Lennie
Well-Known Member
Sure, rub it in that my spray ball project crashed and burned! Actually I used a brush on the dreaded ring and that worked quite nicely. I may not even do a CIP spray ball.
Brewhemoth conicals?
- Thread starter strat_thru_marshall
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The lid is off because I did not have a scale. Also the only reason I'm pushing it with co2 is because the fermenter is to low to gravity feed. I tried but it stopped part way up. I'm going to make a platform to put it on and then it will be high enough.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
Use the gas, put the lid on the keg and let a little pressure off through the gas out port (push down on it with a screwdriver or something). Then you don't need to elevate the conical. I'd hesitate to put it on a platform unless you secure the legs somehow. A rolling platform would be nice for when it is full.
My plan is next week I'm building two 4'x4' platforms both with 10" Pneumatic wheels just like my brew rig has. I brew in my front garage and ferment in my back garage. So the fermenters are moved full over about 300 feet of crushed concrete driveway (or snow this time of year). As of now I just strap it to a 2 wheel dolly and move that way.
My 35 gallon conical has 4 legs and each will be bolted down. The BH will have the legs bolted down using the nuts that the feet are in now but I'll also add some eye-bolts to the platform and run straps from the top of the legs down to the eye-bolts.
Being that I'm not carbing in the BH I don't care about using the CO2 to rack. In fact I would rather not if I don't have to. Gravity never runs out mid transfer and it's free.
How long does it take to fill a keg using 1/4" ID tubing and the keg diptube? I am debating whether to use that approach or use 3/8" ID tubing and a racking cane.
Using gravity and not pushing it with 10+psi I would say somewhere between 5 and 10 minutes. More then enough time to sanitize the next keg.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
thanks for the data - helpful!!
thatjonguy
Now with 57.93% more awesome!
This thing is awesome.
Thinking of using these in my brewpub since, 1: we like small batches and 2: we are in a awesome downtown building and can't get anything bigger than these through the door (figuratively).
Thinking of using these in my brewpub since, 1: we like small batches and 2: we are in a awesome downtown building and can't get anything bigger than these through the door (figuratively).
nostalgia
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I just started a new thread documenting my Brewhemoth CIP system. If you want to share yours, or get an idea of how to build yours, check it out.
-Joe
-Joe
thatjonguy
Now with 57.93% more awesome!
Anyone else have leg studs that are slightly mis-aligned? One of my legs will not go on straight no matter what I do. It is off at roughly 10 to 15 degree angle.
ThatGuyRyan
Well-Known Member
The slots on mine have plenty of play to align them when the nuts are loose and I assume they use a jig to weld them but I am just guessing that is how they weld them on. Can you possibly drill out the slots on the leg with the issue to give it more play?
thatjonguy
Now with 57.93% more awesome!
ThatGuyRyan said:
I thought about that, I am going to see if I can get them straight as soon as it is empty.
JEBrew
Well-Known Member
There are times when the heat that is created when welding them that throws the out of align. We usually correct that, but we must have missed that one.
My suggestion would be to CAREFULLY see if you can tap it more in line (that is what we do)...it may be helpful to apply a bit of low heat, if you have access.
My suggestion would be to CAREFULLY see if you can tap it more in line (that is what we do)...it may be helpful to apply a bit of low heat, if you have access.
EBloom97
Well-Known Member
Yep, it works. The gauge only goes up to 15 PSI though. Took me a while to actually get around to testing it on the fermenter because I keep the brewhemoth at my friend's house with all my BIG equipment.
http://s700.photobucket.com/albums/...525800_2518415065_689549351_1330445876201.jpg
http://s700.photobucket.com/albums/...525695_2518414689_689549246_1330445845023.jpg
That's a 1" triclover tee (http://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tri-Clover-Clamp-Tee-TC10TEE.html) that is attached to a to a 1" triclover to 1/4" female threaded fitting adapter (http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1-4-FPT-Fitting.html) that is attached to the pressure relief valve I bought in January.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
A friend and I brewed another batch for the Brewhemoth yesterday, an IPA finished with Zythos hop blend. He brought over his keggle and we boiled 2/3 of the batch in that. I enjoy brewing large batches once in awhile, its a stark contrast to my usual 3gal.
The wort is in the fermentor now, I'm doing pressurized fermentation again since that worked great the first time around.
The wort is in the fermentor now, I'm doing pressurized fermentation again since that worked great the first time around.
tante
Well-Known Member
got my tri-clover brewhemoth a few weeks ago and now going to buy all of the valves and things that I need. I do have a few questions so I hope that you guys can help me out.
I think I can get almost everything from brewers hardware:
1 - is the racking port necessary? do I need a valve here or should I just cap it off?
