Why do you dislike the ice batch chilling method so much?? If you're not able to get/make a true wort chiller, it's your next best option. On top of the DMS issue mentioned, there's also the issue of cold break. With such a slow chill method (as you've outlined) chances are you'll have little (or no) cold break.
From BYO:
After the boil, wort needs to be cooled for a variety of reasons. The wort needs to be cool enough for the yeast to survive and perform well at making beer. Most ale yeasts work best between 68–72° F (20–22° C); most lager yeasts work best at 45–57° F (7–14° C). In addition, to prevent shock from a rapid change in temperature, the temperature difference between your yeast culture and wort should be less than 10° F (-12° C) at pitching.
There are reasons other than yeast health for wort chilling. Wort cooling causes solids, called the cold break, to form and fall out of solution. When wort is transferred from the kettle to the fermenter, this break material is left behind.
Wort cooling also slows dimethyl sulfide (DMS) production. DMS is a volatile substance produced in some worts, mostly those made from lager malts. DMS smells like cooked corn and is usually considered a beer fault, although it is noticeable and intentional in some commercial beers.
Quickly cooling the wort also slows growth of some wort contaminants. Once the wort drops below 160° F (71° C) or so, there are many bacteria — known as wort spoilers — that can quickly grow and produce off flavors in wort. Quickly moving the work to fermentation temperature and pitching the yeast minimizes the impact of these bacteria on your beer.