Paint Strainer Bag in Mash Tun: Good Idea?

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EvilGnome6

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I saw a bunch of threads about using a paint strainer bag in the boil to help filter out hop trub and thought that was a cool idea. I'm using a 10 Gallon Rubbermaid cooler with a false bottom for mashing and was wondering if it made sense to apply the same idea there.

The first benefit would be that it would help to filter out some of the gunk that comes through the false bottom. I have a HERMS rig and the more particles I keep away from the pumps, the better.

Second benefit would be cleanup. Rather than having to scoop all of the spent grains out, I could just lift out the bag.

I guess the only potential problem is an increased risk of a stuck sparge.

Has anyone tried this?
 
Actually, I think you'll have LESS risk of a stuck sparge. There was another post about a guy doing exactly what you're talking about (except w/ a grain bag), and he doesn't have any problems w/ stuck sparge, even running his pump full throttle. I can't do that, even w/ my 15" FB in my sanke MLT. The problem w/ a false bottom is that grain kernels clog up the holes. I think I'm going to take a paint strainer and sew it onto my FB. I don't know if a paint strainer bag has the strength to pull the mash out of your cooler. I think I'd get a grain bag for that.
 
I brewed a cream ale a couple of weeks ago and forgot I was out of rice hulls. The grain bill was 8# 2-row, 2# flaked maize, and 1# flaked rice. I put a grain bag over my manifold and had zero issues. I even was able to open up the tun tap all the way after the grain bed settled.
 
You could probably use a bag, but I suggest you make a bag as 5gallon paint strainer was filled to the brim after 9lbs of grains:

from The Brewing Network &bull; View topic - How to go from Extract to AG for < $10.00
The Bag part of Brew in a Bag. This bag is a large bag made out of polyester curtain material. The material used is a "Voil" and the local haberdashery should have several different varieties in stock. Pick the one with the finest mesh. Then you need to sew it into a basically a large pillow slip with a drawstring. The bag must , I repeat must, be big enough to completely line the kettle, not just sit inside it. As a rough guide, you should be able to put your kettle into the bag and do up the drawstring. Then you know its big enough. You'll see more pictures of the bag in a bit

-Brian
 
Yeah. I'd fear the paint strainers wouldn't hold up to the grain as the were being hoisted out.

As to cleaning the tun, have you got yourself a shop vac?


Ah-Haaaa

Works like a charm!
 
Or, you can wait until I try out sewing a layer or two of paint strainer onto my FB. That's the cleanest way I can think for me to help the FB work better.
 
Here ya go. Can hold up to 15 lbs of grain. Good enough for big 5 gal batches, but not really for 10 gal batches. You'd probably need to make one yourself for that.

Austin Homebrew Supply


I have one of these and it can line a 10 gallon cooler with room to spare. the 15 lb limit may refer to lifting the grain and the ability to hold weight, as it has the volume to contain more than that.

I think the shop vac idea is brilliant. I usually carry the tun and dump it, but if my back was injured... great thought. Gotta clean that vac out though... imagine the smell after a few days!
 
I am building a 2nd mash tun so I can to 2 batches at the same time. This second one I went with the 5G round cooler and will do experimental batches along side my main batch.

Anyways, I don't have my false bottom or spigot setup yet and will be brewing this weekend. I plan on using a pain straining bag to hold the grain. I am thinking of mashing a little thinner to make sure every grain is soaked.
 
When I used a cooler, it was no problem to carry it to the compost pile and dump it over. I had to rethink it going to a converted keg because it's almost 30 pounds empty. That's when I tried the shop vac and I like it. I clean every keg in place now.

Coating the FB with some kind of mesh really helps to keep the clogging grain particles out of the FB holes. I can see how a grain bag would help. I think laminating some fine mesh stainless screen over the FB would do something similar. Gears turning.
 
I use a large grain bag on top of the false bottom in my 10g mash tun. It is big enough to fold over the top and I can screw the cooler lid right over it. In a "heavy" grain bill, I just scoop some of the grain out before lifting out the bag. Also, I had a stuck sparge a few batches ago, and just a little tug on the bag took care of it. (I can see that ending up as a quote). It does make cleanup a snap.
 
