HOWTO - Make a BrewPi Fermentation Controller For Cheap

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It's alive! Everything you loved about the prior shield, this time without the pesky screen scramble. Here's the finished product, a BrewPi with LCD, three probes, a rotary encoder, all running over bluetooth.

Many, many, many thanks to day_trippr for the LCD and Bluetooth projects, and most importantly for all of the guidance while my 10 year old son and I took on building our first board. An equal amount of thanks to Fuzze for the BrewPi building project.

View attachment 349562

Here's the bare board:
View attachment 349563

Soldered up and mated to its UNO buddy:
View attachment 349564

View attachment 349565

View attachment 349566

For those interested in replicating this, here are the Eagle board and schematic files:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwakCoACNDsmTnV2d1hxVFM0akE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwakCoACNDsmVW9XejY1OENXYW8/view?usp=sharing

Here's the corresponding BOM from Mouser. You can find this stuff cheaper if you look, but for someone who wants to click once and buy it all, here you go:

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=ceca4ae1f4

I should point out that this project wasn't designed to save money over the builds that are already listed here. If you go to oshpark.com to order a board, you'll spend $25 for three. At $8.33 each, plus the adafruit stackable headers, you're not saving any money over buying the UNO protoshield. I built this project because my son and I are having fun dabbling in electronics, and when I looked at day_trippr's protoshield soldering with all of the wires, I figured my chances of getting that right were not great.

You'll still need an LCD screen from Amazon or elsewhere and the bluetooth module if you want that connectivity.

I have one more to make but I'm probably a month or so away from doing that. I'll put together some soldering pics and a how-to for those who aren't familiar with this stuff (like me!) when I get around to building that one.

One caveat - the board does have headers for two LEDs that correspond to the heat and cool cycles as implemented by day_trippr in his build. I intend to put those on my next build with the switches. But since I didn't include them in the first build, I haven't tested the board for those LED headers yet. My apologies if anyone runs into trouble with those.


Is this the same or can I use the following MOSFET in the link below? What range or what model MOSFETS can I use?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/LBSS..._6&btsid=a1eb888d-2af9-447b-800a-7b111f346f96
 
Is this the same or can I use the following MOSFET in the link below? What range or what model MOSFETS can I use?[...]

I only see the linked N-channel mosfet - which appears to be a compatible package - but the wrong flavor.

Like Elco's original shield design, I used the BSS84 P-channel FET.
The linked FET isn't going to work...

Cheers!
 
I only see the linked N-channel mosfet - which appears to be a compatible package - but the wrong flavor.

Like Elco's original shield design, I used the BSS84 P-channel FET.
The linked FET isn't going to work...

Cheers!

Can you find one on aliexpress that meets spec as I don't know what's required and don't want to have to bring one in at a big expense from the USA to New Zealand.
 
Can you find one on aliexpress that meets spec as I don't know what's required and don't want to have to bring one in at a big expense from the USA to New Zealand.

Have you tried South Island Components?
http://www.sicom.co.nz

Or Jaycar?

They might have something you can use. Or you could use a transistor.
 
Can you find one on aliexpress that meets spec as I don't know what's required and don't want to have to bring one in at a big expense from the USA to New Zealand.

Sure - there's a metric crapton of BSS84's for sale on Aliexpress.

I don't see a way for me to view this site from an NZ perspective (it seems determined to ship to USA) but there are so many offers (including 100 pcs for USD1.68 including free shipping!) there's gotta be one that'll work for you...

Cheers!
 
I must say that I am finally finished! I tried 4 vendors for the ds18b20. I finally just ordered from mouser so I knew I was getting Maximintergrated sensors. Wired those up and everything works perfect. I just want people to beware that apparently there are alot of counterfeit sensors flooding the market now. I was shipped sensors that literally were chunks of metal inside vs a microchip. Take your chances with the cheap sensors or order official parts and know for sure they will work! Thank you to all who have helped me finish this! I look forward to using it soon!
 
I must say that I am finally finished! I tried 4 vendors for the ds18b20. I finally just ordered from mouser so I knew I was getting Maximintergrated sensors. Wired those up and everything works perfect. I just want people to beware that apparently there are alot of counterfeit sensors flooding the market now. I was shipped sensors that literally were chunks of metal inside vs a microchip. Take your chances with the cheap sensors or order official parts and know for sure they will work! Thank you to all who have helped me finish this! I look forward to using it soon!

So glad you got that knocked out, I felt bad it wasn't working for you

If your beer turns out half as good as mine have since I've started using the BrewPi, you're gonna be one happy brewer
 
So glad you got that knocked out, I felt bad it wasn't working for you

If your beer turns out half as good as mine have since I've started using the BrewPi, you're gonna be one happy brewer

The only other fermentation control I have used is a brew belt and I noticed a huge inprovement in my brew just using that! I can only imagine how this will work!
 
