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gunner65
Well-Known Member
Thughes what size punch did you use?
Electric BIAB and Nylon Voile Experiment
- Thread starter gunner65
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I used my 1 1/4 chassis punch. Figured I'd get some use out of it considering how much the damn thing cost. I simply used the existing holes in the basket as pilot holes and punched out every other one.
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gunner65
Well-Known Member
Got a greenlee set at work cha ching
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gunner65
Well-Known Member
Just got to use my new bayou classic with steamer basket and over head pulley. Wow what an easy brew day.
Sardoman
Well-Known Member
Seems to me a grant would solve the cavitation problem and be more hands-off than the o-ring on the sight tube solution. On the other hand, that is considerably cheaper and easier to implement. Good ingenuity on that one!
Thanks Sardoman. I've actually refined the method to a much less hands-on approach: Once the mash reaches temp I simply shut the pump off, put the lid on, and come back in 90 minutes. 9-10 gallons of water and 12-15 lbs grain (on avg) is a lot of thermal mass and I don't worry too much about the 1-2 degree drop over the course of an hour-and-a-half. 
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gunner65
Well-Known Member
thughes said:
I punched seven 1.25" holes in the bottom. I only recirculate with the valve half open.
Hey everyone, thanks for your comments. I am looking to make a ebiab 10gal setup in the future and like to hear how things work for other people. I brew 5 gal full boil split pot on my stove and since i dont have a pump, when i use one of those strainer baskets I find it makes it difficult to keep the temperature of the water consistent.
Since you are using 220v, could you not just install 2 switches for the two hots on the 220v cord and disable one of the hots making the power output 1/4 for keeping the mash temperature? Would this not prevent the bag from scorching?
Since you are using 220v, could you not just install 2 switches for the two hots on the 220v cord and disable one of the hots making the power output 1/4 for keeping the mash temperature? Would this not prevent the bag from scorching?
With that type of set up you need to keep the mash fluid moving/recirculating. Otherwise you will only be adding heat to the area around the element and it cannot regulate the entire mash volume temperature.
(Unless I do not understand you planned set up.)
skipper1953
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When you switch OFF one of the hot leads, you will need to switch ON a neutral lead or you will have no power to your element. Be sure to use a "breaks before it makes" switching arrangement. A three position (ON/OFF/ON) switch controlling two seperate SPST contactors would work.
I'm no good with schematics. There are folks who can draw one up in their sleep (P-J).
Catywumpas
New Member
I too have made several BIAB batches successfuly with my electric system. This last batch both my elements melted. I have a false bottom so no bag ever touches the elements. You guys are dead on with the slow recirculating system. I was making a Roggenbier, which is almost all rye grain, and I had a pool on top of my grain bed. So, does anyone think rice hulls would solve this problem?
tektonjp
Well-Known Member
What I've done, and it seems to work okay, is to make a tube out of SS screen, like a kettle filter. I put it in between the bag and the kettle and it acts as an overflow pipe. This, and keeping the flow rate down helps. The one time I scorched my element is when I didn't have this pipe and I stirred. Stirring upsets the flow through the grain bed, I think.
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