DIY CO2 manifold. Good idea?

[chucke]

This coupling fits into the Quick Connects that are on the manifold.

(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT)

It is sold at HD and Lowes in the same area where they sell compressors.

While you’re in the compressor area, buy two of these

(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT) for the empty holes on either side of the manifold.

Then you need to connect to your hose. Assuming ¼” ID tubing, go to the plumbing section where they have a crapload of brass fittings mounted on the wall. Get this

(1/4” NPT x 1/4” hose barb)

The male threaded end should screw into the first coupling. (One end is male and the other is female. If they’re out of one, just switch male/females around.)

Also, get enough ¼” ID pressure rated hose to go to the kegs. (Ask the guy that works there.)

You’ll need a ¼” brass plug for the hole in the back.

It will be in plumbing area with the other brass fittings on the wall.

Then, this goes on the other end of the 1/4" ID hose to connect to the Corney keg.

(1/4” hose barb x gas side)

Teflon tape for all the screw connections and hose clamps for all hose/barb connections.

Methinks that does it.

 

[jeffmeh]

This coupling fits into the Quick Connects that are on the manifold.

(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT)

It is sold at HD and Lowes in the same area where they sell compressors.

While you’re in the compressor area, buy two of these

(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT) for the empty holes on either side of the manifold.

Then you need to connect to your hose. Assuming ¼” ID tubing, go to the plumbing section where they have a crapload of brass fittings mounted on the wall. Get this

(1/4” NPT x 1/4” hose barb)

The male threaded end should screw into the first coupling. (One end is male and the other is female. If they’re out of one, just switch male/females around.)

Also, get enough ¼” ID pressure rated hose to go to the kegs. (Ask the guy that works there.)

You’ll need a ¼” brass plug for the hole in the back.

It will be in plumbing area with the other brass fittings on the wall.

Then, this goes on the other end of the 1/4" ID hose to connect to the Corney keg.

(1/4” hose barb x gas side)

Teflon tape for all the screw connections and hose clamps for all hose/barb connections.

Methinks that does it.

You referred to the first picture as a (1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT). It looks more like a 1/4" compression fitting x 1/4" male QC. Is that correct? Thanks, this is very helpful.

 

[chucke]

You referred to the first picture as a (1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT). It looks more like a 1/4" compression fitting x 1/4" male QC. Is that correct? Thanks, this is very helpful.

I *think* this is it.

Pipe to Hose Adapter
Female Pipe x Hose Plug
Quick-Disconnect Couplings

If you go to the area where compressors are sold at HD or Lowes, there will be bins with the correct parts.

 

[msaumure]

Bizoune,

Try princess auto for parts, it's probably your best bet around here.

 

[jeffmeh]

I too made mine from the blue manifold blocks from Harbor Freight as well. My check/ball valves are from the CHI company Item:05G07313

I have 2 regulators connected one to each block so I can have multiple pressures available. They connect very easy as well. If you use these, most likely the black plugs they have will leak. Don't rely on them.

Are the check valves MPT x barb, with the airflow going in that direction, that just screw into the blue manifold block? Is there enough horizontal separation to screw one check valve into each FPT hole on the block? Or is your configuration completely different? Thanks.

 

[jtrainer]

This is my Harbor Freight manifold with the CHI Company ball valves w/check valves. I have another with 2 valves on the other side of the kegerator for soda/force carbonating beer.

Yes the co2 flow is from the 1/4 MPT >>>> 1/4 barb. This prevents the co2 from blowing back out of the keg.....

 

[jeffmeh]

This is my Harbor Freight manifold with the CHI Company ball valves w/check valves. I have another with 2 valves on the other side of the kegerator for soda/force carbonating beer.

Yes the co2 flow is from the 1/4 MPT >>>> 1/4 barb. This prevents the co2 from blowing back out of the keg.....

Thanks. Just to be sure, does each block have four holes, and are they all 1/4" NPTF? I cannot really tell for sure from your picture or the Harbor Freight one. If I get one, I want to make sure I get the correct fittings. Would I need, from the gas line in, a
- barb x 1/4" NPTM to block
- 1/4 NPTM x barb check valve (two, one for each output)
- 1/4 NPTM plug (to replace the rubber one)?