I have a rectangle cooler/mash tun. I used plastic pipe for the strainer thing in the bottom. I wrap a five gallon paint strainer around plastic tubing before I add my grains and hot water. I vorlof, I reallly don't think there is a need because the wort doesn't get any clearer with this process. I will probably continue to use this technique in the future.

FWY, I've only done 3 AG batches so far.
 
I am building a 2nd mash tun so I can to 2 batches at the same time. This second one I went with the 5G round cooler and will do experimental batches along side my main batch.

Anyways, I don't have my false bottom or spigot setup yet and will be brewing this weekend. I plan on using a pain straining bag to hold the grain. I am thinking of mashing a little thinner to make sure every grain is soaked.

This is just what I have been doing. I usually make 3 Gallon batches. It works great. Use your forearm of your "off" hand across the top of the cooler while you stir the mash with your dominant hand.
 
I've done about 10 AG batches using the AHS large bag listed above instead of a false bottom. If I have a concern, I'd be worried about how clear my wort is. I don't always vorlauf (I keep forgetting), but my beers are still pretty darn clear. It has to be easier to clean with only a valve and no braid/false bottom in my cooler.
 
I love these 5 gal paint strainer bags. I just do partial mash most of the time and they are the perfect size for my smallish 20qt pot. So much easier then using the muslin way too small bags that Midwest usually gives me for their grains. It has made it a lot easier to partial mash on the stove top.
 
I'm one of the guys on other threads that always chimes in on paint strainers, as they're f*cking awesome for folks looking to get into 5-gal batches of all grain. 1 paint strainer will fit perfectly into a 5 gal cooler. I add an upside-down saucer to the bottom of my cooler/mash tun that lifts the bag up just slightly because that little bit of slack helps the paint strainer stay secured around the rim of the cooler top.

I routinely do 1.050-1.070 beers with 1 paint strainer without any problems. But if you are paranoid about the bag ripping, then simply place a sturdier grain bag (which aren't fine enough, imho) in the cooler, then place the pain strainer in the cooler, inside the grain bag. When its time to lift out the grain, gran the sturdier grain bag and pull everything out in one shot. However, I wouldn't bother with this unless you're pushing 13+ lbs of grain. The paint strainers seem sturdy enough for anything lighter than that.
 
I'm one of the guys on other threads that always chimes in on paint strainers, as they're f*cking awesome for folks looking to get into 5-gal batches of all grain. 1 paint strainer will fit perfectly into a 5 gal cooler. I add an upside-down saucer to the bottom of my cooler/mash tun that lifts the bag up just slightly because that little bit of slack helps the paint strainer stay secured around the rim of the cooler top.

I routinely do 1.050-1.070 beers with 1 paint strainer without any problems. But if you are paranoid about the bag ripping, then simply place a sturdier grain bag (which aren't fine enough, imho) in the cooler, then place the pain strainer in the cooler, inside the grain bag. When its time to lift out the grain, gran the sturdier grain bag and pull everything out in one shot. However, I wouldn't bother with this unless you're pushing 13+ lbs of grain. The paint strainers seem sturdy enough for anything lighter than that.

Great tips!
 
Yeah. I'd fear the paint strainers wouldn't hold up to the grain as the were being hoisted out.

As to cleaning the tun, have you got yourself a shop vac?


Ah-Haaaa

Works like a charm!

Wow! eureka moment there! the one hassle of my clean in place single tier solved in a second...
 
I saw a bunch of threads about using a paint strainer bag in the boil to help filter out hop trub and thought that was a cool idea. I'm using a 10 Gallon Rubbermaid cooler with a false bottom for mashing and was wondering if it made sense to apply the same idea there.

The first benefit would be that it would help to filter out some of the gunk that comes through the false bottom. I have a HERMS rig and the more particles I keep away from the pumps, the better.

