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Additionally, since water is created during combustion, there's a good chance that lots of the water you are drinking and using was actually something else entirely, chemically.

Yes, you did something wrong. To property use sorbate, you should ferment completely, then add it. Then add sugars to back sweeten. You can't properly bottle carb when using sorbate.

That looks good to me! What are you planning for approximate ABV? Obviously less O2 is best, but do the best you can with the dry hop. That's not a massively hoppy beer so shouldn't be as sensitive as a big NEIPA. Can you purge the headspace with CO2 after opening to add dry hops?

Go for it if you want! You can make it however you want. Be aware that for hoppier beer, managing cold side O2 exposure seems to be the key to having long-lasting hop aroma and flavor. Everything will be your preferences, but here's a starting point for building your recipe (I'm sure someone...

Thanks! I just measured and the cooler is ~1.75 inches wide where it would need to clip. If it is close, I could probably also heat the outside of the cooler wall with a heat gun and compress it in a bit to narrow it down, in addition to modifying the contact pad. That model is $69.49 on Amazon...

What model do you have? Does the clip seem like it could fit on a cooler? And can it be used WITHOUT an app or connection to anything else?

Now that's just being an enabler :D I've got an electric setup already, so that wouldn't be that big of a plus in my situation. I like the way you think, though.

Anyone? Bueller?

My current immersion circulator has seen better days, so I want to see what else is out there. Black Friday/Cyber Monday etc are coming up, so that would be a good time to get a new one. My use case: I generally use it in a 38 quart cooler (with a lid that has been further insulated) so that I...

I ferment in the basement with an old fridge for cooling and use a heat belt for heating. I control it all with an inkbird.

WLP530 shouldn't have attenuation that high, so with confirmed gravity readings, my suspicion is that there's something else growing in there that can also eat the complex sugars. If you think it tastes OK, give it a bit longer to make sure it's done then package.

If you have contamination with diastaticus yeast driving the gravity that low then it will probably also eat the maltodextrin. How sure are you of the gravity reading?

Let's make sure we're on the same page. What was going on with this measurement? First running is after the mash and before the sparge. Did you boil your mash?

I scoop some out with a Mason jar, screw on a plastic kid, and sit it in a water bath in the sink to cool. When cooled I pour it into the hydrometer either over the sink or in a small plastic storage bin so any spillage is easy to clean up.

If your sparge water has low buffering capacity, small acid additions can cause larger swings. Why are you concerned about the slightly lower sparge water pH? High pH from lots of alkalinity is the traditional concern.

Purging with fermentation gas works great. In the pictured setup, how is the excess pressure being relieved? You would want an airlock, blow off tube, or spunding valve one the last keg in series to let off the excess gas while preventing fresh air ingress.

Brew size 12 gallons to the fermenter

Dry hop for 18 hours or so then cold crash. After a day or 2 closed transfer through screened floating dip tube in the fermenter to serving keg. My fermenter isn't clear so I have no idea if the hops sink, but it hasn't been relevant as far as I can tell.

I don't understand what you are asking here... Dry hop, cold crash, transfer. Would you like suggestions on the mechanics of the process?

In my experience, burning cottonwood does not smell good. I can't imagine wanting to smoke anything with it. Might be a different species in Colorado vs Ohio where I am, but I'd be wary of buying a large amount untested.