DIY CO2 manifold. Good idea?

lombo34 said:

I do too...isn't there a check valve in the coupler itself?? I thought so...

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Yeah, the check valve is in the coupler, not the keg. Its that rubber thing in the CO2 in port on the side of the coupler.

I thought so...so theoretically, I don't NEED the shut-offs w/ the check valve in them, but for the extra couple bucks, I may even grab them just in case I ever DO have a corny on there. Thanks...

ajwillys said:

Yeah, the check valve is in the coupler, not the keg. Its that rubber thing in the CO2 in port on the side of the coupler.

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I thought so...so theoretically, I don't NEED the shut-offs w/ the check valve in them, but for the extra couple bucks, I may even grab them just in case I ever DO have a corny on there. Thanks...

I put check valves in. I figure the extra $3 per valve would be cheaper than one rebuild kit for a regulator.

Just built this for my keezer. Okay, I just added the CO2 splitters. I built the regs when I first built my keez.
The list:

3 'American Sci/Surplus' $6 regs No, they don't have any more or I'd have 6.
3 Gauges from Ebay
1 5/16 barb to 1/4" (Fastenal)
2 1.5" 1/4" tubes (home depot/lowes)
5 5/16" check shutoff valves (Austin Homebrew) (one installed instead of a plug on the 'high' side of the last reg, so I always have a 38PSI hose for sealing kegs)
2 1/4" check shutoff valves (Austin Homebrew) Don't buy these valves. They suck. I took half a roll of teflon tape and three hours, just to get them to seal. I ended up with 9 yes, nine wraps of teflon on the threads to get them to seal. And I had to crank them 1/4" turn past where I wanted them to sit. So the shutoffs aren't on the sides. The 5/16" valves were rockstar with 3 wraps of teflon, btw.
3 1" 1/4 tube (HD)
3 CO2 splitters from Harbor Freight
3 1/4" plugs (HD)

I figure I have about $120 in the whole thing.

bad coffee said:

5 5/16" check shutoff valves (Austin Homebrew) (one installed instead of a plug on the 'high' side of the last reg, so I always have a 38PSI hose for sealing kegs)

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Interesting, I thought each output of a secondary was controlled by the regulator. Does the "high' side comment mean that that particular output is just a "pass-through," not regulated by the regulator?

here's mine. No check valve on the distro but there's one on the regulator. I do plan on having check valves on the individual lines eventually. Right now I'm just protecting the reg.

jeffmeh said:

Interesting, I thought each output of a secondary was controlled by the regulator. Does the "high' side comment mean that that particular output is just a "pass-through," not regulated by the regulator?

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Exactly. The ins/outs on the sides (in the pic) are "high" meaning the high pressure in/out. It's so you can chain them together. The top and bottom outputs are 'low' or 'sec' and are individually controlled by each reg. One is for a gauge and one is for the actual output.

bad coffee said:

Exactly. The ins/outs on the sides (in the pic) are "high" meaning the high pressure in/out. It's so you can chain them together. The top and bottom outputs are 'low' or 'sec' and are individually controlled by each reg. One is for a valve and one is for the actual output.

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Prob a typo, think you meant gage?

SpanishCastleAle said:

bad coffee said:

Exactly. The ins/outs on the sides (in the pic) are "high" meaning the high pressure in/out. It's so you can chain them together. The top and bottom outputs are 'low' or 'sec' and are individually controlled by each reg. One is for a valve and one is for the actual output.

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Prob a typo, think you meant gage?

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or even gauge?

exactly. . .

camiller said:

or even gauge?

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No I meant gage, both are correct. I didn't know it either until years ago I became a tech writer, writing procedures for pneumatic/hydraulic testing. We wrote the word 'gage' a LOT.

SpanishCastleAle said:

No I meant gage, both are correct. I didn't know it either until years ago I became a tech writer, writing procedures for pneumatic/hydraulic testing. We wrote the word 'gage' a LOT.

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I suppose I could spin it and suggest I intentionally used "or" to imply that either are acceptable, but I'm man enough to admit I didn't know that. Thank you for adding to the expansiveness of my vocabulary.

Does anyone know if HF still sells those or if you can find an equivalent?

badmajon said:

Does anyone know if HF still sells those or if you can find an equivalent?

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I assume you mean the blue splitters? They no longer have them on the website, but both of my local stores still carry them. I think the regular price is now up to $1.99 or $1.49, but they were on sale for $0.99 last time I bought some.

Just got back from the Harbor Freight in Ewing, NJ. They have a lot of their air connectors on clearance. I got the silver manifold with the 4 quick connects for $2.27!!! They also have 5 packs of the couplers for $0.77 each. This is what I was there for but I wasn't expecting a deal like this. They only have a few manifolds left and plenty of couplers.

I used those quick connects, but found out the hard way they can develop slow leaks.

chucke said:

I used those quick connects, but found out the hard way they can develop slow leaks.

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Same here. For awhile, my whole system (5 taps from two regs) were all running with that silver manifold and air tool based quick disconnects. After going through 20 lb CO2 bottles WAY too fast and spending WAY too much time chasing down leaks, I gave up on it and went back to all barb based stuff. It's nowhere near as slick or easy to use, but I'm using the same 20 lb bottle since I did it (probably a year ago).

chucke said:

I used those quick connects, but found out the hard way they can develop slow leaks.

