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Everyone has their own opinions, but they all make beer. The only thing that is 100% certain is that no-sparge is the least efficient in terms of extracting sugar. (That's why most people sparge) It is faster though and requires less mess/cleanup. Personally, I mostly batch sparge, but will...

You are at 1.016 by normal beer vocabulary. We always measure in apparent fg. Recipes are listed that way. Yeast attenuation is listed that way etc. And the caveat - the "corrected" refractometer reading is less reliable than a hydrometer. The models are built on simple sugar and doesn't...

Either would work. Just give it time to settle before you package it.

well, the whole idea of a blowoff tube is that sometimes stuff blows out it. :) really no need to separate in the first place. Now, the main concern is oxidation. Don't just pour the finished beer around . Rack it like you would for bottling/kegging.

You adjust both. You want the gap uniform all the way across. Otherwise, one side is going to crush finer than the other. And you really should get a cheap feeler guage. If you dont' have an autoparts store close by, they are only $5 on amazon.

Sounds like your filter is just clogging. What size are you using? Of course, you could save some time and hassle and just clarify with gelatin.

Assuming you've got an external controller if you can adjust the temp. Just tape the probe with some insulation around it right to the carboy. It will keep reading a higher temp even if the air is cold. The freezer will run until the wort itself is cooled. I have the same issue and it takes...

I think the most common solution is just dilute with RO and build up from there. SO4 is always going to have something else attached to the end. The problem is that the "something else at the end" is almost never something you want in your beer in high quantities. eg lead sulfate or sulfuric...

The literature seems to be mixed. A ferulic acid rest definitely produces ferulic acid. That's the precursor to 4-vinylguaiacol ie the clove phenolic. With wheat, it looks like much of the same process just happens naturally during fermentation with or without the specific mash step...

The problem is that there ISN'T " reduced isomerization of alpha acids " in more NEIPA. As a style, it's got relatively high levels of isomerize alpha acids present. And really, the paper shows that late hop additions are benifitial in preventing oxidation in their testing. ie increasing the...

Yeah I read it. Did you get to the conclusion? "Taking all these data together, clearly, the modified hop dosages were superior in suppressing staling as compared to a beer produced with hops dosed solely at the beginning of wort boil-ing. " According to that study, all the the IPA...

Since the typical NEIPA recipe has 0% munich malt, this seems to be totally unrelated to the issue at hand.

If you bought a kit, it should come with an estimate. If not, each yeast has an approximate range listed. eg 70-80%. That means they produce finished beer where the gravity drops 70-80%. If you used that yeast, you would expect your beer to finish in the 1.012 -1.019 range (of course I...

If you think it would be cruel and offensive to say it to the guys face, maybe you should reconsider posting about it on a public forum.

It's not looking promising, but unless you need the fermenter, just stick it in a corner for a few weeks. It might improve. It's certainly not going to get worse. :)

If the gravity is stable, it's safe to bottle. There is certainly nothing wrong with waiting a few more days though. In fact, I think most people would recommend it. A few lingering bubbles and/or some yeast rafts are completely normal.

Since you seem to love all the stainless..... The stainless steel dry hoppers have come way down in price. Amazon has them for about $20 now.

The line connection is certainly going to toss an extra variable in. If you really aren't into the math, there is a really simple way to balance. Just start with 1 line and use more tubing than you think you will need. Cut 1 ft at a time off until you balance to the flow rate/foaming rate...

If you haven't seen what is at the bottom of the keg, there is no way I would transfer beer to it. The amount of CO2 needed to purge a keg is really cheap compared to your batch cost. Personally, I always completely disassemble, clean and sanitize.

I don't think it's been noted yet, but the style range is pretty wide here. If you put up a 6% 33IBU fullers clone against a bunch of other entries at 8% and 60IBU, it wouldn't be shocking to have many judges say it feels thin and/or underwhelming in comparison. That's doesn't mean the beer...