Actually, I will probably jump two of them together with a 1/4 NPTM x 1/4 NPTM nipple, but if I know the precise configuration for one, I can figure that out. Thanks again.

 

[jtrainer]

Thanks. Just to be sure, does each block have four holes, and are they all 1/4" NPTF? I cannot really tell for sure from your picture or the Harbor Freight one. If I get one, I want to make sure I get the correct fittings. Would I need, from the gas line in, a
- barb x 1/4" NPTM to block
- 1/4 NPTM x barb check valve (two, one for each output)
- 1/4 NPTM plug (to replace the rubber one)?

Actually, I will probably jump two of them together with a 1/4 NPTM x 1/4 NPTM nipple, but if I know the precise configuration for one, I can figure that out. Thanks again.

Originally I had the blocks connected but only one serving pressure. Now I operate 2 blocks on separate PSIs.

Yes each block has 4 x 1/4 nptf threaded holes. The end hole had a black hex plug that wouldn't stop leaking until I put a brass plug in with liquid pipe dope. I use that when I can't get the tape to seal it right. I repeated on the second block just because so I don't know if it's a common issue to these blocks.

I performed a 10 minute dunk test to ensure no leaks were present.

 

[lombo34]

I use sanke's, so the check valves are built in.

I do too...isn't there a check valve in the coupler itself?? I thought so...

 

[camiller]

This coupling fits into the Quick Connects that are on the manifold.

(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT)

It is sold at HD and Lowes in the same area where they sell compressors.

While you’re in the compressor area, buy two of these

(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT) for the empty holes on either side of the manifold.

Then you need to connect to your hose. Assuming ¼” ID tubing, go to the plumbing section where they have a crapload of brass fittings mounted on the wall. Get this

(1/4” NPT x 1/4” hose barb)

The male threaded end should screw into the first coupling. (One end is male and the other is female. If they’re out of one, just switch male/females around.)

Also, get enough ¼” ID pressure rated hose to go to the kegs. (Ask the guy that works there.)

You’ll need a ¼” brass plug for the hole in the back.

It will be in plumbing area with the other brass fittings on the wall.

Then, this goes on the other end of the 1/4" ID hose to connect to the Corney keg.

(1/4” hose barb x gas side)

Teflon tape for all the screw connections and hose clamps for all hose/barb connections.

Methinks that does it.

You can also get all the quick connect stuff at harbor freight in the same area as the manifold you posted.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?category=426&q=coupler&limit=32

 

[ajwillys]

I do too...isn't there a check valve in the coupler itself?? I thought so...

Yeah, the check valve is in the coupler, not the keg. Its that rubber thing in the CO2 in port on the side of the coupler.

 

[lombo34]

I thought so...so theoretically, I don't NEED the shut-offs w/ the check valve in them, but for the extra couple bucks, I may even grab them just in case I ever DO have a corny on there. Thanks...

 

[lombo34]

Yeah, the check valve is in the coupler, not the keg. Its that rubber thing in the CO2 in port on the side of the coupler.

I thought so...so theoretically, I don't NEED the shut-offs w/ the check valve in them, but for the extra couple bucks, I may even grab them just in case I ever DO have a corny on there. Thanks...

 

[bad coffee]

I put check valves in. I figure the extra $3 per valve would be cheaper than one rebuild kit for a regulator.

Just built this for my keezer. Okay, I just added the CO2 splitters. I built the regs when I first built my keez.
The list:

3 'American Sci/Surplus' $6 regs No, they don't have any more or I'd have 6.
3 Gauges from Ebay
1 5/16 barb to 1/4" (Fastenal)
2 1.5" 1/4" tubes (home depot/lowes)
5 5/16" check shutoff valves (Austin Homebrew) (one installed instead of a plug on the 'high' side of the last reg, so I always have a 38PSI hose for sealing kegs)
2 1/4" check shutoff valves (Austin Homebrew) Don't buy these valves. They suck. I took half a roll of teflon tape and three hours, just to get them to seal. I ended up with 9 yes, nine wraps of teflon on the threads to get them to seal. And I had to crank them 1/4" turn past where I wanted them to sit. So the shutoffs aren't on the sides. The 5/16" valves were rockstar with 3 wraps of teflon, btw.
3 1" 1/4 tube (HD)
3 CO2 splitters from Harbor Freight
3 1/4" plugs (HD)

I figure I have about $120 in the whole thing.