2 - I want to put in a thermowell at the 1" opening on the top. I guess I don't really understand how a termowell works. Do I need to fill it with liquid and put in a temperature sensor (like in a kegerator) and then plug that into a love controller? I guess I don't fully understand how this part works
3 - I would like to get a CIP spray ball, am I correct in assuming that the 4 inch opening at the top is the only place this will work?
I think I can get almost everything from brewers hardware:
1 - is the racking port necessary? do I need a valve here or should I just cap it off?
2 - I want to put in a thermowell at the 1" opening on the top. I guess I don't really understand how a termowell works. Do I need to fill it with liquid and put in a temperature sensor (like in a kegerator) and then plug that into a love controller? I guess I don't fully understand how this part works
3 - I would like to get a CIP spray ball, am I correct in assuming that the 4 inch opening at the top is the only place this will work?
Lennie
Well-Known Member
1. Its not absolutely necessary but I think it is nice to be able to rack off the side of the conical instead of the very bottom, so I'd get that valve if you can afford it. It keeps you away from much (though not all) of the yeast/trub. I generally dump yeast, then let things settle a few hours, then rack. There'll be a little yeast in the port but its mostly gone after the first few seconds.
2. If you're going to control temp in a fermentation fridge, then you simply slide the thermocouple of the controller (Love or Johnson) down the tube, no need to fill with liquid. The thermowell is submerged in the beer so you get a decent temp reading. YOu need a very long thermowell to go from the 1" port on top though. Something like 24".
3. I think so, I don't think the small plastic CIP ball would fit through the 1" port. I have a 2" ball, I just sit it in the 4" opening and cover that with a towel while I run it (its a hard plastic pipe setup). I'd probably recommend the 1" ball from McMaster Carr over the 2" ball at Brewershardware. The larger ball takes a big pump to push enough water to get a vigorous spray. If you want the 2". let me know and I'll tell you what pump you need. A March pump isn't enough, you need a larger sump pump type unit.
Congrats on the Brewhemoth, hope you like it as much as I do!
2. If you're going to control temp in a fermentation fridge, then you simply slide the thermocouple of the controller (Love or Johnson) down the tube, no need to fill with liquid. The thermowell is submerged in the beer so you get a decent temp reading. YOu need a very long thermowell to go from the 1" port on top though. Something like 24".
3. I think so, I don't think the small plastic CIP ball would fit through the 1" port. I have a 2" ball, I just sit it in the 4" opening and cover that with a towel while I run it (its a hard plastic pipe setup). I'd probably recommend the 1" ball from McMaster Carr over the 2" ball at Brewershardware. The larger ball takes a big pump to push enough water to get a vigorous spray. If you want the 2". let me know and I'll tell you what pump you need. A March pump isn't enough, you need a larger sump pump type unit.
Congrats on the Brewhemoth, hope you like it as much as I do!
tante
Well-Known Member
Lennie,
thanks for the response.
1 - why wouldn't you just dump the trub and yeast before you rack from the bottom?
2 - will the probe get a good reading if it is not in liquid? I don't have a fermentation chamber built yet, but still want to monitor the temp at which I am fermenting, is there is something else I can hook up the probe to beside a temp controller?
3 - thank you, great information that I didn't know. I was planning on just buying a sump pump for the cleaning.
one other question, I am going to get a butterfly valve(s) would I then go to a 1/2 inch hose barb?
thanks for the response.
1 - why wouldn't you just dump the trub and yeast before you rack from the bottom?
2 - will the probe get a good reading if it is not in liquid? I don't have a fermentation chamber built yet, but still want to monitor the temp at which I am fermenting, is there is something else I can hook up the probe to beside a temp controller?
3 - thank you, great information that I didn't know. I was planning on just buying a sump pump for the cleaning.
one other question, I am going to get a butterfly valve(s) would I then go to a 1/2 inch hose barb?
Lennie
Well-Known Member
1. I think some yeast gets hung up on the walls of the conical section doesn't all just accumulate right on the bottom, so you wouldn't be able to dump and rack as cleanly as racking off the side of the conical section. Periodically thumping the conical with a rubber mallet would most likely help to knock the hung-up trub on down to the bottom, and dumping the day before racking is also probably a good idea as far as getting the cleanest beeer off.
2. The thermowell has to be touching the wort, the probe will naturally touch the thermowell and that contact will be adequate to get a good reading. If you don't use a controller you an still buy a digital thermometer with a probe (used for cooking) but really the simple way to ge a temp is to use a stick-on fermometer low enough on the fermentor to be where the liquid is.
