BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

[pickles]

JVD - do you happen to have a source for your true 1/2" connectors?

 

[Prodigalx2]

JVD - do you happen to have a source for your true 1/2" connectors?

Here is what I just ordered:

6537K75 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves Brass Sleeve-Lck Socket, 1/2" NPTF Fem, 1/2" Cplg Sz - $9.33

6537K13 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves Brass Plug, 1/2" NPTF Female, 1/2" Coupling - $4.62

6537K93 Hose Couplings Without Shut-Off Valves Brass Plug, 1/2" NPTF Male, 1/2" Coupling - $4.26

They were a little cheaper and they were all high-flow 1/2" fittings.

 

[passedpawn]

Do you have any issued with flow converting from 1/2 to 3/8 and then back to 1/2? I just noticed that the QD on that part is 3/8. Thanks!

No issue at all. I am very satisfied. Of course, I don't have the true 1/2" QD's.... maybe I would be more satisfied with those!

Don't think so, though. I keep my flow throttled a lot of the time anyway (with ball valves), so the extra throughput wouldn't help there. And the pump is only capable of so much flow anyway... not sure the bigger orifice would make much difference.

[edit]
based on the data from JVD, I would definately get the larger ones. I haven't measured my pump's throughput, but if he is correct then it's a no-brainer.

 

[JVD_X]

JVD - do you happen to have a source for your true 1/2" connectors?

I believe they are schedule 80S stainless steel. I also have the same size in Brass from McMaster Carr.

McMaster Carr # 6537K93 or whatever size you want on that page. They come in Brass and SS.

FYI - the 6537K93 part number also hooks directly into the matching female garden hose quick disconnects you can get from Lowes. Bonus!

 

[Prodigalx2]

So if I wanted to cut the power to the element with a switch would I want to put that in between the PID and SSR?

 

[The Pol]

So if I wanted to cut the power to the element with a switch would I want to put that in between the PID and SSR?

Um, no. That will only kill the signal from the PID to the SSR. This will leave ONE line hot to the element, as only one runs through the SSR.

You want to place the switch BEFORE the hot line into the SSR and BEFORE the other hot line runs to the element (in my case the 240VAC outlet on the panel)

THIS will cut power to both legs to the element. Stopping current before it reaches the SSR and before it reaches the outlet in the case of the other line.

 

[Prodigalx2]

So, using the wiring diagram on page 45, are you saying put a switch in between Terminal E and the output and Terminal F to L1 on the SSR?

 

[churdbird]

Hey Pol, Shuttle sucks, Republic is better! J/k Grettings from down the road.

Nice job! I think my eyes are starting to bleed as well. I've seen this post for quite a while just never clicked on it. Glad I did. In the process of building a brutus stand and gave me somethind else to think about/ incorperate.
Once again, nice job.

 

[zinger084]

Pol - Did you put fuses on both sides of the SSR and PID?

 

[The Pol]

Hey Pol, Shuttle sucks, Republic is better! J/k Grettings from down the road.

Nice job! I think my eyes are starting to bleed as well. I've seen this post for quite a while just never clicked on it. Glad I did. In the process of building a brutus stand and gave me somethind else to think about/ incorperate.
Once again, nice job.

Soon we will all be one... much happening. Who are you? What is yoour employee number? Where are you based? ha ha

Be careful, I may be your check airman one day.

 

[The Pol]

Pol - Did you put fuses on both sides of the SSR and PID?

Me? No.

I have seen people doing this recently, though at the time of my build, it wasnt common. I dont know why.

 

[bakins]

Me? No.

I have seen people doing this recently, though at the time of my build, it wasnt common. I dont know why.

My experience is the same. So far, so good.

 

[The Pol]

My experience is the same. So far, so good.

Yah, one year has passed, plenty of brewing, no one has died, no equipment failures.

 

[zinger084]

So are you just placing them on the line side of the SSR and PID and that's it?

 

[bakins]

So are you just placing them on the line side of the SSR and PID and that's it?

I just have a 50A GFCI breaker -> wire+range plug -> distribution block -> element, PID, pumps, etc. (with switches for pumps and elements).

