Facelift for my control panel

augiedoggy · Jan 11, 2015

thomasjr16 said:
Did you repurpose the mash tun cooler from the older setup as your cooling tank reservoir? I've been looking into the cool jacket setup and I like what I see. Are you using one jacket for your conical or two? I was leaning towards the 15 gal induction tanks but that desktop ornament really adds to the brewery bling!

just one jacket... It actually works VERY well to cool the conical I picked up a chiller free from work that we use on our equipment..it will actually work to cool a few fermentors when I move and switch to electric ball valves to control flow.. the fan was sticking and the tech that was servicing was going to toss it but knew I wanted one so he saved it for me.. a little oil in the fan motor and shes good to go...using water now but plan to add glycol.
I made a thermocouple out of some 5/16 stainless tubing I bought to make diptubes for some 10gallon cornies I found for $20 a piece on Craigslist that were missing them.

I mounted the stc1000 clone temp probe inside of the stainless tube and capped it with jb weld, drilled out a couple holes in a stopper for an airlock and probe but I am actually changing my setup as soon as the hardware arrives from ebay. I have some old heating strips that were used as media heaters in some of the hp and xerox stuff I service I wrapped one at the base of the conical and that also work well...

NewBrewB · Jan 12, 2015

augiedoggy said:
12 5gallons actually... its 47" tall...

Where do I buy one? This is perfect!

augiedoggy · Jan 12, 2015

NewBrewB said:
Where do I buy one? This is perfect!

The conical is from stout.... We got ours through thier ebay store and saved $75 or so... it was under $400 with shipping...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-5-Gal-Co...073?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339baa0949

the cooling jacket was from coolzone
I still have it bookmarked since I plan I buying a couple more once I recover from the holiday spending . I didnt buy the insulated jacket...I haven't needed it but in the summer a good it or a good insulated box or at least comforter will come in handy.

http://www.gotta-brew.com/products/cool-zone-cooling-jacket.html

Hello · Jan 12, 2015

Good lord that is amazing. Nice work!

EODtony · Jan 12, 2015

Those are Stout Tanks conical fermenters. I just ordered my kettles from them, I'm waiting to get conicals. But I will probably go through them as well.

https://conical-fermenter.com/Conical-Fermenters/

augiedoggy · Jan 12, 2015

EODtony said:
Those are Stout Tanks conical fermenters. I just ordered my kettles from them, I'm waiting to get conicals. But I will probably go through them as well.

https://conical-fermenter.com/Conical-Fermenters/

Yup... just as I mentioned above.... they also sell them on ebay one or two at a time for a discounted price... I kind of wish I got the model with the thermocouple though...

EODtony · Jan 12, 2015

Yeah, I was typing my response up and trying to send it but you beat me to it. Where I'm at the internet is worse than dial up sometimes. I have to open up a bunch of topics on here that I want to read and walk away for about 15 minutes then I can come back and read them. Prictures is a whole nother story...LOL

augiedoggy · Jan 12, 2015

EODtony said:
Yeah, I was typing my response up and trying to send it but you beat me to it. Where I'm at the internet is worse than dial up sometimes. I have to open up a bunch of topics on here that I want to read and walk away for about 15 minutes then I can come back and read them. Prictures is a whole nother story...LOL

LOL I've been there!

PapaFoxtrot · Jan 12, 2015

Augie,

A couple questions about your pumps. I'm looking at the 24v model and curious how you clean them? Not looking to start a flame war - just curious what method you use. Also, I believe the inlet and outlet are 1/2" BSP threads? If so, would this fitting work(a bit pricey, but curious if it's an option)? Last, do you get enough flow from the 24v models to get a decent whirlpool?

I like that these are small and inexpensive. I plan to try to keep my system modular and these are cheap enough to keep a couple spares rigged with fittings. If I have trouble with one, just close the valve and swap it out.

Thanks! Great looking system you have there.

augiedoggy · Jan 12, 2015

PapaFoxtrot said:
Augie,

A couple questions about your pumps. I'm looking at the 24v model and curious how you clean them? Not looking to start a flame war - just curious what method you use. Also, I believe the inlet and outlet are 1/2" BSP threads? If so, would this fitting work(a bit pricey, but curious if it's an option)? Last, do you get enough flow from the 24v models to get a decent whirlpool?