Second benefit would be cleanup. Rather than having to scoop all of the spent grains out, I could just lift out the bag.

I guess the only potential problem is an increased risk of a stuck sparge.

Has anyone tried this?

I'm not positive but it sounds like your round cooler mash tun has distorted from the heat, and is now allowing particles to get around the perimeter of the false bottom.

A fix that has worked for many, is to take a piece of vinyl tubing and slit one wall of it length-wise. Then insert the tubing around the circumference of the false bottom. This gives a tight fit to the false bottom in the cooler, and stops grist from getting by the filter.

The grainbed should filter any of the fine particles once it is set using the herms. You do need to divert the water recirculating back over the top of the grainbed to keep from channeling.

After recirculating (vorlauf) with the pump for a minute or two, the liquor should run quite clear. After dough-in, you do need to allow the bed to set up for a few minutes before trying to run the pump.
 
I'm not positive but it sounds like your round cooler mash tun has distorted from the heat, and is now allowing particles to get around the perimeter of the false bottom.

The particles that are coming through the false bottom is the stuff that's smaller than the holes. I don't think it's a matter of the cooler being distorted or the false bottom not sitting flush.

The grainbed should filter any or the fine particles once it is set using the herms. You do need to divert the water recirculating back over the top of the grainbed to keep from channeling.

Once the grain bed is set, the wort runs crystal clear. It's just when starting the recirculation after doughing in or stirring for the sparge that I get the bigger particles coming through.

In the end, I decided the grain bag idea for the mash tun wouldn't work for me since it would get stuck on my thermometer probe. I've learned not to fear having the false bottom drop out when I dump the spent grains so cleanup isn't nearly as hard as I was making it out to be.
 
In the end, I decided the grain bag idea for the mash tun wouldn't work for me since it would get stuck on my thermometer probe.

I have been trying to think of a work around this issue myself. I like the idea of being able to use a dip tube to the bottom of my cooler. (I currently use a braid and batch sparge) My current thought is to use the bag as a liner/filter and cut a small hole for my temp probe. Put the strainer in feed the temp probe through. Use an elastic or something to hold/seal the bag on the probe. Mash, stir and sparge as usual. Then vacuum/scoop the grains out.
 
I'm a huge believer in the bag. The bag fits perfectly in a 5 gallon round cooler and the 10lbs of grain inside sit nicely on a collander to drain. No false bottoms or special fittings required. It's perfect for a 5 gallon setup. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get it working for a 10 gallon system before I get around to making my keggle.
 
The particles that are coming through the false bottom is the stuff that's smaller than the holes. I don't think it's a matter of the cooler being distorted or the false bottom not sitting flush.



Once the grain bed is set, the wort runs crystal clear. It's just when starting the recirculation after doughing in or stirring for the sparge that I get the bigger particles coming through.

In the end, I decided the grain bag idea for the mash tun wouldn't work for me since it would get stuck on my thermometer probe. I've learned not to fear having the false bottom drop out when I dump the spent grains so cleanup isn't nearly as hard as I was making it out to be.

Some years ago brewers were using 13" 3M white buffer machine pads for mash filter pads. They seemed to work well. Then the SS mesh from the water supply hose lines started, and everyone went over to that as a filter.
Maybe that type of setup would help with your problem?
 
I tried using the large bag from AHS inside a 10gal round rubbermaid cooler w/false bottom. It fit like a glove - hooked the bag on both handles and around the top and screwed the cooler top on over it with no trouble. Also, cleanup was a snap. Easily pulled out 12.5lbs of wet grain which went to the compost and pretty much only had to rinse the cooler.

But, I have 2 questions.

First thing I noticed was that the wort ran clear from the get-go - for both the first runnings and sparge. I still did a Vorlauf, but it didn't seem necessary. Is there any possibility the bag is holding too much back? I assume not since all the sugars are dissolved/in suspension, but thought I'd ask anyway.