 

[jfkriege]

What happens to the Auber PID when you unplug the thermocouple, and then plug it in again? Will it go instantly back to controlling the system, or is there some sort of reset that needs to happen?

 

[jkarp]

What happens to the Auber PID when you unplug the thermocouple, and then plug it in again? Will it go instantly back to controlling the system, or is there some sort of reset that needs to happen?

No reset. It'll clear the Error message and get right back to work.

 

[jfkriege]

Outstanding, that is what I wanted to hear.

Would there be any issue with having two thermocouples on a toggle switch to change my control point? Would the toggle switch change how the thermocouple is read?

 

[The Pol]

Outstanding, that is what I wanted to hear.

Would there be any issue with having two thermocouples on a toggle switch to change my control point? Would the toggle switch change how the thermocouple is read?

From what I have read... it may... but I dont have the specifics on it.

 

[jkarp]

Outstanding, that is what I wanted to hear.

Would there be any issue with having two thermocouples on a toggle switch to change my control point? Would the toggle switch change how the thermocouple is read?

Definitely won't work. A thermocouple is a junction between two different metals. Those dissimilar metals must exist through the entire path. So unless the toggle switch is made of chromel and alumel, it will ruin the reading. An RTD might work OK through a switch but I've no first-hand experience.

 

[passedpawn]

Definitely won't work. A thermocouple is a junction between two different metals. Those dissimilar metals must exist through the entire path. So unless the toggle switch is made of chromel and alumel, it will ruin the reading. An RTD might work OK through a switch but I've no first-hand experience.

Great answer. And I can tell you from experience, do not use thermocouples. Pitfalls everywhere. RTD or thermistor.

RTDs usually have 3 wires. I don't know what the connections would be to get two of those through a switch.

 

[Prodigalx2]

I actually just ran into this problem myself. The answer was get two of the RTD sensors with the quick disconnect probes. You can use a single cable relay and switch them back and forth between the two tanks. The gentleman at Auber told me that there is no way to get an accurate reading on a toggle. This is the part that he recommended to me:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m..._id=96&zenid=c39269ff8d0f02743a6b241d1dba2e1c

 

[stevehaun]

Thermocouples have their limitations. That said, for a homebrewer they are more than accurate enough to make great beer.

 

[stevehaun]

Why would anyone put a fuse on both sides of the SSR? I can understand fusing the PID and the SSR.

 

[diatonic]

Outstanding, that is what I wanted to hear.

Would there be any issue with having two thermocouples on a toggle switch to change my control point? Would the toggle switch change how the thermocouple is read?

You could use a panel mount connector. That is how I have my thermocouple for my HLT attached to my control box. Might need to kill power to it while swapping.

This is how mine attaches to my control box:

You can buy the connector set for under $5 from Auber: http://is.gd/5nvSJ

Hope this helps.

 

[passedpawn]

Get the PID warm and it's cold junction gets warm. Then, the thermocouple measurement can be off by as much as 15 degrees. My experience. Not an issue with RTDs. If you don't believe me, call Auber and ask them.

 

[stevehaun]

Passedpawn:
How hot does your PID get? I use two K thermocouples in my system and have never had a problem with them. I have a floating thermometer in the mash tun for corroboration. Maybe your electrical enclosure needs better cooling?

 

[passedpawn]

Passedpawn:
How hot does your PID get? I use two K thermocouples in my system and have never had a problem with them. I have a floating thermometer in the mash tun for corroboration. Maybe your electrical enclosure needs better cooling?

Yes, it sure does. I have two SSRs in there. They are bolted to the case, which is a big thick metal case. I though this would work, but it has not. I need to get the SSRs out of there and give them proper heat sinks. So, you are right.

 

[rtockst]

I wanted to build an all electric system a lot like this one, but I know very little about much of the electrical topics that are involved here. Does anyone know where I can read and learn all about this stuff without having to sift through 50 pages of thread? The whole pid ssr dipt and a lot of the electrical requirements confuse me.

 

[Sockmonkey]

Here's a good start on the electrical stuff:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/electrical-primer-brewers-145019/

I learned a ton about how to build my electric rig from reading about jkarp's and Pol's systems, as well as others.