I like that these are small and inexpensive. I plan to try to keep my system modular and these are cheap enough to keep a couple spares rigged with fittings. If I have trouble with one, just close the valve and swap it out.

Thanks! Great looking system you have there.

No problem... for cleaning I just run a pwb solution through my rims and hoses for about 20-30 minutes and then hot water...I pulled one pump apart once a couple moths ago after a years use it still looks pretty clean with noticeable contamination or buildup. I only pump the water and pre chilled wort through it so being totally sanitized is not a concern,
and yes they are BSP fitting according to the specs but any 1/2" but standard thread fitting NPT and NPS thread on fine so I'm not sure how much difference there is when it comes to plastic and give. I do use teflon tape... I currently use stainless camlock fitting permanently attached this way for easy removal if needed.
as far as whirlpooling, it does work with my 24v version but Its not very vigorous I will admit . you need to have the correct elbow configuration to increase the flow pressure but yes it does work. I honestly dont do it anymore because I made a variable speed stirrer/ mixer that I use and even that I dont need with my braided screen on the diptube and hop spider...

augiedoggy · Jan 12, 2015

Hello said:
Good lord that is amazing. Nice work!

Soryy I missed your comment, Thanks! its still a work in progress but it works pretty well...
I have a rotometer (flow meter) coming to measure mash recirculation and sparge flow level..

augiedoggy · Jan 12, 2015

PapaFoxtrot said:
Augie,

A couple questions about your pumps. I'm looking at the 24v model and curious how you clean them? Not looking to start a flame war - just curious what method you use. Also, I believe the inlet and outlet are 1/2" BSP threads? If so, would this fitting work(a bit pricey, but curious if it's an option)? Last, do you get enough flow from the 24v models to get a decent whirlpool?

I like that these are small and inexpensive. I plan to try to keep my system modular and these are cheap enough to keep a couple spares rigged with fittings. If I have trouble with one, just close the valve and swap it out.

Thanks! Great looking system you have there.

I edited my earlier comment now that I had more time after work to check out the link you linked...

JUST_BREW_IT · Jan 12, 2015

Do you have a parts list for your original control panel?

augiedoggy · Jan 13, 2015

JUST_BREW_IT said:
Do you have a parts list for your original control panel?

not really I will come up with one and post it here though... my original and current control panel are the same I just gave it a facelift, rearranged and added a couple things..
most of the stuff came from ebay or amazon... anything in particular your wondering about?

augiedoggy · Jan 21, 2015

here are some pics of my new $20 flow meter in action...I'm really happy with it so far . Used it for two brews. its cool to be able to see the color and huge clarity change during the recirculation of the mash... what starts out very cloudy is almost crystal clear by the end of the 60 minute mash.... as you can see in the pics of mondays blond ale brewing session and the cloudy irish red pic.

thomasjr16 · Jan 22, 2015

That's incredible! Easy to CIP when flushing the system with PBW / hot or cold water?

augiedoggy · Jan 22, 2015

thomasjr16 said:
That's incredible! Easy to CIP when flushing the system with PBW / hot or cold water?

Yes that's exactly how I clean my lines, chiller and rims I do still clean my kettles elsewhere however.

schematix · Jan 22, 2015

Where did you get the rotameters? I designed those into my rig but nixxed due to cost. I'd love love love to add them in.

augiedoggy · Jan 22, 2015

schematix said:
Where did you get the rotameters? I designed those into my rig but nixxed due to cost. I'd love love love to add them in.

EBay ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/33135307974...49&var=540545512831&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

PapaFoxtrot · Jan 22, 2015

augiedoggy said:
EBay ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/33135307974...49&var=540545512831&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Well, since I was nursing a serious case of "want", I ordered one. Cart a bit in front of the horse, as I hope to place my order for kettles this week. I'm working on a nice pile of parts...

augiedoggy · Jan 22, 2015

PapaFoxtrot said:
Well, since I was nursing a serious case of "want", I ordered one. Cart a bit in front of the horse, as I hope to place my order for kettles this week. I'm working on a nice pile of parts...

