I vote for adding tannins to the boogeyman list

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kanzimonson

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... along with hot side aeration and several other homebrew myths.

What I'm referring to is this pervasive fear that grains should never go above 170. It seems like you can't have a discussion about sparge water temps without someone solemnly throwing this into a conversation (and then crossing their heart, checking for the Devil behind them, and throwing salt over their shoulder).

Yes, I believe the experts when I hear that you get more tannin extraction above 170. But how bad are we talking here? I mean, it's not like your beer is going to turn into a dry Bordeaux.

And plenty of people will add hotter water as a substitute for mashing out with direct fire, but you can't tell me that some of those grains aren't higher than 170 during some of that.

Anyway, just thought I'd rant about something that I'm tired of reading over and over.
 
I accidentally let my last extract batch get over 170 while my wife was adding to my honey do list. The steeping water got to 180 or so. I quickly cooled it with cold water as soon as I saw this. Ya know what? The beer tastes like tannins pretty bad and I don't like it. Don't poo-poo them just yet.

I had no idea what they even tasted like until now. Not good IMHO.
 
Tannins are both good and bad. They add some great flavor and depth, but if you get too many you get a harsh astringent terrible flavor.

For the most part, unless you are getting your entire grainbed up above 175 or so, you will have minimal impact on the flavor. But if you end up boiling some shredded husks or getting the grainbed above 175, you may notice a serious astringency that can be attributed to tannin extraction.

I've had some terribly tannic beers submitted to competitions, and trust me- tannins are a real issue.

If you follow the "rules" and don't oversparge or get the entire grainbed over 175, it shouldn't be an issue in anything except the lightest beers. A big roasty stout can hide a ton of tannic flavor, but a classic American pilsner cannot.
 
Not a lot of benefit to going over 170 though, is there? Better rinsing of the grain bed maybe? But we're talking about fractions of percents, if that.
 
Not a lot of benefit to going over 170 though, is there? Better rinsing of the grain bed maybe? But we're talking about a fractions of percents, if that.

Look at all the new brewer panic threads where the brewer's did, or boiled their grain and freaked out about it.....It's good to have information that shows them their beer is not instantly ruined by doing that, or the countless other things they are afraid of in their first few batches.
 
I accidentally let my last extract batch get over 170 while my wife was adding to my honey do list. The sweeping water got to 180 or so. I quickly cooled it with cold water as soon as I saw this. Ya know what? The beer tastes like tannins pretty bad and I don't like it. Don't poo-poo them just yet.

I had no idea what they even tasted like until now. Not good IMHO.

What temperature does the grain get to during a decoction mash :confused:
 
What temperature does the grain get to during a decoction mash :confused:

Once again, we should be talking about pH and not temperature. A thick mash is what boils- mostly grain and very little liquid. The low pH is the reason you aren't pulling out tons of tannins. BUT- there are definitely some. Again, that's why a decoction pulls out some of the grains, not all. Some tannin extraction adds flavor, depth, etc, but too much is harsh and astringent. It's a balancing act of pH and volume in the instance of a decoction!
 
Once again, we should be talking about pH and not temperature.
That was kind of my point to the poster. If it was only temp then decoction mash's would not be done. His temp rise should not have caused as much problem as indicated IF his water was in a good PH range.

Water chemistry was kind of the last piece of the puzzle for me, but thanks to AJ that is starting to come together for me now. If I was ambitious enough I'd run a poll on just how many of us are even paying attention to water/ph right now. Probably most learned to brew from a friend using the available water and the beer was good enough so they never went any further with it.
 
Because it was the temperature that was the variable at hand. I said I steeped, no? You don't adjust ph for steeping extract kits, and city water is almost always alkaline. Therefore, for beginning extract brewers, temp will probably be the only factor that affects tannin extraction. I assumed experienced brewers would know this. Sorry....
 
Actually if your pH is high enough and you steep in the "recommended" amount of water it should be trivial to extract excess tannin from steeping grains.
 
Even thin decoctions are fine depending on ph. I've done thin decoction pilseners with soft water and not had a problem. Tannins are created by multiple factors.
 
For instance, morebeer's extract with steeping grains instructions have you steep the grains in 2-3 gallons of water. Many of their kits have ~1.5 pounds of grain, this comes in at a ratio of 1 pound per 8 quarts of water in the worst case. If you started with soft water your grain is going to contribute very little buffering capacity.
 
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