MgMt_Home_Brew
Well-Known Member
Yeah i thought of that but I sort of wanted to use the dip tube as the top portion of a mash paddle or something like that.
Cutting top off a Sanke keg using angle grinder
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Yeah i thought of that but I sort of wanted to use the dip tube as the top portion of a mash paddle or something like that.
rex
Well-Known Member
I used a jig and grinder on mine...no problems ...fast and simple.
But...I made my hole about 11 1/2 inches...instead of 12. I bought a 12 inch cover but of course it's just that little bit too big.
Any safe efficient way to remove that 1/2 inch???
But...I made my hole about 11 1/2 inches...instead of 12. I bought a 12 inch cover but of course it's just that little bit too big.
Any safe efficient way to remove that 1/2 inch???
justbrewit
Zythos Conisseur
I didn't have any of the above mentioned tools and still don't. I do however have a dremel tool and a ton of cut-off wheels. Took forever, but I didn't have anything better to do. My goal was attained, I have a keg with the top cut off!
Yeah i thought of that but I sort of wanted to use the dip tube as the top portion of a mash paddle or something like that.
Actually, that part that goes into the recess is removable from the rest of the dip tube. I guess all you'd have to do is remove the gasket and grind off the tabs that lock it into the top of the keg, then it would rotate free.
MgMt_Home_Brew
Well-Known Member
So I am assuming I would be able to put it all back together again right? I will have to take a look at it once I get home. I have time anyway since I have to wait for the tools.
conpewter
Well-Known Member
That's how I used it on my jig. If I built the jig again though I think I'd build it to go around the outside of the collar, I had 2 kegs I couldn't get the dip tube out of (Some Miller kegs that had a weird safety latch)
MgMt_Home_Brew
Well-Known Member
interusting. Do you think the diameter of a soda can be too large to fit over it nicely? That would be sweet if I could use something like that or another can of some sort.
I'd think an aluminum can would be too flimsy, even if it fit.
Mine is a G-system (Fuller's) keg, and it has a weird circular collar on it that's flattened on three sides. I don't think I can get it to come off. I'm thinking I'll use the rail around the top of the keg as a guide for the grinder body and try to cut a circle that way.
Mine is a G-system (Fuller's) keg, and it has a weird circular collar on it that's flattened on three sides. I don't think I can get it to come off. I'm thinking I'll use the rail around the top of the keg as a guide for the grinder body and try to cut a circle that way.
greenbirds
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I started the cut with a dremel w/ cutoff wheel so I could get my jigsaw started (cheap $30 skilsaw) with an 18 TPI bi-metal blade. Said it was for cutting 1/16-1/4" metal. They were quality Lenox blades, and it took 2 of them to get all the way around. I am by no means a pro with the saw, either. just kept it going full throttle but did not force it, let the blade do its job. I was very surprised how smoothly it cut; barely had to do any deburring.
WC87
Well-Known Member
Is a 'cut-off' wheel the same as a 'cutting' wheel'? I've borrowed a buddy's 4.5" angle grinder but need a blade - the yokels at Home Depot were trying to sell me a masonry/concrete blade for around $60.00 I saw some blades that said Metal (thin, but no teeth) and some that said 'Stainless Steel' which were thicker than the Metal blade (but still no teeth) looked to be similar to the OP's blade. The scholars at Home Depot and even a customer were telling me No No No those will never work, yadda yadda yadda...
Help...?
Nevermind, I think I got it. Something like this should work I think.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=292621-70-DW8851&lpage=none
Help...?
Nevermind, I think I got it. Something like this should work I think.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=292621-70-DW8851&lpage=none
godofcheese
Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever used an air nibbler to do this? Should get you a much cleaner cut.
that's exactly what i've used to cut 2 kegs. worked great, just get a couple in case one breaks. also get a flap disc to knock down any edges for safety reasons
WC87
Well-Known Member
AND I've cut my first keg! Built the 'Bobby Jig', took my time, and voila top is cut off! Did make one mistake, and that was cutting thru all one side before the other side was ready to go, and the top fell from that side with about 6" of steel needing to be cut 180 deg opposite. Propped up the lid with a piece of wood going underneath the lid and over the cut lip and finished my cut, but it wasn't as clean as the opposite side. A bit of grinding cleaned it up acceptable to my tastes, and no sharp edges...
Damn! Sparks, noise and power tools always make you feel like a man.
Damn! Sparks, noise and power tools always make you feel like a man.
WC87
Well-Known Member
Rick, saw your polished keg, that's sweet! What wheels did you use?
