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I'd change the special b to honey malt, add .25 kg C120. If the color isn't where You want after that, adjust with a small amount of black malt or add more chocolate. You might as well just dump the both packets of yeast in there rehydrated, of course. Brewing with honey doesn't change the...

You've got it. I like to sanitize my lid before covering to cool just in case there's any grain dust from the mash. I don't want it falling in during cooling because of condensation.

A step mash would help breakdown proteins and give more time for enzymatic conversion, I think:D. I'd expect a thinner body from that. I don't think it's a waste of time but my .02 is it's probably not what you're looking for. Are you trying to get a thick stout type body in your IPA?

That sounds like brewing with one of my buddies. It always turns into a what the heck are we doing day.

Between friends and family 10 gal was then only way to go. I regularly split batches with friends. Plus I don't like to be the guy whining about how fast my beer went when my BIL comes to the house.

You're about 1.25qt/lb. Just in general I feel like I get better results at 1.5. Wheat has a lower degree Lintner. Less enzymes. It will take longer to convert than pale malt. I'd have to look around but I think wheat is 40L and 2 row is 100? Either way, much more enzymes for faster and more...

What is your ratio of water to grain? Quarts/lb. You probably need to mash longer and thin out your mash.

Yes, also it's easier to not oversparge. Something that has been an on going thing for me.

My .02 (not that you asked for it) is adjusting mash ph along with slowing my sparge down has helped me more than worrying about mash profile.

I use the infusion mash profile, adjusted to my preferred mash temp for style. I make the mash out a 5 min and the rise time I set to 20. I'm making 10 gallon batches so rise time for you will probably be different. You don't have to do a mash out, but it makes me feel better.

How about posting your recipe and procedure, then we can fix all your problems at once;)

Nothing wrong, I don't usually hit .009 with mash temps at 156.:mug: I assumed he meant .009

Considering your FG, I'd guess you thermometer wasn't properly calibrated and you actually mashed quite a bit lower than you intended. That would explain lighter body. Wlp300 and wlp380 have always made great hefe for me. Even the temp is more or less what use.

I'm guessing either the bag is blocking your dip tube or there could be a little particulate from the hop bag that got into your poppet. Not sure there's a good option other than removing it.

It sounds like you have the process under control. I don't really have anything to contribute to make you better. But don't stress about the mash out. I do them because supposedly it makes everything more viscous. But there was years I didn't .

My first brew pot was a combo HLT/MLT/BK. I ran off into a bucket after lifting it onto my work bench to mash then dumped grain, rinsed, and put the wort back in there to boil. But it worked well. It was also a major PITA.

If you're short on boil volume and your pre boil gravity is too high then you're under sparing. Why aren't you sparing and collecting wort up to you target pre boil volume? 14gal at .035 is like a3.5% beer...the gravity on the runnings will be low because of the beer you're making. What is...

I thought I saw one just like this the other day. Don't know if it got answered but my guess is to pull a sample without disturbing it to much. When I sample my sours I don't stir them.

I mash at 149. Keeps them dry.

Simple infusion. It's still cloudy when I brew what and wit. Probably a coincidence but I don't have and explanation for a clear what beer unless cleared over time, which is natural. Decoctions could be associated with more flavor but that's through Millard reaction. If you aren't boiling a...