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If you have the ability to do a diacetyl rest then I would, especially with something as delicate as a Mexican Lager. I did a Mexican Lager a couple of months ago and I did one but I think I did it too late in the fermentation process and it came out with a bit of a buttery taste in the...

You may see some.

You could probably go a little higher than that but that should be the right ballpark.

What is the temp of your fermenter right now? If you haven't already you could raise the temp for a diacetyl rest and you will more than likely get down to your expected final gravity of 1.013.

Are you saying you checked the gravity and it hasn't moved from what your original gravity was a week ago? Sorta confused by your question. If you feel you have hit your final gravity you could add more fermentables to your beer and if the yeast is still active it will consume and possible...

This is the series that made me realize I could do all grain. At some point I had problem watching one of the 8 videos so not sure if that is still a problem. http://youtu.be/eIGrsGPVA_Y

I found mine on Craigslist. Got lucky and got one for $25 and then some college kids sold me two for $80 that steered still half full of Labatt Blue. I'm sure it was stale so I just dumped it.

Most people strive for lacing like that. It's a pretty thing.

I use the Milwaukee one that I found on HomeBrewFinds Twitter feed. It was less than $20. I just make sure I calibrate before each use and I'm good to go. I'm usually hitting 5.8 at mash temps.

I do believe in Gordon Strong's book he states at mash temps the ph reading will be about .3 higher.

Why not just hear you strike water about 10 degrees higher and use that to preheat. That is what I do and it works like a charm. Saves gas and water in the long run that way.

I think Gordon Strong states that mash ph at mash temperatures are about .3 higher than at room temperature. So just take that into consideration when checking ph and you should be fine.

For weighing grains I have heard a hanging scale would work really well. Can be found fairly cheap on eBay. The ones I looked at were for luggage but would work for grains up to 110lbs.

Good looking beer there. My Amber Ale is about the same color and clarity but for the life of me I can't get the head retention like that in a regular pint glass. A pilsner glass will lace like crazy but not a normal pint. Weird.

That makes sense. Figured I would ask in case it was a cheap way to make life easier.

To those of you on this thread that talk about using a pump, are you taking about a March Pump? Since I use a cooler I was thinking about getting a fountain pump since it is a lot cheaper but not sure if it would work. Thoughts?

Did you add the top up water after the boil? If so maybe the wort wasn't fully mixed and that gave you the bad reading.

I second what everyone else has said about this yeast being my stinkiest ferment to date. The sulfur smell filled our finished basement so much that my wife wouldn't even come down during the week of heavy fermentation. I didn't secondary that I can remember and bottled the batch. Had no...

Depending on the yeast you used you might not see any signs of fermentation. I have only seen signs in one of my starters and it was Wyeast's hefeweizen yeast and it blew over my growler and had a huge krausen for a day or so.

It was the American Wheat kit. The best efficiency I got was from their Sierra Madre kit. Since then I have been hitting low numbers. I am going to start doing an iodine test and see if I'm possibly not getting full conversion. One thing with this wheat kit was that with only 8# of grains I...