BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

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pickles said:
JVD - do you happen to have a source for your true 1/2" connectors?
Click to expand...

Here is what I just ordered:

6537K75 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves Brass Sleeve-Lck Socket, 1/2" NPTF Fem, 1/2" Cplg Sz - $9.33

6537K13 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves Brass Plug, 1/2" NPTF Female, 1/2" Coupling - $4.62

6537K93 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves Brass Plug, 1/2" NPTF Male, 1/2" Coupling - $4.26

They were a little cheaper and they were all high-flow 1/2" fittings.
 
Prodigalx2 said:
Do you have any issued with flow converting from 1/2 to 3/8 and then back to 1/2? I just noticed that the QD on that part is 3/8. Thanks!
Click to expand...

No issue at all. I am very satisfied. Of course, I don't have the true 1/2" QD's.... maybe I would be more satisfied with those!

Don't think so, though. I keep my flow throttled a lot of the time anyway (with ball valves), so the extra throughput wouldn't help there. And the pump is only capable of so much flow anyway... not sure the bigger orifice would make much difference.

[edit]
based on the data from JVD, I would definately get the larger ones. I haven't measured my pump's throughput, but if he is correct then it's a no-brainer.
 
pickles said:
JVD - do you happen to have a source for your true 1/2" connectors?
Click to expand...

I believe they are schedule 80S stainless steel. I also have the same size in Brass from McMaster Carr.

McMaster Carr # 6537K93 or whatever size you want on that page. They come in Brass and SS.

FYI - the 6537K93 part number also hooks directly into the matching female garden hose quick disconnects you can get from Lowes. Bonus!
 
So if I wanted to cut the power to the element with a switch would I want to put that in between the PID and SSR?
 
Prodigalx2 said:
So if I wanted to cut the power to the element with a switch would I want to put that in between the PID and SSR?
Click to expand...

Um, no. That will only kill the signal from the PID to the SSR. This will leave ONE line hot to the element, as only one runs through the SSR.

You want to place the switch BEFORE the hot line into the SSR and BEFORE the other hot line runs to the element (in my case the 240VAC outlet on the panel)

THIS will cut power to both legs to the element. Stopping current before it reaches the SSR and before it reaches the outlet in the case of the other line.
 
So, using the wiring diagram on page 45, are you saying put a switch in between Terminal E and the output and Terminal F to L1 on the SSR?
 
Hey Pol, Shuttle sucks, Republic is better! J/k Grettings from down the road.

Nice job! I think my eyes are starting to bleed as well. I've seen this post for quite a while just never clicked on it. Glad I did. In the process of building a brutus stand and gave me somethind else to think about/ incorperate.
Once again, nice job.
 
churdbird said:
Hey Pol, Shuttle sucks, Republic is better! J/k Grettings from down the road.

Nice job! I think my eyes are starting to bleed as well. I've seen this post for quite a while just never clicked on it. Glad I did. In the process of building a brutus stand and gave me somethind else to think about/ incorperate.
Once again, nice job.
Click to expand...

Soon we will all be one... much happening. Who are you? What is yoour employee number? Where are you based? ha ha

Be careful, I may be your check airman one day.
 
What happens to the Auber PID when you unplug the thermocouple, and then plug it in again? Will it go instantly back to controlling the system, or is there some sort of reset that needs to happen?
 
jfkriege said:
What happens to the Auber PID when you unplug the thermocouple, and then plug it in again? Will it go instantly back to controlling the system, or is there some sort of reset that needs to happen?
Click to expand...

No reset. It'll clear the Error message and get right back to work.
 
Outstanding, that is what I wanted to hear.

Would there be any issue with having two thermocouples on a toggle switch to change my control point? Would the toggle switch change how the thermocouple is read?
 
jfkriege said:
Outstanding, that is what I wanted to hear.

Would there be any issue with having two thermocouples on a toggle switch to change my control point? Would the toggle switch change how the thermocouple is read?
Click to expand...

From what I have read... it may... but I dont have the specifics on it.
 
jfkriege said:
Outstanding, that is what I wanted to hear.

Would there be any issue with having two thermocouples on a toggle switch to change my control point? Would the toggle switch change how the thermocouple is read?
Click to expand...

Definitely won't work. A thermocouple is a junction between two different metals. Those dissimilar metals must exist through the entire path. So unless the toggle switch is made of chromel and alumel, it will ruin the reading. An RTD might work OK through a switch but I've no first-hand experience.
 
jkarp said:
Definitely won't work. A thermocouple is a junction between two different metals. Those dissimilar metals must exist through the entire path. So unless the toggle switch is made of chromel and alumel, it will ruin the reading. An RTD might work OK through a switch but I've no first-hand experience.
Click to expand...