Please help! I have 4 different sensors and my brewpi only sees 1 sensor at a time. I have tried all different arrangements of sensors have used a multi meter to check all leads. Like on page 117 says. I found my black wire is ground and my red is vcc and blue is data but when I hook it up my pi will only stand 1 sensor. If I hook up two the sensors the one that works reads null. When I hook up the multi meter my readings are 1.5-1.8 for vcc and .6-.8 for data. Please help I just bought a whole new setup besides a pi1.
 
Sounds like the 5V wire isn't actually plugged onto a 5V pin.
Also, do you have the 4.7k pull-up resistor to 5V in place?

Cheers!
 
I took apart my system several times and put it back together - literally form the disk image on up. I thought I had it down to a science but I may have introduced an error somewhere. My room temp is "blinking" on and off on the LCD text. It shoes dashes and then on the next refresh shows the temp. Lather rinse and repeat. Any ideas?

Capture.JPG
 
I'm using jumper wires for my connections. So should I try a different jumper? Also what so you mean about the resistor I have a 4.7k resistor on my block just like the diagram I'll try and upload a pic in a bit
 
If a sensor reads .645 for vcc and .62 or .640 for data is it fried?


Actually this sounds more appropriate. although you may not get the same readings from all probes the resistance values are usually within the same ballpark for vcc and data. are you using an arduino or just a pi, because from your previous post it seems you're trying to tie your probes directly to the pi?
 
Also it is possible that your sensors are all wired differently. get one working and reading temps. make note of the wiring. then get the next one working and reading temps . maybe they just soldered wires in without caring about the colors
 
I am using the arduino. I got two different sensors working and noted like you said one had the red and blue switched but when I wired them both to the terminal block. It couldn't find either in five seconds I'll upload a picture
 
I've even tried removing the terminal block thinking it might be drawing away power
 
Look at the log window and see if that probe is throwing errors...

Cheers!
No sir, but that would have been a good thing for me to check before asking.

Nothing in stderr.txt. stdout.txt is showing a temp each time, it's not skipping any there:

Code:
Jun 11 2016 13:47:16  {"BeerTemp": 72.46,"BeerSet":null,"BeerAnn":null,"FridgeTemp":null,"FridgeSet":null,"FridgeAnn":null,"RoomTemp": 72.72,"State":0}
Jun 11 2016 13:49:17  {"BeerTemp": 72.54,"BeerSet":null,"BeerAnn":null,"FridgeTemp":null,"FridgeSet":null,"FridgeAnn":null,"RoomTemp": 72.84,"State":0}
Jun 11 2016 13:51:18  {"BeerTemp": 72.57,"BeerSet":null,"BeerAnn":null,"FridgeTemp":null,"FridgeSet":null,"FridgeAnn":null,"RoomTemp": 72.61,"State":0}
Jun 11 2016 13:53:19  {"BeerTemp": 72.41,"BeerSet":null,"BeerAnn":null,"FridgeTemp":null,"FridgeSet":null,"FridgeAnn":null,"RoomTemp": 72.50,"State":0}
Jun 11 2016 13:55:20  {"BeerTemp": 72.17,"BeerSet":null,"BeerAnn":null,"FridgeTemp":null,"FridgeSet":null,"FridgeAnn":null,"RoomTemp": 72.16,"State":0}
Jun 11 2016 13:57:21  {"BeerTemp": 72.03,"BeerSet":null,"BeerAnn":null,"FridgeTemp":null,"FridgeSet":null,"FridgeAnn":null,"RoomTemp": 72.50,"State":0}
Jun 11 2016 13:59:22  {"BeerTemp": 72.16,"BeerSet":null,"BeerAnn":null,"FridgeTemp":null,"FridgeSet":null,"FridgeAnn":null,"RoomTemp": 72.39,"State":0}
 
So at least in that time window the Fridge Temp reading was totally MIA.
What happens if you swap the probe functions between the Fridge Temp and Beer Temp?

Cheers!
 
Should I just buy new sensors? Is there an American company that has some kind of drive to make good sensors I can order?
 
Should I just buy new sensors? Is there an American company that has some kind of drive to make good sensors I can order?

From the little I understand, the process for making small electronic components would not be EPA-friendly. So, no. :(
 
So at least in that time window the Fridge Temp reading was totally MIA.
What happens if you swap the probe functions between the Fridge Temp and Beer Temp?

Cheers!
I'm not even sure I want to admit what I did.

You said MIA ... I'm thinking .. "what would cause it to be MIA?" My wife comes in and apparently I'm saying it out loud. She says "What's MIA?" I said "the temperature sensor". "Which one?" she asks. "Thi ...."

Crap.

It WAS missing.
 
I'm not even sure I want to admit what I did.

You said MIA ... I'm thinking .. "what would cause it to be MIA?" My wife comes in and apparently I'm saying it out loud. She says "What's MIA?" I said "the temperature sensor". "Which one?" she asks. "Thi ...."

