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Has anyone bought one of these? It looks great, but I'm hesitant to send $425 in to the ether after getting burned on a bunch of kegging equipment.

I'd pull wire rated for 20A and then put a 15A breaker on it. If you change coolers eventually it's cheap and easy to swap the breaker. Pulling new wire would suck.

Novare Res in Portland has a great beer selection and a cool Belgian cafe vibe. When Pigs Fly Wood Fired Pizzeria in Kittery has awesome pizza and a generally excellent if not huge (about 20) draft list.

My vote would be for either a standard NEMA or bare cable to attach our own connector.

If I can buy one of their kettles with the coil installed and the cord, this will be my entry to electric brewing. I plan to start with a simple potentiometer controlled SSR for boil power control and basically brew the same way I use a single propane burner now. Eventually I'll upgrade to a...

I used the chest freezer sizing sticky to select the freezer to use for my serving bar. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find anything as useful for mini-fridges. I'm looking for a fridge to use for the 10 gallon corny I intend to use as a fermenter. Does anyone know where to find details or a...

In packing up my house to move, I found a few cases of bottles from 2006 that I forgot about. The problem is, at the time I knew which case was which batch, but they've since been moved around and consolidated. There are some in there from a batch of double IPA that was nearly undrinkable at...

I wouldn't do that in a rented apartment though. At least here in Massachusetts, electrical work can only legally be done by the homeowner or a licensed electrician. Should an electrical fire happen in the apartment, you'd be totally screwed.

I thought I heard John say they had a 120V element for the 5 gallon batch system only, but the recommend 240 as the the boil with the 120 is more of an 'aggressive simmer'. Apartments with laundry in unit will usually have a 240V dryer socket, otherwise you're probably out of luck.

Yeah, I'm highly interested in the electric kettle. The one thing that I forgot to ask was what control options there are and the total cost. I saw there was a different version of the 'tower of power' for breweasy, but I didn't get the details.

Buy a bottle of this stuff or something like it: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/gas-leak-detector.html it's a lot more viscous than soapy water, so it coats things better. I found a leak with it that I never found with soapy water.

Great, thanks. I just bought a new house with my fiancee. In my old bachelor pad, I had a huge ugly collared keezer in the kitchen. I mentioned buying a new chest freezer to build a bar in the new house, and she was like, '*where* is that going to go?' I showed her your pictures and she...

I'm starting to plot building a copy of your awesome bar for my new house. What did you use for the tracks that the freezer slides in and out on? Do you have any close ups of how you put that together? Thanks.

Cantillon Classic Gueze and Pliny the Elder.

I get mine swapped at AirGas in Dracut. They sold me a full tank for a reasonable price and then do swaps. IIRC it was around $100 for a 10lb tank and swaps were around $15. It's been a while though as I've been inactive with brewing the past few years.

Some brewing suppliers carry a leak check solution. Its quite thick, and I found it works much better than soapy water.

It's an option at your link. Pick MFL in the dropdown. Then you need barbed swivel nuts to put on your hoses. Like this: http://www.brewersdiscount.com/item5086.ctlg Then you can connect and disconnect stuff without futzing with hose clamps and barbs.

That's how I have mine set up. Two regulator bodies, each with a Y with two shutoff/check valves on it. I use the shutoffs with flare fittings on them. They're so much more convenient than hose barbs. I don't know why everyone doesn't use them.

I think the confusion arises because of terminology. To me adjunct means anything other than malted barley or malted wheat. Crystal is a specialty malt, not an adjunct. That said, I agree 100% that for best control of your process extra light extract and specialty grains is the way to go...

I use the Northern Brewer ones also, except mine have flare connectors on the outputs. All of my equipment has flare connectors on it. I find them much more convenient than barb fittings. If I want to detach something, I just unscrew it.