Great answer. And I can tell you from experience, do not use thermocouples. Pitfalls everywhere. RTD or thermistor.

RTDs usually have 3 wires. I don't know what the connections would be to get two of those through a switch.
 
I actually just ran into this problem myself. The answer was get two of the RTD sensors with the quick disconnect probes. You can use a single cable relay and switch them back and forth between the two tanks. The gentleman at Auber told me that there is no way to get an accurate reading on a toggle. This is the part that he recommended to me:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m..._id=96&zenid=c39269ff8d0f02743a6b241d1dba2e1c
 
jfkriege said:
Outstanding, that is what I wanted to hear.

Would there be any issue with having two thermocouples on a toggle switch to change my control point? Would the toggle switch change how the thermocouple is read?
Click to expand...

You could use a panel mount connector. That is how I have my thermocouple for my HLT attached to my control box. Might need to kill power to it while swapping.

This is how mine attaches to my control box:
0f4a8a32a7e525f01f443a109e02361f.gif


You can buy the connector set for under $5 from Auber: http://is.gd/5nvSJ

Hope this helps.
 
Passedpawn:
How hot does your PID get? I use two K thermocouples in my system and have never had a problem with them. I have a floating thermometer in the mash tun for corroboration. Maybe your electrical enclosure needs better cooling?
 
stevehaun said:
Passedpawn:
How hot does your PID get? I use two K thermocouples in my system and have never had a problem with them. I have a floating thermometer in the mash tun for corroboration. Maybe your electrical enclosure needs better cooling?
Click to expand...

Yes, it sure does. I have two SSRs in there. They are bolted to the case, which is a big thick metal case. I though this would work, but it has not. I need to get the SSRs out of there and give them proper heat sinks. So, you are right.
 
I wanted to build an all electric system a lot like this one, but I know very little about much of the electrical topics that are involved here. Does anyone know where I can read and learn all about this stuff without having to sift through 50 pages of thread? The whole pid ssr dipt and a lot of the electrical requirements confuse me.
 
I am hoping, and that is all that it is at this point, that I will have cad drawings and schematics for my new build. Again, hoping... playing with a couple CAD applications now.
 
The Pol said:
I am hoping, and that is all that it is at this point, that I will have cad drawings and schematics for my new build. Again, hoping... playing with a couple CAD applications now.
Click to expand...

Can't wait to see it. FWIW, I'm going in the opposite direction - I'm dumbing my brewery down. I have 4 kids, so my attention on brewday is lacking ;) Moving to 10 gallon single pot, partial-mash, brew-in-a-bag, no-chill batches. Seeing if I can just use my boil element for temperature hold/adjustment and eliminate the RIMS tube as well.

That's why I love this hobby - to each his own, pass me a beer ;)
 
Very close to having all my parts. My main difference is my use of a Ranco of the Johnson for HLT. Does anyone know if the same Type K Thermocouple will work with a ranco? I cna't remember what type probe they have. It would be easy enough to swap in and I like the disconnectability :D
 
IrregularPulse said:
Just wanted to make a quick comment about your parts list that I ran into.

The PID you have spec'd is SYL-2352. The '5' specifies a Relay output. It should be SYL-2342 where the '4' specifies an SSR output.
Luckily when my mom ordered the parts for Christmas, the Auber guy let her know that I needed the SYL-2342 based on what she was ordering and that's what I got. Just heads up to anyone copying this system like me:)
Click to expand...

Hate to burst your bubble...

Your mom got the wrong PID then. You got the Relay Output, which will not work.
Auber Instruments SYL-2352 is SSR output.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

You got this:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

The parts list is flawless
 
Must have gotten stuff backwards. (Don't have my parts in front of me at work) but knew there was something with the part numbers. I must have written the number down wrong originally from your post to give to her. I do have the SSR output PID.
 
IrregularPulse said:
Must have gotten stuff backwards. (Don't have my parts in front of me at work) but knew there was something with the part numbers. I must have written the number down wrong originally from your post to give to her. I do have the SSR output PID.
Click to expand...

Good good... that will work wonderfully. I was going to say, I just ordered a couple more SYL-2352's... dont tell me that they are not the right ones :D
 
I thought for sure you did a thread similar to this for you EHLT. I cannot find it to save my life if you did. Is there a write up? No big if not, but I know I got these part numbers from somewhere:D
 
IrregularPulse said:
I thought for sure you did a thread similar to this for you EHLT. I cannot find it to save my life if you did. Is there a write up? No big if not, but I know I got these part numbers from somewhere:D
Click to expand...

Nope, no HLT build thread. I did that one in private :D
 

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