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Cutting top off a Sanke keg using angle grinder

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I just bought my tools from harbor freight this morning. I ended up getting a 4.5" grinder since it was on sale. The funny thing is those drill bits are almost as expensive as the grinder and cutting discs combined. But hopefully I will has plenty of need for them when I get some more kegs.

Has anyone used anything on their jig besides a hole saw? I don't have any of those so I am not sure what I am going to use on my jib to allow it to rotate in the center. If I have to I will go buy some though. I am looking at this not just as some project but also an opportunity to build up my tool collection.
 
Has anyone used a reciprocating saw with a Bi-metal blade on it.... seems easier than a grinder, no?

Sure it can be done, people have absolutely done it. Stainless is hard and will dull the blade pretty quick. You probably will not be able to get as accurate of cut either.

That being said, the grinder is much preferred.

Oh, I believe Biermuncher used a saw on his keggle. See link below for a "saw cut" example.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/keggle-construction-40553/#post396839
 
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Has anyone used anything on their jig besides a hole saw? I don't have any of those so I am not sure what I am going to use on my jib to allow it to rotate in the center. If I have to I will go buy some though. I am looking at this not just as some project but also an opportunity to build up my tool collection.

I only used the hole saw as the pivot after scouring my garage for 15 minutes and finally finding something that fit snug, but still turned. I suppose anything with a 2" diameter could work.
 
Has anyone used a reciprocating saw with a Bi-metal blade on it.... seems easier than a grinder, no?

I used it on one keg I did came out just as nice but you have to have a variable speed saw. The first blade went down in a shower of sparks . Go slow and it works great
 
Has anyone used a reciprocating saw with a Bi-metal blade on it.... seems easier than a grinder, no?

I've used both. I did one keggle with the saw and 2 with a grinder. The Grinder is much easier, much faster and will give a much cleaner cut. I'd never use anything but a grinder again.
 
I used a jig and grinder on mine...no problems ...fast and simple.

But...I made my hole about 11 1/2 inches...instead of 12. I bought a 12 inch cover but of course it's just that little bit too big.

Any safe efficient way to remove that 1/2 inch???
 
I didn't have any of the above mentioned tools and still don't. I do however have a dremel tool and a ton of cut-off wheels. Took forever, but I didn't have anything better to do. My goal was attained, I have a keg with the top cut off!
 
Yeah i thought of that but I sort of wanted to use the dip tube as the top portion of a mash paddle or something like that. :drunk:

Actually, that part that goes into the recess is removable from the rest of the dip tube. I guess all you'd have to do is remove the gasket and grind off the tabs that lock it into the top of the keg, then it would rotate free.
 
Actually, that part that goes into the recess is removable from the rest of the dip tube. I guess all you'd have to do is remove the gasket and grind off the tabs that lock it into the top of the keg, then it would rotate free.

So I am assuming I would be able to put it all back together again right? I will have to take a look at it once I get home. I have time anyway since I have to wait for the tools.
 
Actually, that part that goes into the recess is removable from the rest of the dip tube. I guess all you'd have to do is remove the gasket and grind off the tabs that lock it into the top of the keg, then it would rotate free.

That's how I used it on my jig. If I built the jig again though I think I'd build it to go around the outside of the collar, I had 2 kegs I couldn't get the dip tube out of (Some Miller kegs that had a weird safety latch)
 
That's how I used it on my jig. If I built the jig again though I think I'd build it to go around the outside of the collar, I had 2 kegs I couldn't get the dip tube out of (Some Miller kegs that had a weird safety latch)

interusting. Do you think the diameter of a soda can be too large to fit over it nicely? That would be sweet if I could use something like that or another can of some sort.
 
I'd think an aluminum can would be too flimsy, even if it fit.

Mine is a G-system (Fuller's) keg, and it has a weird circular collar on it that's flattened on three sides. I don't think I can get it to come off. I'm thinking I'll use the rail around the top of the keg as a guide for the grinder body and try to cut a circle that way.
 
Has anyone used a reciprocating saw with a Bi-metal blade on it.... seems easier than a grinder, no?

