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I usually oxygenate one second per gravity point, which on most of my beer is around 60 seconds(1.055-1.060)

Hop utilization goes up to 27-30% in a full volume boil (60min) depending on wort gravity, higher (30%) would be in a wort of around 1.040, lower (27%) around 1.070. In an extract partial boil utilization can be as low as 23%. It would help if you knew the IBU's of the clone to help with...

do you know what the wort ph is?

It's more common with kegging but it comes from over carbing beer. The simple solution is to just use less sugar. I've had good tasting beer out of the primary taste metallic after carbing, I just purged the keg, let it go flat and the taste was gone. If it is a carbonation issue you can just...

Another thing to consider could be carbonic bite, let one go flat and see if the off flavor is still there.

I think the culprit might be the combo of Vienna and Munich, these malts tend to exaggerate color. Try pale two-row next time or cut the amount of roasted barley to 2oz. Cheers

My Lab puppy eats them all the time from the garden beds...let's just say they don't digest them very well.

A good hot break is more dependent on proper wort ph rather than boil length. There is some truth that a longer boil will give a better break in that as the wort gets more concentrated the ph can fall into the proper range, but this isn't always the case.

It sure is...currently snowed in in Massachusetts, thanks for the links. Love that stuff. I do a lot of historic/theme based brews. Read your brew & A, congrats on the book. I'll have to check it out sometime.:mug:

When I use wlp005 I leave the lid partially off and haven't had a problem. Viking brew? Is it a certain recipe or something you crafted? sounds interesting, I've been watching the series, cheers.

Could be the iodine, I used to have a sharp bitter almost metallic like taste to my beers when I was using it. When I switched to starsan the taste went away. Doesn't explain the gushers though.

Open a bottle and let it go nearly flat, that will let you know if what you're tasting is carbonic bite or an infection.

Finally, should I keep the carboy or return it? Is it necessary for different types of beers that I may make in the future?quote You will need one at some point, like Wolfbayte pointed out if you need room for another beer, or if you need to do extended aging like with a barley wine or RIS...

I agree with StLou, give it another day. I repitch slurry and after hitting it with pure o2 I still get long lag times-not necessarily a bad thing, just yeast preparing for the feast. Good luck.

You can ferment in bottling buckets, just be aware that those spigots are known to hide bacteria. Extra care should be taken to clean and sanitize it, cheers.

Here's a link that might be helpful http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html good luck.

Do you have any snow there yet? Burying it in snow would have a couple of advantages over just leaving it out. Snow is an excellent insulator and it would also protect the beer against uv rays, good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Are all of your mash tun fittings ss, or copper?

Are you using well water, tap or bottled? Are you doing extract, pm or all grain?

I tried searching that site, I think you have to be logged in as a member to view it.