WC87
Well-Known Member
Ok, I'll check it out. For my 1 keggle (or first) I think I can go the extra mile and bling it. Thanks.
godofcheese
Well-Known Member
AND I've cut my first keg! Built the 'Bobby Jig', took my time, and voila top is cut off! Did make one mistake, and that was cutting thru all one side before the other side was ready to go, and the top fell from that side with about 6" of steel needing to be cut 180 deg opposite. Propped up the lid with a piece of wood going underneath the lid and over the cut lip and finished my cut, but it wasn't as clean as the opposite side. A bit of grinding cleaned it up acceptable to my tastes, and no sharp edges...
Damn! Sparks, noise and power tools always make you feel like a man.
See, don't listen to the people at the local big home improvement stores. Neither of the ones here know much about metal stuff. Wood, remodeling and such the people at Home Depot know their stuff. Metal not so much.
Also, glad to see someone else from aggieland on here.
MgMt_Home_Brew
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I just wanted to say thanks! Especially to bobby for that video which helped me build my jig. I couldn't believe how fast it went once I got that jig built. I now have to figure out where to drill my hole and order my fittings and I will be all set.
Thanks again for all the help with tool selection and the general process.
Thanks again for all the help with tool selection and the general process.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
Yup only after I talked to a factory rep for IR (Ingersoll Rand) for my model 325 Air Nibbler that cost me $149. He said to use it as a demo for the 304 stainless. I said i'll regulate the 3,200 cps down to under 1,000 and use high sulfur pipe threading oil under a constant squirt on the cutting head. What a mess. He said if it fails he at the I R company will replace it free. I drilled a hole first then got just past 1/3 of the way around before the "edge went away", another 2" more was all she wrote gone totally useless. Out came Mr. Hypertherm Max 20 Plasma to finish the job. A Brass slug out of 3/4 " stock with a step shoulder that fits into and on top the neck with a step shank aircraft bolt to 3/8" x 1 1/2" bar stock out to the kegs skirt having an offset to a wood spacer and gear clamps for the Plasma torch head to complete the job. I R within 8 working days sent me a complete cutting head as I sent them my wasted cutting head off my nibbler. This was a test by them and a question by a factory rep (AKA Bier Drinker) that also had the same question about cutting a bier keg top. Besides grinders with a wheel, Carbide is the only thing that comes to mind cutting stainless, this thru a my machining of stainless as well a person that makes a living out of stainless only for anything relating to marine from machining to welding stainless railings.
shoebag22
Well-Known Member
greenbirds
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The thin, flexible ones are for sanding. The slightly thicker rigid ones are cut-off wheels. If you flex them at all (or step on them, or apply any sideways pressure while cutting) they will break.
justbrewit
Zythos Conisseur
The ones in the little tube that are hard and fragile are the ones I used. Any side pressure, a loud noise, a fart, anything will make em break. I think I used about 20 or 30 of those things to take the top off the keg. It sucked, but it worked and I had 3 of 4 tubes of them so no biggie. WEAR EAR PLUGS! Lol it was hella loud
MgMt_Home_Brew
Well-Known Member
I just wanted to thank you guys for the inspiration and know how that I used to buy the tools I needed and get it done right. The first keg I cut had a smaller hole then I wanted so I modified the guard on the grinder and the second keg it where I wanted it.
Once I cut them open I used the step drill bits that I bought and drilled out holes for the spigot and sight glass. I had a friend print off some decals to mark my gallon and half gallon marks and this is the final result... thanks again guys!
Once I cut them open I used the step drill bits that I bought and drilled out holes for the spigot and sight glass. I had a friend print off some decals to mark my gallon and half gallon marks and this is the final result... thanks again guys!
Very cool but did you double check the gallon marks? It looks like your 14 is where my 15 would be.
MgMt_Home_Brew
Well-Known Member
Yeah ... with the diptube that i made I had .62 gallons of dead space. So I filled the deadspace with water and then began my half gallon increments. I struggled with this idea and I am still not sure if I did it the best way that I could. But at this point it's done and I think I am going to just replicate the dip tube so the dead space is the same in all 3 of my vessels.
That is unless people convince me otherwise.
That is unless people convince me otherwise.
SilverKing
Well-Known Member
Thanks for everyone's input and Bobby's design I cut 2 of these today. Except for one spot where my grinder slipped loose and dropped(goodbye disc), they're perfect circles. The trick for me was to just cut barley into the surface and work back and forth in circles to get down through the steel. Instead of cutting straight through and then working sideways.
