok so heres a cost breakdown to build this unit. (someone please correct me if I made any mistakes)

The enclosure, ($6 from ebay new)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-PC...ic-Project-Case-DIY-100-76-35mm-/361450429155

plug for pump $14

https://www.elvessupply.com/Dotwork...0V-Pigtail-Ac-Outlet-Receptacle_p_361002.html

temp controller from Auberins ($46)

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=560

ssr and heat sink ,good mager brand (linked above for $12 with heat sink and temp paste)

10a 22mm on off swithc for the pump (I used the exact same one Brau uses which cost $1 or 2 bucks more than other options but may be better quality.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22mm-Rotary...088562?hash=item5d3d668972:g:kzwAAMXQMTlRaFPS

30A pug $10.49 shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-L14-30...708686?hash=item19d959934e:g:IJQAAMXQ8OdRL7Qv

10/4 properly rated and speced power cord for main power $2.04 a foot ($12-13 for 6 ft)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iron-Box-1-...802108?hash=item19eec0e7fc:g:e2QAAOxyk99RzFPz

10/3 cord for power to the heating element, $1.45 a foot ($12 for 8 feet)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-3-SOOW-1...323053?hash=item35f88e02ad:g:XUMAAOSwa-dWitpf

3 pin aviation connector for the temp probe.. $1.06 shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M16-16mm-3-...821207?hash=item43e1a9f6d7:g:6LAAAOSwBahVLdDR

pt100 triclover temp probe $48 (I dont recommend this one unless you have a need for the triclover probe, also I have seen them for much less on aliexpress)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANDERSON-2-...375303?hash=item3f60b46747:g:XwwAAOSwq19XCB08

deatachable pt100 sensor like auber sells...$9 (I use probes like this because they stay mounted in my kettle and I can unplug the cord from them.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-T...223954?hash=item5d64ed2e12:g:EcMAAOSw7ehXQshA

So there you go...$128 or $166 (plus shipping on some components) build costs depending on what style of pt100 probe mounting you go with for the identical setup... Now imagine how much cheaper it is for Brau to build since he buys the components in bulk at a discount?

Very nice part list! While I myself chose to buy the BrauSupply EZBoil 120v, and don't regret it, this is really nice to have out there. For me, who has no electrical experience, none of the few tools one might need to best cut/ strip wire or prepare the enclosure, and just as little free time not spent brewing, I was happy to pay to have one of these made for me. Considering time, money, and safety.

But I may have felt differently if there was this list and a tutorial or walk through on building one of these here on the forum. If anyone out there is considering building this set up, please make a thread describing the process! That would be really cool.

augiedoggy · Oct 2, 2016

jmrybak said:
Very nice part list! While I myself chose to buy the BrauSupply EZBoil 120v, and don't regret it, this is really nice to have out there. For me, who has no electrical experience, none of the few tools one might need to best cut/ strip wire or prepare the enclosure, and just as little free time not spent brewing, I was happy to pay to have one of these made for me. Considering time, money, and safety.

But I may have felt differently if there was this list and a tutorial or walk through on building one of these here on the forum. If anyone out there is considering building this set up, please make a thread describing the process! That would be really cool.

I used a pocket knife or utility knife for stripping wire for many years but yeah having the correct tools makes a huge difference.

there is a wiring diagram listed in this thread. There are many videos on youtube which can help folks feel more comfortable with the process. before I built mine I had no idea what a pid was and had never built anything electrical before even though I repair electromechanical equipment for a living many folks who build these dont have any electrical experience. for a simple controller like this you can get all the internal wiring ,crimps and tools at harbor freight...

MBN · Oct 2, 2016

augiedoggy said:
There are many pics of the inside on page three of this thread. you can see theres nothing inside of the box that isnt visible from the outside but some wire and the ssr...

he does have a snap in 120v receptacle like this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hard-Find-W...701639?hash=item33ae9aa1c7:g:0fwAAOSw1S9WdNMJ

or this one

https://www.elvessupply.com/Dotwork...0V-Pigtail-Ac-Outlet-Receptacle_p_361002.html

I saw the pictures on page three. It's a 120v system. I want to see the inside of a 240v system. As for the 120v plug Auber has the one socket ones pretty cheap. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=274 $1.95 and if your getting the EZ boil might as well get the plug. the 240v system must have some sort of contactor in order to handle the load across the switch.

doug293cz · Oct 2, 2016

MBN said:
I saw the pictures on page three. It's a 120v system. I want to see the inside of a 240v system. As for the 120v plug Auber has the one socket ones pretty cheap. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=274 $1.95 and if your getting the EZ boil might as well get the plug. the 240v system must have some sort of contactor in order to handle the load across the switch.

There are DPST toggle switches (Leviton 3032 series, or equivalent) that will handle 30A @ 240V that can be used instead of contactors for many applications.

Check out the designs in this post. The contactors and breaker in the second and third designs could be replaced with Leviton 3031 switches, similar to what is shown in the first design.

Brew on :mug:

MBN · Oct 2, 2016

doug293cz said:
There are DPST toggle switches (Leviton 3032 series, or equivalent) that will handle 30A @ 240V that can be used instead of contactors for many applications.

Check out the designs in this post. The contactors and breaker in the second and third designs could be replaced with Leviton 3031 switches, similar to what is shown in the first design.

Brew on

I was thinking something a little smaller to fit in the same type case as the Brau. This one is rated at 250V 15/30 A

Bobby_M · Oct 2, 2016

The high current switch is one place I would feel more comfortable with a UL listed name brand device.

doug293cz · Oct 2, 2016

MBN said:
I was thinking something a little smaller to fit in the same type case as the Brau. This one is rated at 250V 15/30 A

Without a thorough understanding of just what "15/30A" means, I wouldn't trust this switch. You're dealing with enough power to start a fire pretty easily. Do you want to take unknown risks? It's your build, you own the consequences.

Brew on :mug:

I've heard a lot abou Auber's EZBoil, but what about Bräu SV240 EZboil?

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