Search results

Been there......had no impact on final beer.

Wow...after a week in the keg (about 3 weeks from brew date) this beer is terrific. I'll note that as I mentioned, my LHBS messed up and only gave me 5# of 2 row, rather than 7....so this isn't a strong version....but that's probably better because it's hard to stop drinking these. Friend was...

Pretty sure FFF uses WY1968. Personally, I wouldn't use the those flavor hops that early in the boil. At 20m I think a lot of that flavor would be lost. I like to do all my bittering at 60m....and everything else at the very end....so perhaps up the 60m to hit your IBU and put the rest in at 0...

What was the grain bill you actually used in this NE IPA?

I know it's been mentioned.....but missing your gravity numbers shouldn't make a bad tasting beer....that's something else entirely. If it was just missing your numbers, you could just up the grain bill a bit and be done with it. Also...you should be able to hold your temps better. Are...

I don't dry hop in keg. Just in primary. I cold crash my primary, then keg.

This one force carbed up....I'm about 17 days from grain. It's a tasty, chocolate bomb. Has yet a slight harsh edge going down at this point, I'm sure will be better in a couple weeks. But very drinkable now. Great recipe.

I do option A every time. No clogging of dip tube lines and no hop flakes in my final beer. If I don't cold crash, my kegs clog.

Your bittering sounds good. If you want to get real hoppy, go with 2-3 oz at FO.....then another 2-3 dry hop. I've gone as high as 6 oz FO/hopstand and 6 oz dry hop.

Squeezing (or dunking) should make no difference, IMO. Temp control has a lot more to do with it than anything.

CO2 isn't pleasant to breathe in....it'll burn. Don't stick your nose in there.

Does this happen on multiple different kegs? If so, you can probably eliminate it being anything to do with the keg seals. Is it the same tank every time? Or do you swap tanks?

Not him.....but I've made this brew 5 or 6 times. I don't do any of the advanced dry,hopping technique....I just dump them into the primary. I keg, and with the massive amount of hops in this...I have to cold crash....otherwise I've had my kegs clog with hop material. That only happened once...

I did probably a dozen stove top BIAB batches when I was getting started. I was doing 5g batches with a 7.5g $30 turkey fryer. You are on the right path....but I'd make one change. You'll need a 5g+ plastic bucket (if you don't have one, buy one, you'll use it all the time going forward, no...

Kegged this today, about 12 days after brew. Finished at 1.014. The sample was tasty, but definitely seemed a little dry and thin from what we were shooting for. Will see after letting carb for a while. Anyone ever added something like vanilla or coffee after force carbing?

Ok thanks. I'll probably keg at 2 weeks and start sipping on it here or there. Isn't a beer I expect to drink more than 1 or 2 at a time, anyway.

I do A or B. Then keg. I've also dry hopped in serving keg in past. But honestly couldn't tell much difference. I'm sure all these elaborate methods of keg hopping / transferring under CO2, etc....do improve the final product. But I think it's likely just on the margin. You're going to...

Wait....you add no hops at all into the kettle (other than the bittering hops). I don't see how you'd get much hop flavor from just a dry hop only.

How long have you guys been letting this condition? I typically only brew hoppy IPAs, and drink them as fresh as possible (usually by day 17 or so). But haven't made this style before.

Thanks. Just irritating, particularly when it's the first time I've made a recipe. It's bubbling away in the fermenter.