Second, is there a trick to cleaning them? I think I used more water trying to rinse the bits of grain stuck to the bag than I do while chilling. While rinsing it seemed I was getting some off, but just moving others around. And, when done, there are still some left on the bag. Is it easier to just do a "good" rinsing job and then when dry/before the next batch, shake off the remainders?
 
I too noticed that there was no need to recirculate to clear the wort. If you think about it, the whole point of recirculating is to set up the grain bag as a filter, which is exactly what the bag does all the time anyway. So the recirculation isn't necessary.

Caveat: If your grain bag is not fine enough, or your crush is too fine, you might see some husk material in your wort and would therefor need to recirculate. Bag Mashing probably works best when your bag is fine enough to hold ALL the husk material in. Of course, some people don't worry if some husk gets into their kettle, but I'm not that laid back.....

I wouldn't worry about the bag holding too much back. What was your efficiency? Mine has been mid 70's % at the low end (with wheat), and 90% at the very high end (with all Pilsner). The sugars are all dissolved in the wort, so as long as the liquid can exit the bag, then the sugars will come with it.

I use Death Brewer's tips on cleaning my bags: turn them inside out and run water over/through them to wash off the grain materials. I let them dry, then I shake out any other loose stuff left. My paint strainers seem to be lasting a long time.
 
If I get my order in time for this weekend I will be doing a 10 gallon batch of Ed's Haus pale ale. Mashing in a 10g cooler. Brewmasters warehouse has a large grain bag 2ft x 3ft, so I threw that in with my order. Should be plenty big. I do not for see any issues but I'll post my results when I get this brewed.
 
I picked up some paint strainer bags at Lowes a few weeks ago thinking the same idea. I haven't put it into practice yet, but will try it on my next batch.
 
Has anyone used a mesh bag with 17 pounds of grain or more? If so could you comment on what the dimensions were?
 
I use the "Jumbo Large Nylon Bag" from AHS - it fully lines a 10gal igloo round cooler with several inches folded over the top. They list it 15lbs, but I'm sure I've done more - dimensions are 25" x 35" (according to their site).
 
I have a 52qt rectangle cooler mash tun with copper manifold, would it make sense to use an old grain bag (did many BIAB's before tun) as a cover for the manifold? I'm thinking placing the manifold in the bag, then mashing/sparging as normal.
 
I use the "Jumbo Large Nylon Bag" from AHS - it fully lines a 10gal igloo round cooler with several inches folded over the top. They list it 15lbs, but I'm sure I've done more - dimensions are 25" x 35" (according to their site).

...then you could pull it out and squeeze it in a colander, if interested, like BIAB folks do...
 
I have a 52qt rectangle cooler mash tun with copper manifold, would it make sense to use an old grain bag (did many BIAB's before tun) as a cover for the manifold? I'm thinking placing the manifold in the bag, then mashing/sparging as normal.

...exactly, just like BierMuncher's... you can view my copycat of his in my pics in my sig. I used a hop bag.
 
this is an awesome idea, I'm gonna try it next brew day. Talk about squeezing every last drop!
 
Or make your own custom bag.. if you don't sew, find someone who does.

For material, pop down to your local WalMart and find a voile sheer curtain. I think I paid like $6 or $7 for one. Grab some nylon or polyester quilting or other "heavy duty" thread as well.

Design the bag so whatever your mashing in will fit in the bag (in Soviet Russia, bag mashes tun!) and it will be big enough... make the bag taller than the tun.. I've found that 6" works well (that's what she said..)

Voile is tough stuff. I lifted 3 dry AG ingredient kits with mine. If the seams are double-stitched then you could lift a small Buick with one. It's also fine enough to disallow much of anything to come through except nice clean sweet liquor.

I still vorlauf, because I like saying the word ("Honey! I'm vorlaufing!" "Well, don't get any on yourself...") and because the habits of 3v brewing are hard to kick.

After I mash and let drip and mashout in clean 170F water in my BK, let drip again (into my BK this time), then sparge and let drip again and finally squeeze, I dump the grains into a tall kitchen garbage bag and hand to the woman, who recycles the spent grains into really yummy bread and dog treats.

YMMV.
 
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