partigyle biab?

[C-Rider]

Can this be done????

After I squeeze my grain bag I can't believer there is any sugar left to make a second beer.

Anyone doing a partigyle biab??

 

[TexasWine]

I've done it. Way overshot my efficiency one time and did it on a whim. Ended up making 5 gallons of an IPA and 2.5 gallons of a session IPA @ 3.5% ABV.

 

[eman_resu]

Mash with half your water, sparge with the other half -> two beers?

Maybe there's some info in the "similar threads" -links at the bottom of this page?

 

[Oginme]

Yes, it can be done. Do your first mash with 1.25 to 1.75 qts/lb of grain. Preheat another equal sized batch of water in a second pot. When you lift the bag from the first pot and allow the wort to drain. Don't squeeze, but transfer the bag with the grains to the second pot. Add any more steeping grains to the second pot that you may want and stir vigorously. Allow to steep (sparge) for at least 20 minutes before lifting and squeezing as much of the wort out as possible.

One reason for not squeezing the bag from the first pot to the second is to transfer some of the remaining enzymes and help with keeping the pH down below 6.0. The second pot does not really need to be of equal volume to your initial mash, but it is an easy way to start.

From these two pots, you can either do them each as separate recipes or blend as you would like to get two recipes.

 

[IslandLizard]

We've misunderstood parti-gyling, totally. You do not split your batch into first runnings and 2nd ones, and make beer out of each. The runnings get mixed together in different proportions. So your strong ale is most (say 70%) of first runnings and your mild is then 30% first and 70% of 2nd runnings. 2nd runnings do not have the same composition as 1st runnings.

There's a really informative article in Zymurgy (Nov/Dec 2014), how small British breweries produced 10-12 beers.

 

[IslandLizard]

I don't do BIAB, although I may want to start doing it for smaller batches. Plus there's the added easy to do step mashes. What always concerns me with BIAB is the lack of a decent sparge. Just pouring some water over the bag is not rinsing out the grains in the center. Once you lift the bag out and drip/squeeze, there is high gravity wort clinging to each and every grain particle. I want that! So a small batch sparge would be in place IMO.

 

[Oginme]

We've misunderstood parti-gyling, totally. You do not split your batch into first runnings and 2nd ones, and make beer out of each. The runnings get mixed together in different proportions. So your strong ale is most (say 70%) of first runnings and your mild is then 30% first and 70% of 2nd runnings. 2nd runnings do not have the same composition as 1st runnings.

There's a really informative article in Zymurgy (Nov/Dec 2014), how small British breweries produced 10-12 beers.

Actually, I don't think we have totally misunderstood parti-gyling. The act is making separate runs of wort from essentially the same batch of grains.

What you do afterwards is up to the brewer. Breweries such as Fullers blend to get a number of different brews, but that does not prohibit someone from using the gyles independent of each other.

 

[Oginme]

I don't do BIAB, although I may want to start doing it for smaller batches. Plus there's the added easy to do step mashes. What always concerns me with BIAB is the lack of a decent sparge. Just pouring some water over the bag is not rinsing out the grains in the center. Once you lift the bag out and drip/squeeze, there is high gravity wort clinging to each and every grain particle. I want that! So a small batch sparge would be in place IMO.

In BIAB, you are using a fairly high water to grain ratio. The water that remains with the grain, if properly done, contains no more or less sugars than the wort already collected.

When you squeeze out as much of the free water as possible, then you are really only looking at the sugars that remain in the grains.

In full disclosure, I have done both full volume and batch sparge BIAB. I reserve the batch sparging for high gravity recipes. For most recipes that I do where the OG target is usually between 1.040 and 1.070, there is very little to be gained doing the batch sparge. It brings my mash efficiency up from 86% to around 88%. For the time and energy input, not enough to get really excited about.

 

[IslandLizard]

Actually, I don't think we have totally misunderstood parti-gyling. The act is making separate runs of wort from essentially the same batch of grains.

What you do afterwards is up to the brewer. Breweries such as Fullers blend to get a number of different brews, but that does not prohibit someone from using the gyles independent of each other.

You didn't read the article. The whole parti-gyle process is well thought out, a system to produce worts that make a variety of great beers.

No, it doesn't prohibit, but at the same time doesn't make equal quality brews. 2nd runnings miss essential wort components first runnings have.

 

[Psylocide]

I don't do BIAB, although I may want to start doing it for smaller batches. Plus there's the added easy to do step mashes. What always concerns me with BIAB is the lack of a decent sparge. Just pouring some water over the bag is not rinsing out the grains in the center. Once you lift the bag out and drip/squeeze, there is high gravity wort clinging to each and every grain particle. I want that! So a small batch sparge would be in place IMO.

I've been getting ~76% efficiency when doing a ~1.4 thickness mash and sparging to volume (kettle size restrictions). Generally around 4.25 gals strike water.

I put the grain bag in my old bottling bucket and stretch the bag over the the mouth of the bucket and clip it in place with binder clips. I take my 2.5 gals of sparge water and pour over the grain while stirring. Then I remove the bag again, put my veggie tray over the bucket and squeeze the bejeezus out of it.

Just my method, seems to be working really well.

 

[Oginme]

You didn't read the article. The whole parti-gyle process is well thought out, a system to produce worts that make a variety of great beers.

No, it doesn't prohibit, but at the same time doesn't make equal quality brews. 2nd runnings miss essential wort components first runnings have.

Actually, I did read the article. I did not say that it made equal quality brews, but that beyond the splitting of the wort runnings, the choice to blend or not, how much to blend or not, is completely up to the brewer.

 

[IslandLizard]

Actually, I did read the article. I did not say that it made equal quality brews, but that beyond the splitting of the wort runnings, the choice to blend or not, how much to blend or not, is completely up to the brewer.

Oh good, then we should be on the same page. I hope we're not discussing semantics here. Sure, an uninformed brewer can select to brew with only the 2nd runnings, as they are, and call it "beer," and even call it "parti-gyled." But he fails to understand what it is about and how to make good beer.

When I read the article, it suddenly made sense with my experiences. Having been in more than a few pubs in England, in the 70s and 80s, it became clearer what they were doing and how they were offering such a selection at the time. And historically the lines were way way, deeper, and more advanced, also a culture. Imagine ordering beer for your family like that. Delivered in casks. Who wouldn't want to?