DIY CO2 manifold. Good idea?

[GatorDad]

CO2 leaks: Any time I make a change to my CO2 rigging I toss the whole mess into the pool. Leaks are real obvious that way...

 

[shortyjacobs]

The problem with the quick disconnects is they don't leak when they are just sitting there, but if they get torqued or something, then they leak.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

And fwiw, those side-loaded QDs are less likely to leak when run at higher pressures. At such low pressures that side-loading becomes more of a problem than at higher pressures.

 

[Berniep]

I cant ever get a leak free connection with my air compressor using these cheap disconnects. Or even the more expensive ones sometimes. I dont think I could sleep at night if they were on my co2 system. Its a real PITA for me to exchange my tank (hour drive one way)

 

[bad coffee]

I'm using one air-compressor QD from home depot. It's been inline for over a year and no leaks.

Are you guys checking everything with soapy water (NOT starsan) before you walk away? I usually crank the pressure wide open so even the smallest leak shows up. Even right out of the package I check everything.

B

 

[JuanMoore]

I'm using one air-compressor QD from home depot. It's been inline for over a year and no leaks.

Are you guys checking everything with soapy water (NOT starsan) before you walk away? I usually crank the pressure wide open so even the smallest leak shows up. Even right out of the package I check everything.

B

Yep, I submerged my whole gas system in the bathtub and there were no leaks. It only leaked with the lid closed in a certain way that pushed one of the hoses ever so slightly sideways, and even then it was a small leak. As you can probably imagine, it took a lot of time, effort, and frustration to figure out what was happening.

 

[drocu]

Great thread since I've been wondering the same thing but is this wortwhile? The cheapest I can find a ball valve with a check valve is $10-$11 from CHI Company. So the cost savings is very little if you DIY. As much as I like to make things myself, I may just purchase a manifold from one of the vendors here.

 

[JuanMoore]

Great thread since I've been wondering the same thing but is this wortwhile? The cheapest I can find a ball valve with a check valve is $10-$11 from CHI Company. So the cost savings is very little if you DIY. As much as I like to make things myself, I may just purchase a manifold from one of the vendors here.

You can save a little more money if you use separate on/off valves and in line check valves rather than the combo valves. US plastics has some good inline check valves for <$2, and plain ball valves can be found for ~$4.

 

[Grizybaer]

Im resurrecting this thread. Those harbor freight air manifolds are no longer stocked according to the website.

Rather than brass, is there any reason why a length of capped PVC or CPVC would not work as manifold?

I'm thinking about using a short length of capped PVC and using Luer fittings, common to medical Applications like syringes, tubing, IV lines.

The fittings would be mounted by drilling a hole and epoxy the fitting in place.
Luer fittings are acceptable for gas and the pressures we're reading with are low at 5-20 psi.

Any reasons for concern?

 

[EZCyclone]

Grizy, I've just built my own manifolds and it[s a fun thing to do. you can find that thread here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f256/next-project-home-built-gas-manifolds-scratch-511025/

Now that said, a few points. PVC is rated well above beer serving pressures, however that's at 70 deg. They would still be fin at serving temps, as beer temps are not so cold. However, I would not trust epoxyd connections of ANY kind. Seriously this is asking for pain. It would be perfectly fine if you use the actual tapped fittings.

When it comes to pressurized lines, I would not half ass them, it's just asking for trouble. I'd also never run them higher than 60 PSI MAX, put a blow off on the manifold if you are going to run the PVC, make sure you get a 60PSI blow off.

 

[Grizybaer]

@ ezcyclone, wow, you do some intense work, metalwork and plating. i need u as my neighbor.

for tapping threads instead of epoxy, i don't have much choice since the luer fittings are barbed. I would buy brass or steel fittings but these are cheap. (luer fittings

The tubing would by 1/2in sch40 PVC. it seems thick enough to safely hold the fitting with jbweld

Thanks for your concern, i'll plan on testing in a bucket cranked up to 40 psi to see if they all hold.

 

[EZCyclone]

If you are going to keep ahead and try this, do it in a bucket of antifreeze at 0 Deg F. Remember redundancies!!! If you are going to run it at 30PSI @ 35Deg, then test it to 60PSI at 0Deg! Trust me on this, stresses, thermal fatigue and the unknown could not only hurt you, but you could lose a full bottle of CO2, or worse, maybe a few kegs full of beer.

What I might suggest is this. Get yourself a second length of PVC and slice off lengthwise about 1/3 of the pipe. Then after a test fit, clean it VERY well, make sure to prime it. Slather it up with PVC solvent and snap the slit length of pipe over the other piece. Twist it 1/4 turn and let it sit for 24 hours. Then you will have twice the thickness to work with to tap. You will want to grind a flat where you will drill and tap first. For 1/4 NPT It needs to be over 7/16" wide, 1/2" would be best. For 1/8 NPT the flat needs to be at least 3/8" wide 7/16 would be better.