Lol I know this all too well... If only they sold an inexpensive version of this with a sensor that could be tied to a relay controlling a rims heating element to cut the heat if the flow ever stopped or fell below a certian level... Im sure it could be done though... Maybe an optical sensor?

BigFloppy · Jan 22, 2015

time to redo my hose work for me as well, couldn't resist

schematix · Jan 22, 2015

augiedoggy said:
Lol I know this all too well... If only they sold an inexpensive version of this with a sensor that could be tied to a relay controlling a rims heating element to cut the heat if the flow ever stopped or fell below a certian level... Im sure it could be done though... Maybe an optical sensor?

So you just sparked an idea... you could use the float in the rotameter to trigger a proximity switch. There are a few details you'd have to work out in regards to mounting and interlocking, but this might be a good basis! I'm going to put some more thought into this idea myself because it makes me nervous as hell walking away from a potential RIMs grenade.

augiedoggy · Jan 22, 2015

schematix said:
So you just sparked an idea... you could use the float in the rotameter to trigger a proximity switch. There are a few details you'd have to work out in regards to mounting and interlocking, but this might be a good basis! I'm going to put some more thought into this idea myself because it makes me nervous as hell walking away from a potential RIMs grenade.

I did see a pic of something like this in the automated forum but I dont remember which thread it was in.

schematix · Jan 22, 2015

I put a few more minutes of thought into this and came up with a flow sensing idea that is simple and cheap. The materials required would be 2 inductive proxes, 1 normally open and 1 normally closed, and a relay. These are wired into a classic start/stop latch circuit.

The minimum flow switch is normally closed so that if its not connected or faulty the circuit will never turn latch on. The desired flow switch is normally open so that it latches the circuit when the flow is within its range. However, once it has been seen, the circuit stays latched until the minimum switch is triggered again (opens the circuit).

Another normally open contact off of CR1 would then be used as an interlock to either the SSR coil, or the PID controller, or whatever other system you have.

Looks like I found an excuse to drop another hundred bucks.

augiedoggy · Jan 22, 2015

schematix said:
I put a few more minutes of thought into this and came up with a flow sensing idea that is simple and cheap. The materials required would be 2 inductive proxes, 1 normally open and 1 normally closed, and a relay. These are wired into a classic start/stop latch circuit.

The minimum flow switch is normally closed so that if its not connected or faulty the circuit will never turn latch on. The desired flow switch is normally open so that it latches the circuit when the flow is within its range. However, once it has been seen, the circuit stays latched until the minimum switch is triggered again (opens the circuit).

Another normally open contact off of CR1 would then be used as an interlock to either the SSR coil, or the PID controller, or whatever other system you have.

Looks like I found an excuse to drop another hundred bucks.

I'm interested to see how this works out...I have a lot of various sensors from the plotters and printers and such I service and have scrapped over the years and may try to fab something up myself if I can find an optical sensor that sensitive enough to work through the glass and at that range..
I have also found cheap flow sensors but none for the volume and also foodsafe.

Edit maybe I'm not looking hard enough...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-St...561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e2ceb2d9

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-St...035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233b067be3

augiedoggy · Jan 22, 2015

Since I use low flow dc pumps I was able to find a 5l per minute flow switch for $11... we will see how it performs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281264902027

schematix · Jan 22, 2015

Best I can tell these are piston style switches, which are grain catchers, and thus a no-go.

schematix · Jan 22, 2015

I'm going to try to refine my rotameter prox switch + relay idea tonight and see if I can spec cost effective components. I really want the rotameter for recirc, sparge and lauter control anyways. If i can add a flow sensing mechanism to that i'd be happy.

This is a turbine style flow switch. Min 1L/min (which is very close to sparge rate). I'd think this would be better than a piston style but i can't tell from the picture how large the spacing between the blades is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transparent...542?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418d69b5e6

augiedoggy · Jan 22, 2015

I don't get grain in my lines I have a triple filtering false bottom because my little 3gpm pumps would jam with grain...
They say they are reed switch activated but I do believe there is a cone type piston? That the fluid applies pressure to so it opens.
I saw the one you linked but those appear to monitor and control flow and I'm looking for a on off flow switch to allow current and cut current to my SSR powering my rims element

Facelift for my control panel

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