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Excuse me while I take my foot out of my mouth... Looks like commercial brewers cut the glycol 2 parts water 1 part glycol, which maintains a freezing temp at 1 degree F. Target temperature is 27 degrees F...

I think that's probably the best thing you can do for that fridge to give it a fighting chance at getting the glycol cold enough. A dorm sized freezer would work better (something like this...

Wow... Way to go Bobby. Thanks for that!

I would have shown mine, but it was neither handy nor worked. I think possibly it's just a better idea to get a false bottom... As much as I hate to admit defeat.

I'm going to try kegging some of it and see how it is carbonated. If it's any good then I'll just cut my losses. If it still tastes like barley water I'll try blending it in the kegs. Thanks for all your input, I REALLY appreciate it!

It's a blonde ale. Honey may be a good idea! Are you suggesting that adding more wort would be a bad idea as well though? EDIT: Another question, how much honey would you recommend?

I just did the calculations and this beer turned out at 2.5%... How carbonated are you suggesting I get it to? BTW I force carbonate. Thanks!

What would the harm be? Lots of esters? I was assuming that it would be just like pitching over the same yeast twice...

I need some advice... When I brewed last weekend I got a stuck mash and my efficiency was pitiful. I ended up with an OG of 1.031. It has already finished fermenting and the FG is 1.006. It's SUPER watery and I was wondering if it could be saved. I'm thinking about doing a heavier concentration...

Has anyone used a mesh bag with 17 pounds of grain or more? If so could you comment on what the dimensions were?

Has anyone had reasonable success using a soldered copper manifold in a Keggle? If so could you post pics or explain how you designed it? Thanks for your help! Edit: I should probably mention that this will be for my mash tun. Thanks again!

I was planning on throwing 5 or 6 screws in about half way from the center and the edge. I'm going to plumb my drain valve through the center of it with 2 SS pipe nuts and a copper thread to sweat adapter. Do you think that will do it?

I just picked up a 12" piece of Perforated Sheet SS for next to nothing. I just went to my local Perf vendor and scooped up some drop for $.52 a pound. So I just got a new 12 inch false bottom for 25 cents. All I need to do is drill the 7/8 hole and I'm good to go. My cut was kind of rough so I...

I think you're right... There's really no way around it. by "holes" i mean there are canals that lead into the center instead of just being flush.

I'm converting a Sankey keg into an MLT and I didn't realize that the bottom has a star shape indentation that's about a foot across. I've got a 10 inch false bottom that I have left over from my Igloo cooler and was hoping I didn't have to get a new 12 inch to save myself $50... Any ideas on...

I actually just ran into this problem myself. The answer was get two of the RTD sensors with the quick disconnect probes. You can use a single cable relay and switch them back and forth between the two tanks. The gentleman at Auber told me that there is no way to get an accurate reading on a...

So, using the wiring diagram on page 45, are you saying put a switch in between Terminal E and the output and Terminal F to L1 on the SSR?

So if I wanted to cut the power to the element with a switch would I want to put that in between the PID and SSR?

Here is what I just ordered: 6537K75 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves Brass Sleeve-Lck Socket, 1/2" NPTF Fem, 1/2" Cplg Sz - $9.33 6537K13 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves Brass Plug, 1/2" NPTF Female, 1/2" Coupling - $4.62 6537K93 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves...

Passedpawn, Do you have any issued with flow converting from 1/2 to 3/8 and then back to 1/2? I just noticed that the QD on that part is 3/8. Thanks! Wow looks Like I need to refresh a little more often on this thread... Quick responses!