 

[jeffmeh]

5 5/16" check shutoff valves (Austin Homebrew) (one installed instead of a plug on the 'high' side of the last reg, so I always have a 38PSI hose for sealing kegs)

Interesting, I thought each output of a secondary was controlled by the regulator. Does the "high' side comment mean that that particular output is just a "pass-through," not regulated by the regulator?

 

[Brewing Clamper]

here's mine. No check valve on the distro but there's one on the regulator. I do plan on having check valves on the individual lines eventually. Right now I'm just protecting the reg.

 

[bad coffee]

Interesting, I thought each output of a secondary was controlled by the regulator. Does the "high' side comment mean that that particular output is just a "pass-through," not regulated by the regulator?

Exactly. The ins/outs on the sides (in the pic) are "high" meaning the high pressure in/out. It's so you can chain them together. The top and bottom outputs are 'low' or 'sec' and are individually controlled by each reg. One is for a gauge and one is for the actual output.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

Exactly. The ins/outs on the sides (in the pic) are "high" meaning the high pressure in/out. It's so you can chain them together. The top and bottom outputs are 'low' or 'sec' and are individually controlled by each reg. One is for a valve and one is for the actual output.

Prob a typo, think you meant gage?

 

[camiller]

Exactly. The ins/outs on the sides (in the pic) are "high" meaning the high pressure in/out. It's so you can chain them together. The top and bottom outputs are 'low' or 'sec' and are individually controlled by each reg. One is for a valve and one is for the actual output.

Prob a typo, think you meant gage?

or even gauge?

 

[bad coffee]

exactly. . .

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

or even gauge?

No I meant gage, both are correct. I didn't know it either until years ago I became a tech writer, writing procedures for pneumatic/hydraulic testing. We wrote the word 'gage' a LOT.

 

[camiller]

No I meant gage, both are correct. I didn't know it either until years ago I became a tech writer, writing procedures for pneumatic/hydraulic testing. We wrote the word 'gage' a LOT.

I suppose I could spin it and suggest I intentionally used "or" to imply that either are acceptable, but I'm man enough to admit I didn't know that. Thank you for adding to the expansiveness of my vocabulary.

 

[badmajon]

Does anyone know if HF still sells those or if you can find an equivalent?

 

[JuanMoore]

Does anyone know if HF still sells those or if you can find an equivalent?

I assume you mean the blue splitters? They no longer have them on the website, but both of my local stores still carry them. I think the regular price is now up to $1.99 or $1.49, but they were on sale for $0.99 last time I bought some.

 

[summerofgeorge]

Just got back from the Harbor Freight in Ewing, NJ. They have a lot of their air connectors on clearance. I got the silver manifold with the 4 quick connects for $2.27!!! They also have 5 packs of the couplers for $0.77 each. This is what I was there for but I wasn't expecting a deal like this. They only have a few manifolds left and plenty of couplers.

 

[chucke]

I used those quick connects, but found out the hard way they can develop slow leaks.

 

[ajwillys]

I used those quick connects, but found out the hard way they can develop slow leaks.

Same here. For awhile, my whole system (5 taps from two regs) were all running with that silver manifold and air tool based quick disconnects. After going through 20 lb CO2 bottles WAY too fast and spending WAY too much time chasing down leaks, I gave up on it and went back to all barb based stuff. It's nowhere near as slick or easy to use, but I'm using the same 20 lb bottle since I did it (probably a year ago).

 

[JuanMoore]

I used those quick connects, but found out the hard way they can develop slow leaks.

Yep. They can empty a tank overnight if your keezer lid pushes on the hose enough to put any sideways pressure on the fitting. I still use that manifold, but have replaced the QD's with hose barbs and clamps.

 

[rekoob]

If you hit a full keg with CO2 to seal the lid, then set it aside to age, then hook it up to a low pressure (12psi) tap, the beer WILL end up in the gas lines.

B

Agree. I just had it happen a few days ago. luck i have a check valve/shut off valve or i would be taking apart a regulator in addition to cleaning a gas line.

 

[shortyjacobs]

Yeah, I thought the quick disconnect idea was awesome too, until I blew like 25 lbs of CO2 off into space with small pain in the ass leaks. Barbed Ts now.