rKc CD101 Help...

I just built a toolbox RIMS controller with great success, accept for one thing. The PID unit isn't firing the 25A SS relay. I bought an eBay rKc (?) CD-101 unit. Does anyone have any tips for these generic PID? I have the settings set to PT100 RTD temp input. It shows the Out1 light is on, but it doesn't trigger the relay's 3-25VDC input. I know the relay works because a 9v battery kicks it on. Also, the temperature in *C seems accurate, but when I switch to *F, the temperature maxes out around 65*.

Anyone else have gone through these issues?
Thanks

ARe you 100% sure you bought one with the SSR signal output and not a relay output? That seems to be the most common error (that or buying the right one but getting sent the wrong one )

Can you provide a link to the documentation?

I'll take a look at the PID when I get home... Thanks! Should have gone with a name brand unit...

Interesting. It has a **** phase.

4 Digit Universal RKC CD101 Temperature Controller Temperature Controller Relay $26.06 Free Shipping @GoodLuckBuy.com

I have never seen one of those on ebay that would actually drive an SSR. The listings for them claim they can, and there are indeed models of that controller that can, but the ones being sold on ebay are almost always using a relay for output instead of an SSR control signal.

Then again, the ones I see on ebay don't even allow you to switch to *F display, so I don't know what you have.

Walker said:

I have never seen one of those on ebay that would actually drive an SSR. The listings for them claim they can, and there are indeed models of that controller that can, but the ones being sold on ebay are almost always using a relay for output instead of an SSR control signal.

Then again, the ones I see on ebay don't even allow you to switch to *F display, so I don't know what you have.

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Walker wasn't it you that hack one of the relay output ones to drive a SSR (which was basically removing the relay and sending the internal relay drive signal to the out posts instead). But your right the REX controllers on ebay were always confusing to say the least in what you would actually get (to the point of borderline purposly desceptivein the description )
Just bought me a sestos last night (with thermocouple and 25A SSR = $40 and another $4 for a heat sink)
I don't care much for the temperature of horse blood so °C is perfect for me

mattd2 said:

Walker wasn't it you that hack one of the relay output ones to drive a SSR (which was basically removing the relay and sending the internal relay drive signal to the out posts instead).

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Yeah... I posted a thread stating that I thought it could be done. But I didn't actually have 1 available to try it out with. I think other people have done it and it did work.

Walker said:

Yeah... I posted a thread stating that I thought it could be done. But I didn't actually have 1 available to try it out with. I think other people have done it and it did work.

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Yeah, I was reading last night when trying to remember if it was the REX or Sestos I should be buying and now you mention it I do remember others did have success in changing them to drive SSR. Bit of a pain for thoses that have to do it though

Well the confirmation is.... Relay. I'm going to void any and all ;-) warranties and try finding the connections. So hey, I'll be out a little if it doesn't work. But the outcome could be good. I'll post how it goes. Thanks to everyone who commented.

you don't HAVE to crack it open and hack it. You can just feed the voltage from an old cellphone charger through the relay that it does have and drive the SSR that way. It will work.

Walker said:

you don't HAVE to crack it open and hack it. You can just feed the voltage from an old cellphone charger through the relay that it does have and drive the SSR that way. It will work.

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Don't trust my numbers but I read one spec that said the current draw is 6 mA @ 12v, given a 9V battery should have 400+ mAh you could possibly use the 9V battery instead of a wall wart and it last about 60 hours.

That's a great idea with the 9v. I'm going to buy a 9v harness and wire it to the outside of the box next to the heat sink to have ready access for battery replacement.
I'll give it a shot for a couple of runs and see how the performance is with the battery.
Thanks

mattd2 said:

Don't trust my numbers but I read one spec that said the current draw is 6 mA @ 12v, given a 9V battery should have 400+ mAh you could possibly use the 9V battery instead of a wall wart and it last about 60 hours.

Click to expand...

Yes, you could absolutely do this. I suggested the wall wort because it will be cheaper and it will not need replacing.

Hi all, first post

I have a CD101 from China, bought through ebay. It has SSR output, which is specified by model identification number, FK02-VM*AN-NN (5th digit, V=voltage pulse output=SSR, M=relay output)

The unit is not actually manufactured by RKC, but reverse-engeneered in China. But, it works very well, exept for the STOP function. Display showes "STOP" but PID still giving control output. That is a fairly known issue with the "China" version.

I also have two original RKC REX CB100, that looks exactly the same, function the same etc, exept the stop works on these. Mine had relay output, but i wired the relay drive voltage to the outputs so they can drive the SSR's directly.

SSR can certainly be wired with external powersource through the relay output. But the main difference between SSR and relay versions is that the control cycle is set for 2 sec on SSR output and 20 sec on relay output versions.
This parameter can be changed in settings and is called T in the menu system.

On a fast reacting RIMS it may be beneficial with a low value, to get fast reaction, and a relay on the output can suffer from fast switching. On a larger vessel (slow system)it should be fine with 20s control cycle or even longer.

All of my units came with a k-type innput, but all have been reconfigured for PT-100. This is simply done by changing SL1 from 0000 to 1100 in advanced menu.
For those who prefer Farenheit, change SL2 from 0000 to 0001.

If you haven't seen it: resources:cd101 [MightyOhm Wiki]
It has a link to a more complete manual that showes how to unlock data so advanced settings can be programmed/altered.