Soldered 1" coupling for heater element

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slakwhere

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so i had read through the several hundred pages of the solder stainless thread, and done a couple of vessels with 1/2" couplings for ball valves, thermometers, etc. now i wanted a heating element in my HLT to control my HERMS temps, so i dove in and made this happen!

for a primer on soldering stainless you may want to read this thread (or at least these few posts on how it all works). Big thanks to everyone who has done this before me, for giving me the courage to drill a 1.5" hole in a perfectly good HLT :ban:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keg-tool-152003/index3.html#post1917974

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/index7.html#post2264694

i performed the same process except using a 1.5" hole saw, a 1" half coupler and a larger conical reducer.

coupling for electrical element: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SHARON-PIPING-Half-Coupling-2UA77

reducer coupling to make dimple: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SHARON-PIPING-Concentric-Reducer-1RTW7

4633-concentric-reducer-1-5-x-1-grainger-1rt27-1-half-coupling-grainger-2ua77.jpg


4634-concentric-reducer-1-5-x-1-grainger-1rt27-1-half-coupling-grainger-2ua77.jpg


4635-concentric-reducer-1-5-x-1-grainger-1rt27-1-half-coupling-grainger-2ua77.jpg


Drilled the hole in a keg lid to test
4636-1-5-hole-saw-drill-press.jpg


Assembled the Tool
4637-dimple-tool-1-coupling.jpg


Pulled the Conical Reducer through, checking every couple of turns for size
4639-dimple-tool-installed.jpg


Got a great dimple, ready for the coupling
4641-dimple-outside.jpg


Pulled the coupling through till flush with inside
4880-test-fitting-cut-keg-lid-backside.jpg


View from front
4879-test-fitting-cut-keg-lid-frontside.jpg
 
Then went to town on the HLT for real. no pics of soldering or pulling it through the keg, but that's all the same as any other size coupling. here's the finished pic with the heating element installed after soldering the coupling in place.

4881-installed-hlt-electrical-fittings-not-yet-covered-water-leak-test.jpg


I need to build an enclosure for the electrical connectors on the heating element and wire it to the PID, but it's ready to rock! it heated 8 gallons of water at about 1 degree F a minute. that should be plenty to keep my HERMS happy, i'll most probably be using the burner to heat the HLT to the approximate temp then switching to electric for fine control.
 
I know this is an old thread but I have been reading all of the silver soldering threads and now I'm confused. Why did you drill a 1.5" hole for a 1" coupling?
 
1" pipe is not 1" OD, but closer to the ID. Given that 1" pipe has an OD of about 1.3", the coupling that it screws into is about 1.5" OD. Aside from how old the thread is, if anyone is newly reading this, I think a pipe coupling is about the worst solution for a heating element. Some of the better alternate solutions are triclover, welding spuds, and even just face soldering a 1" NPT locknut in a pinch. All of these will allow for gasket contact to the face of the fitting rather than relying on an NPS to NPT seal which requires a LOT of teflon tape to seal.
 
Thanks for the reply. Makes since.

I'm gathering up the info I need to silver solder 1" TC fittings and it has gotten a little bit aggregating.
 
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