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Thanks for the tip! I was thinking the same thing about the metric screws. I tried some screws I had lying around and they seemed a bit loose, looks like they're standard. I'm going to have to bring the robobrew to home depot or wherever and find some proper metric screws. Thanks for looking...

Took apart my Robobrew V3 to replace the circuit board and I lost the screws to put everything back together. Anyone know what size screws I need to put things back together? Fortunately the new board works, so I didn't totally blow it. FML!! Wish I had labeled and stored those screws in a safe...

Thanks everyone, things are starting to make sense. Turning the power on and off isn't the way to spend a brew day. Looks like I'll be building a power controller!

Electric brewing novice here, please forgive my lack of knowledge. I'm looking to brew larger batches than the 35L Robobrew will allow, so I'm exploring budget friendly alternatives. I'd like to install this element in a 15 gallon kettle, is it absolutely necessary to have a controller...

Awesome, thanks for the link! Ready to move on from dry hopping in the keg with bags, this seems like a solid solution.

I'm looking to purchase something like this: https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/S_S_Mesh_Keg_Dip_Tube_Filter_Screen_3_8_p/mesh-filter-3-8.htm Unfortunately it seems the diptube screens from US homebrew shops I've seen online carry this product instead, which appears to have significantly larger...

Yes, I just plugged my values into the EZ Water spreadsheet. With a Calcium Chloride addition of 16.7 grams, along with 3ml of lactic acid, I should get a mash pH of 5.5 and the Calcium will be up to 100ppm. Can't wait to brew, this Wheaty Brown recipe has always turned out excellent!

Thanks, I'll give this a try!

I'm using A Dr. Meter Ph-100. I'm considering adding a few ml of lactic acid, nothing drastic.

I'm brewing a brown ale and I'm looking to to adjust my water to resemble the Brewers Friend London profile, as my source water does not contain sufficient bicarbonate. To treat 15.5 gallons of liquor, I've calculated the following additions to get in the ballpark: 3.95 grams Gypsum, 1.94 grams...

I say shoot for the Saison. It's totally possible to have a slamdunk for your first attempt - my first beer was awesome and I was instantly hooked on the hobby. Not sure why so many people are reporting subpar beer for their first attempts. Go with a nice liquid yeast like Wyeast 3711 and some...

I best be changing programs then. Thanks, Martin!

I'm looking for some clarification regarding the carbonate and/or bicarbonate content of my water. For some reason the water report provided by my local water district shows a value for CaCO3 ppm, but does not contain any info about HCO3 ppm. Is that normal practice for municipal water reports...

Thanks! Perhaps I'll go ahead and do this the right way with the acetone.

Finally getting around to cleaning my skateboard bearings and I need the guidance of the homebrewtalk forum. Though this is not beer related, I have a hunch some of y'all know a thing or two about cleaning bearings. I understand acetone is the way to go for degreasing, but I've decided to use...

I highly recommend the Wyeast California lager strain. I've had great results fermenting at ale temps with it. I think you'll be more pleased with an actual lager strain rather than going the Kolsch route. White labs Mexican lager is a solid choice, too. No harm in giving it a shot. The end...

I encountered some serious scorching on my Robobrew recently and I'm looking for suggestions on how to avoid this issue. I'm using the pumpless version. Haven't had this issue in the past, so I'm trying to identify what I did differently this time around. Oddly enough, I lined the malt pipe...

So the LD Carlson yeast nutrient (containing diamonium phosphate and urea) suggests using 1 tsp. per gallon of must. I noticed MoreBeer sells straight DAP and they are recommending 1/2 tsp per 5 gallons. That's a serious difference for what I'm assuming is a pretty similar product. Should I...

Now that's a solution! Thanks for the idea. The existing fittings are supposed to connect the coil directly to the shank.

Having some issues with the jockey box I put together. As you can see, I've opted to connect everything with tubing and hoseclamps, however, I'm finding that after a few days the tubing inevitably slips off the coil. The barb connction is solid, fortunately. I've cranked the hoseclamps down...