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Bru’n water helps with pH estimation too. You enter values such as current water profile plus the malt bill of the beer you will brew and it gives you a approximate mash pH. If you for example want to brew a dark beer with RO water, there’s a risk of the mash pH dropping to low. Especially with...

Hello Jiffster, A few thoughts here: RO water has a pH of 5-6. To this you’re adding calcium and acid malt both of which will reduce the pH even further. Could it be that you’re mash/wort pH is too low? Adding only calcium chloride isn’t optimal. It’s usually best to balance out the mineral...

No but you got me thinking. Could it be the Irish moss? I added a teaspoon of it.

No sugar added, just malt.

What’s this I sometimes find in the bottom of my kettle? It’s a translucent gelatine like substance with a rubbery texture. Is it some kind of lipid from the malt?

Has anybody tried a reverse transfer using the clear beer draught widget? My worries are that the pressure might blow the tube off and that it might clog with yeast.

Starting at 16 is rather cold though isn’t it? Would be better maybe to start at 19 and work it’s way up to 24.

Will do. Thanks.

Ok thanks for the info. Next time should I skip the starter and pitch straight in?

I brewed my first Dubbel based on Jamil's Dubbel and used the WLP530 Abbey Ale yeast as recommended. The resulting beer is a very delicious and drinkable beer but not as 'Beligian' as I expected. The yeast character is quite neutral without too much of the estery/phenolic taste that one would...

I use a Speidel fermenter with a tap. Not siphoned since years.

I just feel like the more encapsualted the beer is by itself the more flavour it will hold. If you decrease the volume but the surface area stays the same there's more chance of those compounds being exposed.

My problem is that a 5 gallon batch only fills half way up the 8 gallon one and after much pondering I wonder how much of those aroma compounds off gas into that space. This Brulosopher exp made me think about it even more...

I brew 5-6 gallon batches and love my Speidel 30L fermenters except for one thing: the huge headspace. I'm sure the are more than 30L in volume. Anyone brewing 5-6 gallon batches in a 20L without too much blow off?

Yes it's a home solution for cask beer with low carbonation. The downside to these is that you have to drink the beer fast for it to retain it's carbonation. The CO2 cartridges are more for filling the headspace to avoid the intake of 02 thus avoiding oxidation. They don't provide too much pressure

No need for fancy filters or hop bags. Cold crashing for a few days is your friend. It sets the hop matter nicely onto the cake. With good practice you can then syphon off without taking up any matter. I have good success filling my kegs from the fermenter's spigot valve and by raising the...

I recently transferred my first mead to a secondary and was wondering if it's best to condition in the fridge or leave at cellar temperature? Does either have an advantage? I would imagine that like beer colder conditioning would allow for a faster clearing time right?

Thanks for the reassurance. I can stop worrying and let it ride. I think I should have degassed a bit more often and maybe avoided using such a big airlock. I heard someone recently say on a podcast that they shake their meads vigorously for the first 4 days to get out the Co2. Another...

Yes i staggered the additions.

I attempted my first mead 6 weeks ago and even though I thought I did it by the book, It still appears to be fermenting. I read of people having meads finished in 2-3 weeks when done correctly. I used approx 8kg (17.6 Ibs) to get 7 gallons of mead with a OG of 1.110. Pitched 2 pkts of...