Soldering Stainless steel

ScubaSteve · Dec 26, 2013

You're gonna need a hole saw and some way to keep the keg and drill centered. Alternatively, you *MIGHT* get away with a step drill bit....depends on the od of the pipe...which is less than 2" off the top of my head. This second method would be preferred...hole saws can be a real PITA.

Brazing is probably a better choice than soldering, that's a very large joint and you need the most strength you can get. You might be able to find a spud large enough to accomodate the 2" triclover fitting, at least you'd have a good shoulder for fitup...and then the solder would probably be enough. Otherwise, you can go with a Safetysilv 30ish alloy versus the full 56%...it is quite expensive...but your color will be slightly off if that matters. Cadmium free silicon bronze will probably work too, but I'd be very careful about the ingredients, this is usually not food grade.

As stated, why 2"? You could get rid of a lot of obstacles by going with a 1" triclover, which will provide PLENTY of flow.

ScubaSteve · Dec 26, 2013

double post.......

pelipen · Dec 26, 2013

Thanks HBT. I used the reducer pulled through a coupler approach posted toward the beginning. I had three different 1/2" couplers with night and day differences in quality and size. Several of mine were narrower in the middle, so I picked the best and turned it down on the edge. The more expensive one was dead square with threads like razor blades, and a cut to prove it.

I used liquid stay clean and regular stay bright, not #8 since the only advantage is a wider melting range. Just a standard propane torch I use on copper.

I'm quite pleased with the results. I buffed them up with baking soda and a scotch brite pad.

snackson · Dec 27, 2013

I dimpled and soldered five 1/2" couplers and soldered on one of Bobby's 1.5" tri-clover solder fittings today onto some keggles. My reducer for the dimple tool was just a little bit smaller than my 1/2" couplers were so it was a little tricky but I managed to make it work. I only pulled the couplers about 1/3 of the way out of the keg. I was glad that I had a dial caliper on hand because that made the dimpling process easier. I used the Stay Brite kit and used up just one of the solder coils and still have another kit left. The tri-clover fitting wasn't that bad either, I just had to manually feed a little more solder in on one side. I have been leak testing for an hour and no leaks so far. I am leaving them overnight to sit and will clean them up in the morning. Once I get the keggles cleaned up I will post pictures. Thanks to everyone for all of your posts and tips over the years. I could not have done it without this forum.

ryanhope · Jan 2, 2014

How strong are the silver soldered bulk heads? Has anyone ever broken one torquing down on them?

wbarber69 · Jan 3, 2014

ryanhope said:
How strong are the silver soldered bulk heads? Has anyone ever broken one torquing down on them?

I installed all my ball valves with 1 wrench. I installed a 1" spud for a bottom drain and then used a big crescent wrench to install my nipple/valve so tight that the threads bottomed out. No problems. Just make sure you sand everything and use the right flux.

wilserbrewer · Jan 3, 2014

ryanhope said:
How strong are the silver soldered bulk heads? Has anyone ever broken one torquing down on them?

Bobby M did a video where he soldered a heavy washer to some stock, the beat the hell out of it with a BFH...silver solder is strong enough for our applications was my conclusion.

Of course, done properly with enough area to solder is key

AllanMar · Jan 4, 2014

DallasW said:
Just picking up the parts to attempt to install a 2" TC ferrule into my kettles. I was just wondering what everyone else has used?

I'm planning on using this for my dimple tool:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EHGE3W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

This for my flux/solder:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015H6JYS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

What I'm wondering is what tool should I use to cut the initial hole, and what size to get? Knockout punches in that size range look like they're about $120, which seems silly to spend on something I'm going to use 1-2 times. Any thoughts?

I also used 2" TC. I'm guessing you want it for heating elements? (thats what I used mine for). Makes the ripple elements alot easier to get in/out.

I used a 1 1/4" conduit punch for the hole and had a dimple tool custom made (so that doesnt help you much). You can get cheap conduit punches at harbor freight and stuff I believe.

This setup has worked out pretty well for me, I would definatly recommend 2" TC for heating elements. I use 1" TC for other connections.

Bobby_M · Jan 4, 2014

The ripple elements make it into 1.5" TC no problem. I personally wouldn't want to use larger holes than necessary especially if you're buying new punches.

AllanMar · Jan 4, 2014

Bobby_M said:
The ripple elements make it into 1.5" TC no problem. I personally wouldn't want to use larger holes than necessary especially if you're buying new punches.

I mocked up both before deciding and preferred the 2" (didn't mean to imply 1.5" doesn't work). Of course its a personal preference and to each their own.

If I did it again I'd probably go 1.5" with straight elements, but for ripple I like the 2".

