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It's been awhile since I re-plumbed my kegerator with DuoTight fittings, and it's past-due for a thorough cleaning. I have 4 taps. I have a sump-pump keg washer to recirculate cleaning solution. What's the order-of-operations here? PBW, then BLC, then Star-San? Or can I skip the PBW? I plan...

How do you re mineralize the RO water for option #3? Straight RO water doesn’t taste very good

I wrapped some of my kids outgrown sleeping bags around my electric keggle. Way better insulation than the bubble wrap. If it gets wort spilled on it, I run them through the washing machine

I enjoy the occasional west coast ipa, but too many of the new ipas taste like geraniums to me

Had not thought of the cell density effect until you mentioned it. I’ve had success culturing yeast from bottle conditioned commercial beers that were quite old My quart jars of slurry are of course much higher cell density, so they degrade faster? I keg my beers, but I wonder if it would be...

my sister bought a kegerator and draft tower for her back deck I'm trying to help her replace the vinyl lines and extend the lines about 5' from below the deck up to the counter / tower. I have EvaBarrier lines 4x8mm lines on my corny kegs, but I don't know if those would fit a Sanke coupler...

What are you guys using to filter your wort out of the kettle?

it can't hurt to build a simple starter with table sugar, if nothing else to "proof" the yeast and get them active again They won't "forget" how to consume maltose in a single generation; just don't make a habit of it for maintaining a yeast bank The other option is to draw off a liter of wort...

also, someone was asking about the adapter fitting to go from the main supply to the EvaBarrier line: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/dmfit-female-garden-hose-adapter-5-16-push-in-x-3-4-nh-flat-inside This is what I used - it adapts the garden hose thread from my washing machine...

I do not. Was considering getting one, but then I thought if the pressure on the keg side is higher than the water pressure, yes the check valve will prevent the CO2 bottle from carbonating the house water supply, but it will also prevent the keg from refilling. I checked the gauge on my house...

hooked up my water supply and seltzer lid and ran into a problem. It's filling the keg (I can hear it slowly trickling in) but seems like the back-pressure is carbonating our house water supply! I'm wondering if there is not enough water pressure from the house supply to overcome the 30psi...

those little wine-filter screens are really good at filtering out hops. I've never had one clog I don't bother transferring the beer to a second (third?) keg - I just leave the dry hops in for the duration and serve straight from the primary keg with a floating dip tube on the liquid line

Two weeks in the kegerator does wonders on my warm-fermented lagers Total time is still way shorter since my basement is 60-65 instead of 45-50 for traditional fermentation schedule

What are the units on that graph? Is there any method in the user manual to calibrate the meter? I’ve never used one

I got that same Continuous Carbonator lid for my seltzer keg, but I'm just running EVABarrier through the wall of the kegerator straight to the outlet box, without the bulkhead or icemaker adapters

My method to chill a starter is to never boil it in the first place! Clean water plus DME going into a sanitized vessel. Pitch in billions of cells of healthy yeast in a very small volume of wort. Contamination microbes don’t have a chance to take hold when the yeast have such dominant #’s...

Fellow cheapskate and dry yeast enthusiast here. It’ll work. I draw off a liter of wort on brew day, and pitch 1/2 teaspoon of dry yeast in there. Shake the hell out of it to oxygenate, and keep it warm on a seedling heat mat. 12-18 hours later it’s at high krausen and I pitch the entire starter...

I just runoff some of that day's wort to build a quickie vitality starter keep it on a seedling heat mat for 12-24 hours until I see a healthy krausen, then pitch the whole thing into the main batch

look on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for used milk crates - they're around

looks like there is a 5-year expiration date on the sachets. Sounds like 1x a month is the standard recommendation for calibrating? Basically works out to $1 per calibration I'm re-reading the user manual for my meter - the probe is warrantied for only 6 months, and I'm seeing recommendations...