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Even if you filtered the beer as clear as you possibly could before bottling, you will still have sediment. Bottle conditioning will always produce sediment as you're giving the yeast something to feed on.

Thanks for the replies guys! Always good to have some first hand knowledge. Based on your experiences I've gone ahead and bottled the beer. Since bottle conditioning is a characteristic of Belgian styles I guess I can't go wrong. Still, I read that some people leave their high gravity Belgians...

I want to free up a fermenter as I want to brew another beer on the weekend and wanted to bottle a tripel that has been in primary for two weeks. I pitched with Safbrew Abbaye and fermentation went off with activtity having died down only three days later. Final gravity is at 1010 down from...

Since the first brew I've done I've been using a refractometer to give me my gravity readings. It's easy to use and allows me to waste minimum liquid. My boil gravity and OG readings have usually been spot on with my recipe calculations. Yet I'm never really sure about my FG readings... I...

Hi Revvy, thanks for your detailed reply! The thread you linked to has some great information. Good to hear I'm not the only one using this method. In that case I'm not going to change a thing about my set up. I personally use Brewer's Friend and I've always hit my OGs when topping off to the...

After many partial mash and extract brews I have recently moved on to all grain brewing and (so I thought) full volume boils. I've done two all grain batches that turned out great, with two more currently in the fermentor. To boil the wort I bought a 25L (6.6 gallon) pot with tap and a...

You're lucky it was the first addition... it's only bittering hops anyway and you're not going to get many more IBUs if the hops have been in for 70 instead of 60 minutes.

Funny that people move to cap their bottles as quickly as possible. Like BobBailey I've actually always left the crimping right to the end on purpose. I put the loose caps on after filling and then crimp once I've filled all the bottles, starting with those I filled first. I also once read that...

It should be the highest temperature the beer was at, at any point in the process. The reason being that more CO2 leaves the beer the higher the temperature. Therefore it doesn't matter how cold the beer is after its warmest stint, as the Co2 is already gone.

If head retention is your only goal, you could try a malt specifically for this, such as Carafoam. I've had good success getting rid of a lot of wheat haze by stirring in a teaspoon of gelatin (mix with a bit of hot water first) a few days before bottling and cold crash for best results. You...

Dry hopping for six days is a good time period. You don't need to take out the hops because it'll drop out with the cold crash. Many people just toss the hops right in without a bag. If you want a clearer beer, gelatin is a great aid. Just mix a teaspoon with a little bit of hot (not boiling)...

I actually let the gelatin soak in a little hot (not boiling) water, stir and then gently mix it into the top of the primary. After fermentation and any dry hopping is done obviously. You can then cold crash immediately, or if you don't have the cooling capacity, just let it sit for up to a...

Alright, then I look forward to seeing how this beer develops! Temperatures are just above freezing here for the next few weeks, so I'll put the crates outside to lager.

I just wanted to give an update on this to encourage anyone who stumbles across this thread in future... The beers turned out quite drinkable in the end. Both on the bitter side, but that unpleasantness has gone away for the most part. Many people have tried it now, and some like it a lot...

I've just made my first pils. Because I lack a refrigerator that is large enough, I used the outside temperatures a month ago to try and give it a go by putting the fermentor on the balcony. I used Saflager w34/70 and I kept checking the temperature in the fermentor to make sure it's in...

Yes, this "what has changed" approach has been my thinking too... Except it's really frustrating since I can't pin it down and none of the things I did differently should logically have such a dramatic effect. I guess I'll just have to do as many things differently as possible and hope for...

Well if pH can mess with an extract boil too, then I might have to do something about it... Is there something simple that can be done to lower the pH? Like a cheap additive or something? The thing is though, that the extract batch tasted just as bad as the partial mash. The astringent...

I'm not filtering the water, but I didn't think I need to. The water is great, as good as many bottled waters... I find it hard to believe that the water is the culprit, especially since two extract kit brews have turned out just fine with it. The flavor really is very unpleasant. It's not...

Those were the wort temperatures. The room temperatures were generally similar, but I kept the wort cool using ice packs. As I said, I had done two extract brews previously at similar (maybe even a bit warmer) temperatures and they turned out fine. I did use different yeasts though (Nottingham...

Could water pH be the problem? I read that it has an impact on mashing, but what about the extract boil?