Scorched Element

AussieBrewerInColorado · Jan 14, 2015

Brewbien said:
Here is a picture.
View attachment 246969

Basically because of the length of the ferrule and size of the hole, you can't get the wavy element through the hole without straightening which I tried without luck. It felt like I was going to break it,

I'm wondering the same thing looks like some people can and some can't get it through the same ferule. I just posted this on another thread asking what element it is. Maybe different to yours?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/weldless-triclover-element-428247/index21.html

Brewbien · Jan 14, 2015

AussieBrewerInColorado said:
I'm wondering the same thing looks like some people can and some can't get it through the same ferule. I just posted this on another thread asking what element it is. Maybe different to yours?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/weldless-triclover-element-428247/index21.html

It's been at least a year maybe two since i tried with the ripple element but i just remembered a detail that I left out. The problem was fitting it through the brewer's hardware element adapter, not the ferule. Pretty important detail, oops.

https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

AussieBrewerInColorado · Jan 14, 2015

Brewbien said:
It's been at least a year maybe two since i tried with the ripple element but i just remembered a detail that I left out. The problem was fitting it through the brewer's hardware element adapter, not the ferule. Pretty important detail, oops.

https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

ahh ok that makes sense. I'm looking at this one: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4wf.htm

crane · Jan 14, 2015

AussieBrewerInColorado said:
I'm wondering the same thing looks like some people can and some can't get it through the same ferule. I just posted this on another thread asking what element it is. Maybe different to yours?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/weldless-triclover-element-428247/index21.html

These are not the same ferules. The weldless one Bobby_M is selling is much thinner than the welded one brewbien is using. Getting a wavy element through the ferule is a combination of diameter AND depth of the ferule. You wouldn't be able to get one through a 2" ferule if it was 6" deep. Same thing for a 1.5" ferule that's 2 or more inches deep.

augiedoggy · Jan 14, 2015

crane said:
These are not the same ferules. The weldless one Bobby_M is selling is much thinner than the welded one brewbien is using. Getting a wavy element through the ferule is a combination of diameter AND depth of the ferule. You wouldn't be able to get one through a 2" ferule if it was 6" deep. Same thing for a 1.5" ferule that's 2 or more inches deep.

This is what I was assuming as well.

AussieBrewerInColorado · Jan 14, 2015

crane said:
These are not the same ferules. The weldless one Bobby_M is selling is much thinner than the welded one brewbien is using. Getting a wavy element through the ferule is a combination of diameter AND depth of the ferule. You wouldn't be able to get one through a 2" ferule if it was 6" deep. Same thing for a 1.5" ferule that's 2 or more inches deep.

right, obviously wouldn't go in brewbien's, but WILL go in Bobby's right?

USAFSooner · Jan 15, 2015

I just went through this fiasco. Thankfully was with a cheap lager and not a expensive Belgian beer. Mash smelled horribly like smoke. Oven cleaner and a stiff wire brush took the carbon crud off in addition to a wire wheel thing attached to a drill. Interested in the muratic acid approach as that crossed my mind while cleaning. What was the dilution ratio?

I have a "pipe bomb" style RIMS and in order to make it easier to clean I ordered a 1 1/2" mpt to 2" triclover fitting from eBay and ordered one of Brewhardwares element enclosures with a triclover fitting. This should make it simple to remove the element for cleaning at the end of a brew day.

crane · Jan 15, 2015

USAFSooner said:
I just went through this fiasco. Thankfully was with a cheap lager and not a expensive Belgian beer. Mash smelled horribly like smoke. Oven cleaner and a stiff wire brush took the carbon crud off in addition to a wire wheel thing attached to a drill. Interested in the muratic acid approach as that crossed my mind while cleaning. What was the dilution ratio?

I used whatever is recommended on the bottle. I think it was something like 20 parts water to 1 part acid. When mixing add acid to water not water to acid.

USAFSooner · Jan 15, 2015

crane said:
I used whatever is recommended on the bottle. I think it was something like 20 parts water to 1 part acid. When mixing add acid to water not water to acid.

Wonder how well it would work to recirculate the acid mix through the RIMS at about 100-150F. I'm thinking at 1:20 ratio you wouldn't be too worried about the silicone hoses being affected.

crane · Jan 15, 2015

USAFSooner said:
Wonder how well it would work to recirculate the acid mix through the RIMS at about 100-150F. I'm thinking at 1:20 ratio you wouldn't be too worried about the silicone hoses being affected.

I can't think of any reason why you would want to do this other than to not have to dissasembled the rims tube, but you would have probably already done that to see that it's scorched. My rims tube is all tri clamp fittings so it's much easier to just place it in a bucket overnight.

BlackJaqueJanaviac · Jan 15, 2015

I just scorched the last two batches I made.

The thing is my element looks like it is encrusted with scale, it isn't blackened.

So what's going on here?

The element is just a simple 5500 Watt 240V single loop going out and back. It doesn't even fold back on itself.

The batch sizes were around 13-14 gallons with gravities around 1.038 - 1.040 at the point of pitching.

Will a ULWD element fix this or will I still get the scale. If so, how to clean it?

If cleaning is all that is needed I suppose I don't need the ULWD element since the first couple batches came out good.

augiedoggy · Jan 15, 2015

BlackJaqueJanaviac said:
I just scorched the last two batches I made.

The thing is my element looks like it is encrusted with scale, it isn't blackened.

So what's going on here?

The element is just a simple 5500 Watt 240V single loop going out and back. It doesn't even fold back on itself.

The batch sizes were around 13-14 gallons with gravities around 1.038 - 1.040 at the point of pitching.

Will a ULWD element fix this or will I still get the scale. If so, how to clean it?

If cleaning is all that is needed I suppose I don't need the ULWD element since the first couple batches came out good.

the regular watt density elements are not really a smart choice for brewing... The surface area is much hotter... You basically have 5500w worth of heat energy packed into a small surface area.... Kind of like a torch its more likely to burn anything it comes in contact with easier... Ulwd is many times better in this application. The more surface area in the element the better to more evenly distribute the heat.

augiedoggy · Jan 15, 2015

crane said:
I can't think of any reason why you would want to do this other than to not have to dissasembled the rims tube, but you would have probably already done that to see that it's scorched. My rims tube is all tri clamp fittings so it's much easier to just place it in a bucket overnight.

I used a cheap 1" stainless cam lock fitting between my tee and the long pipe to disassemble and clean easily.

BlackJaqueJanaviac · Jan 16, 2015

Grr! I tried an ULWD element and I put my port too low and can't turn it freely.

Scorched Element

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