Bobby_M · Jan 4, 2014

I was just making sure folks didn't get the wrong impression. Either 1.5 or 2" TC ferrules will work.

wbarber69 · Jan 7, 2014

The brewhardware.com 1.5" solder on triclover setup is the cleanest and smallest way to install an element. And you can get closer to the bottom of your pot.

burkesw · Jan 9, 2014

Bobby,

I really like the 1.5" solder flange you have, looks like its easy to install and clean. It's a nice part and solid but I'm a cheap skate and its a nicer part than I can afford.

Would silver soldering a 1.5" ferrule like (option #2 has on your site) this work just as well? Is dimpling the hole really necessary? Thanks!

Bobby_M · Jan 9, 2014

You can silver solder the ferrule but you would definitely have to dimple/flare the hole for better contact area. If it were as easy as drilling a hole, there's no way I'd bother designing the more expensive flange part.

burkesw · Jan 9, 2014

Bobby_M said:
If it were as easy as drilling a hole, there's no way I'd bother designing the more expensive flange part.

Touché Sir... Thanks for the input!

rappell · Jan 13, 2014

HELP frustration meter pegged! Got myself a new metapot 1.2, drilled and dimpled it, sanded and cleaned it and the coupler, put the coupler in, put the stay clean liquid flux on just as I have read in this thread. no matter what I do, the solder will not flow. Just beads up! So I tried the muriotic acid, still nothing. What do I do next? Please help........

Docbruw · Jan 13, 2014

Do you have a picture of the attempted soldering along with the flux and solder you used?

cyberbackpacker · Jan 13, 2014

rappell said:
HELP frustration meter pegged! ...stay clean liquid flux on just as I have read in this thread.....

Is it Harris brand? There is another brand that seems to be the ticket, but is not, and does not get the job done. The HarrisStay Clean is what you need/want!

rappell · Jan 13, 2014

This is what I used

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1389667127.802290.jpg

. Got it at Airgas and they said it is made by Harris

Docbruw · Jan 14, 2014

I used the Stay-bright 8 kit that Bobby sells and I had zero issues getting solder to flow. I googled the radnor kit you posted and read at least one other person having the same issue as you did trying to solder SS.

wbarber69 · Jan 14, 2014

docbruw said:
i used the stay-bright 8 kit that bobby sells and i had zero issues getting solder to flow. I googled the radnor kit you posted and read at least one other person having the same issue as you did trying to solder ss.

+1

Also are you using butane or mapp gas. It could be that your getting your joint too hot and boiling off the flux before the solder can take.

PleasantValleyHops · Jan 14, 2014

Any people solder the 1/2" stainless nuts ever. Just did all my kettles and couldn't pull thru two areas so had to use the nut. Ended up soldering like normal but 1 ended up leaking a little. And my auber rtds have a small leak to them as we'll around the threads on my T on my out of the mash tun. Should I use even more thread tape. Or any other suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Bobby_M · Jan 14, 2014

rappell said:
This is what I usedView attachment 172046. Got it at Airgas and they said it is made by Harris

That's the correct stuff. Are you applying the solder while the flame is still hitting the joint? One reason solder will melt and bead right off the work is that you've melted the solder with direct heat but the metal pot and fitting are not hot enough to wick the solder in.

The other reason is that you've burned off the flux by hitting it with direct flame or overheating.

This is really the best way I can describe it.. skip to the 12 minute mark:
[ame]http://youtu.be/_NkHlDql8EU[/ame]

rappell · Jan 14, 2014

Thanks for the info, guess I will place an order with Bobby.

Huaco · Jan 14, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^
You won't be sorry... he's a great guy to deal with.

rappell · Jan 14, 2014

Thanks Bobby the video will be a big help. I'll order the kit you have and I need a couple more items. Also thinking about your rims tube.

PleasantValleyHops · Jan 15, 2014

I know it's probably in the many pages on here. I was wondering if Bobby can answer this for me. I noticed the 4 holes around your fitting. Was this for added strength of any kind or were they there before. Sorry if you have already answered this.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Home Brew mobile app

RedOktoberfest · Jan 15, 2014

PleasantValleyHops said:
I know it's probably in the many pages on here. I was wondering if Bobby can answer this for me. I noticed the 4 holes around your fitting. Was this for added strength of any kind or were they there before. Sorry if you have already answered this.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Home Brew mobile app

He says in the video that he was test fitting something else on there for a prototype.

PleasantValleyHops · Jan 15, 2014

RedOktoberfest said:
He says in the video that he was test fitting something else on there for a prototype.

Thanks. I skipped ti minute 12. So didn't hear that.

Thanks. I've been curious since I saw it but didn't have time to watch the entire video.

Woodbrews · Jan 29, 2014

I accidently punched an oversized hole in my Bayou Classic pot for an electric element. The hole is approx. 1-1/2" in diameter (I'm not at home, so I can't measure it). Would this spud (in a 1" NPT size) from BrewHardware work? I was planning on an entirely weldless install, but now it looks like I may have to learn how to solder . . .

Soldering Stainless steel

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