I started the cut with a dremel w/ cutoff wheel so I could get my jigsaw started (cheap $30 skilsaw) with an 18 TPI bi-metal blade. Said it was for cutting 1/16-1/4" metal. They were quality Lenox blades, and it took 2 of them to get all the way around. I am by no means a pro with the saw, either. just kept it going full throttle but did not force it, let the blade do its job. I was very surprised how smoothly it cut; barely had to do any deburring.

keggle.jpg
 
Is a 'cut-off' wheel the same as a 'cutting' wheel'? I've borrowed a buddy's 4.5" angle grinder but need a blade - the yokels at Home Depot were trying to sell me a masonry/concrete blade for around $60.00 I saw some blades that said Metal (thin, but no teeth) and some that said 'Stainless Steel' which were thicker than the Metal blade (but still no teeth) looked to be similar to the OP's blade. The scholars at Home Depot and even a customer were telling me No No No those will never work, yadda yadda yadda...

Help...?

Nevermind, I think I got it. Something like this should work I think.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=292621-70-DW8851&lpage=none
 
Is a 'cut-off' wheel the same as a 'cutting' wheel'? I've borrowed a buddy's 4.5" angle grinder but need a blade - the yokels at Home Depot were trying to sell me a masonry/concrete blade for around $60.00 I saw some blades that said Metal (thin, but no teeth) and some that said 'Stainless Steel' which were thicker than the Metal blade (but still no teeth) looked to be similar to the OP's blade. The scholars at Home Depot and even a customer were telling me No No No those will never work, yadda yadda yadda...

Help...?

Nevermind, I think I got it. Something like this should work I think.

DEWALT at Lowe's: 4-1/2" x .045" x 7/8" XP Cut-Off Wheel

that's exactly what i've used to cut 2 kegs. worked great, just get a couple in case one breaks. also get a flap disc to knock down any edges for safety reasons
 
AND I've cut my first keg! Built the 'Bobby Jig', took my time, and voila top is cut off! Did make one mistake, and that was cutting thru all one side before the other side was ready to go, and the top fell from that side with about 6" of steel needing to be cut 180 deg opposite. Propped up the lid with a piece of wood going underneath the lid and over the cut lip and finished my cut, but it wasn't as clean as the opposite side. A bit of grinding cleaned it up acceptable to my tastes, and no sharp edges...

Damn! Sparks, noise and power tools always make you feel like a man. :D
 
No, should be $2 or $3.

Yep, the one at the link you posted is what you want. Same one I used here.
 
Thanks!

Hrm... Honestly, I don't remember which wheels they were, but they were what Bobby_M recommended in his thread. I think I posted there.
 
AND I've cut my first keg! Built the 'Bobby Jig', took my time, and voila top is cut off! Did make one mistake, and that was cutting thru all one side before the other side was ready to go, and the top fell from that side with about 6" of steel needing to be cut 180 deg opposite. Propped up the lid with a piece of wood going underneath the lid and over the cut lip and finished my cut, but it wasn't as clean as the opposite side. A bit of grinding cleaned it up acceptable to my tastes, and no sharp edges...

Damn! Sparks, noise and power tools always make you feel like a man. :D

See, don't listen to the people at the local big home improvement stores. Neither of the ones here know much about metal stuff. Wood, remodeling and such the people at Home Depot know their stuff. Metal not so much.

Also, glad to see someone else from aggieland on here.
 
Hey guys I just wanted to say thanks! Especially to bobby for that video which helped me build my jig. I couldn't believe how fast it went once I got that jig built. I now have to figure out where to drill my hole and order my fittings and I will be all set.

Thanks again for all the help with tool selection and the general process.
 
Has anyone ever used an air nibbler to do this? Should get you a much cleaner cut.

Yup only after I talked to a factory rep for IR (Ingersoll Rand) for my model 325 Air Nibbler that cost me $149. He said to use it as a demo for the 304 stainless. I said i'll regulate the 3,200 cps down to under 1,000 and use high sulfur pipe threading oil under a constant squirt on the cutting head. What a mess. He said if it fails he at the I R company will replace it free. I drilled a hole first then got just past 1/3 of the way around before the "edge went away", another 2" more was all she wrote gone totally useless. Out came Mr. Hypertherm Max 20 Plasma to finish the job. A Brass slug out of 3/4 " stock with a step shoulder that fits into and on top the neck with a step shank aircraft bolt to 3/8" x 1 1/2" bar stock out to the kegs skirt having an offset to a wood spacer and gear clamps for the Plasma torch head to complete the job. I R within 8 working days sent me a complete cutting head as I sent them my wasted cutting head off my nibbler. This was a test by them and a question by a factory rep (AKA Bier Drinker) that also had the same question about cutting a bier keg top. Besides grinders with a wheel, Carbide is the only thing that comes to mind cutting stainless, this thru a my machining of stainless as well a person that makes a living out of stainless only for anything relating to marine from machining to welding stainless railings.
 
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