Crap.

It WAS missing.

LOL! Another case cracked! :ban:

Cheers! ;)
 
fwiw, I've bought over two dozen (closer to three) 3 meter "waterproof" ds18b20 probes through eBay and every one of them worked on arrival (one eventually died and I totally murdered another).

Sure, they take a little while to make the trip from China, but when a five pack of those probes sells for $12 and they all work properly it's not a tough call for me...

Cheers!
 
fwiw, I've bought over two dozen (closer to three) 3 meter "waterproof" ds18b20 probes through eBay and every one of them worked on arrival (one eventually died and I totally murdered another).

Sure, they take a little while to make the trip from China, but when a five pack of those probes sells for $12 and they all work properly it's not a tough call for me...

Cheers!

What's the link from China to get the 5× 3m for $12 Inc freight? I just brought 2x 2m ones for $1.78 each.
 
I just spent an interesting, enjoyable, but ultimately fruitless morning trying to figure out how to add security to the BrewPi implementation. Is there a currently commonly accepted method to do this to allow public viewing of the main page?
 
I just spent an interesting, enjoyable, but ultimately fruitless morning trying to figure out how to add security to the BrewPi implementation. Is there a currently commonly accepted method to do this to allow public viewing of the main page?

Isn't that back about 300 pages?
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=6038106

OK I had to make some edits to mine, so I found the right post (again) Its https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=6594822&postcount=2683
This will get you a public page as well as your password protected admin page. Works like a charm.
You can see mine at http://narcosisbrewpi.dlinkddns.com/
 
Hello, I'm in Argentina and apparently I fell victim of the weird probes as well. Tore one apart and it says Dallas ds18b20. Flat part facing the table, pins facing me, the cables from left to right are red, blue, black. The only way for the sketch to read it is connecting the black to the ground, red to the 5v and blue to the A4. If I disconnect the red cable from the 5v line then it stops reading it. But when it reads, it says parasite mode ON.
Not any other combinations of connections make it work. When I tried the black to 5v, red to ground and blue to data, it got really hot.

I also tried connecting only two of the probe cable at a time with all the possible combinations. Only connecting them to ground and A4, and also connecting A4 to the 5v line through the resistor. It reads nothing. This last thing I did it with another probe, not the one that got really hot.

I don't know what to do.
 
Hello, I'm in Argentina and apparently I fell victim of the weird probes as well. Tore one apart and it says Dallas ds18b20. Flat part facing the table, pins facing me, the cables from left to right are red, blue, black. The only way for the sketch to read it is connecting the black to the ground, red to the 5v and blue to the A4. If I disconnect the red cable from the 5v line then it stops reading it. But when it reads, it says parasite mode ON.
Not any other combinations of connections make it work. When I tried the black to 5v, red to ground and blue to data, it got really hot.

I also tried connecting only two of the probe cable at a time with all the possible combinations. Only connecting them to ground and A4, and also connecting A4 to the 5v line through the resistor. It reads nothing. This last thing I did it with another probe, not the one that got really hot.

I don't know what to do.

I had similar probes. Since when you wire them as you would normal power and they read like they are in parasite power the brewpi will not read them no matter what you do with those probes.

It will be Best to find a known good vendor of Probes. There was a mention of one not more than a couple pages back.

What I ended up doing was ordering the plain sensors (Ds18b20 to-92) from Mouser and creating my own wired sensors by soldering on the wiring from my old sensors that did not work. I used some silicone heat shrink tubing to protect the bare leads and soldered connections.

At the very least if you are able ask the vendor for a refund since he sold you the wrong sensors. I assume he advertised Ds18b20 and sold you either counterfeit or DS18B20Par.
 
Hello, I'm in Argentina and apparently I fell victim of the weird probes as well. Tore one apart and it says Dallas ds18b20. Flat part facing the table, pins facing me, the cables from left to right are red, blue, black. The only way for the sketch to read it is connecting the black to the ground, red to the 5v and blue to the A4. If I disconnect the red cable from the 5v line then it stops reading it. But when it reads, it says parasite mode ON.
Not any other combinations of connections make it work. When I tried the black to 5v, red to ground and blue to data, it got really hot.

I also tried connecting only two of the probe cable at a time with all the possible combinations. Only connecting them to ground and A4, and also connecting A4 to the 5v line through the resistor. It reads nothing. This last thing I did it with another probe, not the one that got really hot.

I don't know what to do.


Probably the best color orientation so far… but yeah apparently there's millions of counterfeits out the at this point
 
Are you talking about the wires connected to the terminal block?

1465667781296.jpg


You shouldnt have exposed wires coming out, cut your outer sheathing so that it keeps your wires covered still when plugged in and screwed down.

Its just good practice. Especially considering thats 120V, if it shorts your blowing out your relays best case, blowing out your fridge/freezer and or starting a fire worst case.
 
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