Search results

So far I've done 8 fittings and the only two that have split are the holes along the bottom for the sightglasses. I'm going to blame it on my poor man's draw stud, it's just a 3/4" to 1/2" copper pipe reducer, which was posted in another thread. Probably a combination of that and a...

Thanks for the tip! Apparently it's not my method, I split the MLT in the exact same spot, and I'm assuming I will split the boil kettle as well. I used some plumbers putty to hold everything in, works like a champ! I also used it around my nut for the element to keep the flux and solder from...

I tried bending it back with a hammer. The split part would go back together but there was no way I would be able to 'undimple' this hole without causing more damage, it ended up just pushing in around the hole. I ended up just soldering a nut on there. Not the nicest solution but it is still...

So I tried my hand at this today. The first coupler went very well, the 2nd not so much... I wasn't thinking when I pulled my dimple through, and I put the nut on the inside. I was pushing my ratchet in the same direction and it pulled the dimple tool through crooked. I tried the fitting and...

I would be leaning towards the qd at the rtd end then.... You've pretty much replaced everything else, and it looks like a poor connection... Do you have a multimeter? You can try disconnecting the panel end of the cable and measuring the resistance across the terminals while you move the cable...

Hmm I never thought of a cfc for the mash.... Has this been done before?? What would stop me from using my cooling cfc for my mash as well? Nothing I can think of... Might have to bring hlt temp up a bit to make up for heat loss but it should speed up step times. ...?

Hmm. I recirculate the HLT pretty good. I put the output on of the MLT hose right over the analog thermometer probe while recirculating through the herms coil and I was close to 150, I believe the HLT was around 154 at the time. However my MLT temp was not rising. I'm thinking maybe I'm just not...

Are you using the FILT function in the setup on your PID? Though it won't fix the problem, it should mask it by slowing the response time on your temp. display... It's made to smooth out the temperature readings. Set it to 5 and see what happens.

I just did my second batch on my new electric setup (Kal clone but for 5g batches), and I think I screwed up my design. The only way to maintain my mash temp is to have my HLT about 6 deg. higher... My first batch I though it was just error on my pid/rtds but I calibrated my rtd's yesterday...

Yup that'll be fine. Add it after the gfci, that way it will protect the cord if it gets jammed in a doorway or something as well.

So I just finished my first brew with my electric Kal clone for 5 gal batches. Hit a few bumps but all in all it was a great success! I brewed a simple cream ale from an all grain kit, just wanted to keep it simple and easy so I didn't have alot invested in it if it went south... It almost did...

Before you decide on a 50a control panel you should double check the fuse/breaker size feeding that plug. Where I'm from, they are almost always 40a, which would be your limiting factor here.

I have the same one as well, just in black. So far so good.

Yes, there is a device attached to the male end of the cord with a test/reset button, just like a regular GFCI. They are the simplest as there is no modification to the house wiring or hooking up a spa pack, they are just plug and play.

My mistake, I guess I'm not reading that properly. How do you plan to pinpoint it being faulty? Just curious. Personally I would just disconnect the 2 hots from the element and tape them up to insulate them and turn the power on. If it doesn't trip, then you've pinpointed it to the element...

Yes, it technically could be used, however it would violate electrical code, and the ground clamps used for piping that size are extremely expensive. A ground clamp for 1/2" up to 1" pipe is about 5$. When you jump to 1 1/4" ground clamp the price jumps to about 50$ each. Also, some meters...

I have two full boxes, never used one though. I took a few pics of one. Looks like it would take up at least 1 1/2 threads as is. There is a small ridge on the bottom that could probably be ground off reducing it to 1 thread... Could be a possible option for someone else.

Couldn't you have used something like this... http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/31790 Just put it on the element before the washer/o-ring going into the kettle... Unless you can't spare the threads on the element base. I have boxes of these at work that we've never used. Not sure if we have...

Does your PID power the buzzer directly or is it a relay output? What is the input rating on the buzzer? Also you may know this already but if you haven't checked you may want to verify whether your 12v pump is a/c or DC. If it's DC you'll need a rectifier after your 12v transformer.

Hey all. I`ve been lurking for a while and thought I should start posting once in a while when I can help. I`m an electrician and HBT is just about the only forum that isn`t blocked at work so it seems fitting. I`m currently brewing 5g batches on a propane burner in my dads garage, but I`m...