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Yep. They can empty a tank overnight if your keezer lid pushes on the hose enough to put any sideways pressure on the fitting. I still use that manifold, but have replaced the QD's with hose barbs and clamps.

bad coffee said:

If you hit a full keg with CO2 to seal the lid, then set it aside to age, then hook it up to a low pressure (12psi) tap, the beer WILL end up in the gas lines.

B

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Agree. I just had it happen a few days ago. luck i have a check valve/shut off valve or i would be taking apart a regulator in addition to cleaning a gas line.

Yeah, I thought the quick disconnect idea was awesome too, until I blew like 25 lbs of CO2 off into space with small pain in the ass leaks. Barbed Ts now.

CO2 leaks: Any time I make a change to my CO2 rigging I toss the whole mess into the pool. Leaks are real obvious that way...

The problem with the quick disconnects is they don't leak when they are just sitting there, but if they get torqued or something, then they leak.

And fwiw, those side-loaded QDs are less likely to leak when run at higher pressures. At such low pressures that side-loading becomes more of a problem than at higher pressures.

I cant ever get a leak free connection with my air compressor using these cheap disconnects. Or even the more expensive ones sometimes. I dont think I could sleep at night if they were on my co2 system. Its a real PITA for me to exchange my tank (hour drive one way)

I'm using one air-compressor QD from home depot. It's been inline for over a year and no leaks.

Are you guys checking everything with soapy water (NOT starsan) before you walk away? I usually crank the pressure wide open so even the smallest leak shows up. Even right out of the package I check everything.

B

bad coffee said:

I'm using one air-compressor QD from home depot. It's been inline for over a year and no leaks.

Are you guys checking everything with soapy water (NOT starsan) before you walk away? I usually crank the pressure wide open so even the smallest leak shows up. Even right out of the package I check everything.

B

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Yep, I submerged my whole gas system in the bathtub and there were no leaks. It only leaked with the lid closed in a certain way that pushed one of the hoses ever so slightly sideways, and even then it was a small leak. As you can probably imagine, it took a lot of time, effort, and frustration to figure out what was happening.

Great thread since I've been wondering the same thing but is this wortwhile? The cheapest I can find a ball valve with a check valve is $10-$11 from CHI Company. So the cost savings is very little if you DIY. As much as I like to make things myself, I may just purchase a manifold from one of the vendors here.

drocu said:

Great thread since I've been wondering the same thing but is this wortwhile? The cheapest I can find a ball valve with a check valve is $10-$11 from CHI Company. So the cost savings is very little if you DIY. As much as I like to make things myself, I may just purchase a manifold from one of the vendors here.

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You can save a little more money if you use separate on/off valves and in line check valves rather than the combo valves. US plastics has some good inline check valves for <$2, and plain ball valves can be found for ~$4.

Im resurrecting this thread. Those harbor freight air manifolds are no longer stocked according to the website.

Rather than brass, is there any reason why a length of capped PVC or CPVC would not work as manifold?

I'm thinking about using a short length of capped PVC and using Luer fittings, common to medical Applications like syringes, tubing, IV lines.

The fittings would be mounted by drilling a hole and epoxy the fitting in place.
Luer fittings are acceptable for gas and the pressures we're reading with are low at 5-20 psi.

Any reasons for concern?

Grizy, I've just built my own manifolds and it[s a fun thing to do. you can find that thread here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f256/next-project-home-built-gas-manifolds-scratch-511025/

Now that said, a few points. PVC is rated well above beer serving pressures, however that's at 70 deg. They would still be fin at serving temps, as beer temps are not so cold. However, I would not trust epoxyd connections of ANY kind. Seriously this is asking for pain. It would be perfectly fine if you use the actual tapped fittings.

When it comes to pressurized lines, I would not half ass them, it's just asking for trouble. I'd also never run them higher than 60 PSI MAX, put a blow off on the manifold if you are going to run the PVC, make sure you get a 60PSI blow off.

@ ezcyclone, wow, you do some intense work, metalwork and plating. i need u as my neighbor.

for tapping threads instead of epoxy, i don't have much choice since the luer fittings are barbed. I would buy brass or steel fittings but these are cheap. (luer fittings

The tubing would by 1/2in sch40 PVC. it seems thick enough to safely hold the fitting with jbweld

Thanks for your concern, i'll plan on testing in a bucket cranked up to 40 psi to see if they all hold.

If you are going to keep ahead and try this, do it in a bucket of antifreeze at 0 Deg F. Remember redundancies!!! If you are going to run it at 30PSI @ 35Deg, then test it to 60PSI at 0Deg! Trust me on this, stresses, thermal fatigue and the unknown could not only hurt you, but you could lose a full bottle of CO2, or worse, maybe a few kegs full of beer.

What I might suggest is this. Get yourself a second length of PVC and slice off lengthwise about 1/3 of the pipe. Then after a test fit, clean it VERY well, make sure to prime it. Slather it up with PVC solvent and snap the slit length of pipe over the other piece. Twist it 1/4 turn and let it sit for 24 hours. Then you will have twice the thickness to work with to tap. You will want to grind a flat where you will drill and tap first. For 1/4 NPT It needs to be over 7/16" wide, 1/2" would be best. For 1/8 NPT the flat needs to be at least 3/8" wide 7/16 would be better.