Had to use a couple wedge shims to level things out once it was assembled. The top ring on these kegs are a little banged up and not always level. Maybe a touch over-designed, but it's built to last for any others I'll have to cut in the future.
Also I used the disassembled keg spear for a centering post. I had to grind the tabs off it. Worked great.
Had to use a couple wedge shims to level things out once it was assembled. The top ring on these kegs are a little banged up and not always level. Maybe a touch over-designed, but it's built to last for any others I'll have to cut in the future.
Also I used the disassembled keg spear for a centering post. I had to grind the tabs off it. Worked great.
Looks great!
For those intimidated by the jig: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simplest-keggle-cutting-jig-143048/#post1627203
For those intimidated by the jig: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simplest-keggle-cutting-jig-143048/#post1627203
New-B-Brewer
Well-Known Member
does anyone have a jig that uses the rim instead of center as the guide? I will soon be acquiring the last 2 kegs I need to make a 3 tier system and then will have to cut off the lids and drill all 3 kegs, I'm thinking the rim is a lot more stable throughout the cutting process than the center is. I don't yet a grinder yet so I havent been able to start playing with a jig yet.
it is more stable than you think. I made my jig long enough that the "arm" lay on the rim of the keg letting me adjust the pressure . I have done 3 kegs now, 1 with a rim that was totally banged up, and still made a perfect cut.
You don't need a jig if you're using the rim as a guide, although if you're cutting multiple kegs, it might be worth the effort to build one.
Here's how I cut mine:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/jig-free-keggle-cut-125911/
mplutodh1
Well-Known Member
Has anyone had any problems with the cheap angle grinders from Harbor Freight. I don't have a regular need for an angle grinder but will be needing one to cut the top off our Sankes and polishing them up with GatorGrit pads.
This one is under $20 right now at HF - anyone had luck with it? or does it burn out with prolonged use?
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=43471
This one is under $20 right now at HF - anyone had luck with it? or does it burn out with prolonged use?
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=43471
llenrocs
Well-Known Member
I bought a cheap pneumatic high speed cutter from Harbor Freight to cut my keg. Haven't done the deed yet, but the guard should follow the rim pretty well. It was 1/2 off, so only $8 when I bought it. If I get around to cutting it this weekend I will let you know how it worked.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47077
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47077
That's what I used. I actually got it for $9.99 a while back. I've used it several times and it's shown no sign of quitting so far. If it dies next time I use it, it's more than paid back its $10.
mplutodh1
Well-Known Member
I bought a cheap pneumatic high speed cutter from Harbor Freight to cut my keg. Haven't done the deed yet, but the guard should follow the rim pretty well. It was 1/2 off, so only $8 when I bought it. If I get around to cutting it this weekend I will let you know how it worked.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47077
Yeah I debated that - but figured the electric might be easier and I'd find other uses for it down the road. That one is like $7.99 after coupon right now though... so.
So apparently the "Heavy Duty" model is the one that I have a coupon for $17.99 - so I'll probably go that route.
I didn't use a jig when I cut mine. Just set-up a few fingers on the rim and took my time. After seeing the results, I'm glad I didn't spend the time. Although if you are a perfectionist, by all means go with the jig.
This jig took me about 45 seconds to make. Really. Might not work with all grinders because it requires the grip to come on a particular side.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simplest-keggle-cutting-jig-143048/#post1627203
mariojr
Well-Known Member
I bought a cheap pneumatic high speed cutter from Harbor Freight to cut my keg. Haven't done the deed yet, but the guard should follow the rim pretty well. It was 1/2 off, so only $8 when I bought it. If I get around to cutting it this weekend I will let you know how it worked.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47077
I'm sure you already know this but, you need more than one of those cheap pancake style compressors to make that cutter work worth a damn.
Just my two cents.
llenrocs
Well-Known Member
I have a decent sized compressor with a 30 gallon tank, so no problem there. Thanks.
hey, i was wondering if anyone converting their kegs would be willing to mail me a few parts that come off the conversion? i use unaltered sankeys for fermentation, but have recently misplaced one of the retainer rings. I would much appreciate someone just putting a retainer ring into an envelope and mailing it to me. ideally 2 or 3 rings, just to have a few for backups cause i'm sure i'll lose more in the future. If you have the purple-ish o-rings (sometimes black) that are on the spear itself after removed, i would love a few of those for replacements too. Those can't even be found online, and the retainers are only $1 each, but shipping and handling from an online site brings the cost way up. This is more a favor. I can reimburse via paypal for a few stamps/shipping. Thanks.
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