3. Heres a link to the kind fo pump you'll want to push brewershardware's 2" CIP ball. I bought the 1.5HP version and it actually pushes too fast, it outpaces the draining even with both the dump and racking port valves open. Its no big deal, it still works. I linked a 1HP unit, that or a 1.25HP ought to be about right. You just need enough push to keep that ball spinning. I'd tried a smaller DC pump that pushed 50psi but it was on a 1/2" line and this wasn't enough water for the large diameter ball.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rand-1-...ultDomain_0&hash=item5ae52548ea#ht_1564wt_907
2. The thermowell has to be touching the wort, the probe will naturally touch the thermowell and that contact will be adequate to get a good reading. If you don't use a controller you an still buy a digital thermometer with a probe (used for cooking) but really the simple way to ge a temp is to use a stick-on fermometer low enough on the fermentor to be where the liquid is.
3. Heres a link to the kind fo pump you'll want to push brewershardware's 2" CIP ball. I bought the 1.5HP version and it actually pushes too fast, it outpaces the draining even with both the dump and racking port valves open. Its no big deal, it still works. I linked a 1HP unit, that or a 1.25HP ought to be about right. You just need enough push to keep that ball spinning. I'd tried a smaller DC pump that pushed 50psi but it was on a 1/2" line and this wasn't enough water for the large diameter ball.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rand-1-...ultDomain_0&hash=item5ae52548ea#ht_1564wt_907
tante
Well-Known Member
how are you guys transfering into a ball lock corny. All the ball lock disconnects are 1/4 inch barbed but the tri-clover hose barb is 1/2 inch.
http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=pr
oduct_info&products_id=1146
I think this is what I had found when I looked into it.
oduct_info&products_id=1146
I think this is what I had found when I looked into it.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
I have a 1/4" triclover barb for my triclover racking port. Got it from brewershardware.
tante
Well-Known Member
thanks they might just be out of stock.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
I looked and I have a 3/8" barb after all. What I did to make it work was put a 1/2" length of smaller tubing on the ball lock QD barb and then slipped the 3/8" hose over that and clamped it. It worked for filling the cornies.
I used a TriClamp Rubber Hose Adapter 3/8"x1 1/2"
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Hose_Adapters-Rubber_Hose_Adapter_3_8_-1_1_2_TC.html
3/8 inch inner diameter beer line
and then a 5/16" Swivel Nut Set for MFL 1/4" Ball Lock to the corny keg
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TKU8KS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Hose_Adapters-Rubber_Hose_Adapter_3_8_-1_1_2_TC.html
3/8 inch inner diameter beer line
and then a 5/16" Swivel Nut Set for MFL 1/4" Ball Lock to the corny keg
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TKU8KS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Last edited by a moderator:
erikrocks
Well-Known Member
So, I'm ready to make the leap and buy a Brewhemoth. Like Man Skirt Joe, the fact that the Brewhemoth is made in the USA and with American parts sealed the deal for me.
I'm trying to get my grocery list of tri clamps together now, and the job is a little daunting without having the unit in my house to look at. First of all, I'm going to get the Pressurizer, which looks like a decent deal. Does anyone rack to kegs using Derrin's tri clover sample valve? It looks like a great way to take gravity samples, but If I connect the barb to a keg post and open the valve all the way, couldn't I use that instead of spending another $50 on a butterfly valve?
I'm trying to get my grocery list of tri clamps together now, and the job is a little daunting without having the unit in my house to look at. First of all, I'm going to get the Pressurizer, which looks like a decent deal. Does anyone rack to kegs using Derrin's tri clover sample valve? It looks like a great way to take gravity samples, but If I connect the barb to a keg post and open the valve all the way, couldn't I use that instead of spending another $50 on a butterfly valve?
Lennie
Well-Known Member
I'm sure it would. Is it a ball valve inside? I suppose that is the only possible down side, cleaning that. I agree though that it looks interesting. I have a butterfly and a barbed fitting, this seems to cover both in one economical unit.
erikrocks
Well-Known Member
I have an email out to Derrin asking him if it's a ball valve. It'd be nice to save a little dough.
Lennie
Well-Known Member
The one thing I don't know about is whether the downward angle of the racking port would let the sampling valve drain completely. If you had a picnic tap on the thing it really wouldn't matter I suppose. Then you could just pull that off and put on a hose with a keg QD and rack. Butterfly valves with barbs aren't a whole lot easier to clean after pulling a test sample, I squirt Starsan on them and thats about all you can do.
I really don't do much gravity testing, I usually let the beer go long enough that I know its done based on my experience, then when I dump yeast I'll take a gravity on that. I usually dump yeast a few days before racking to kegs, just to be sure I get the least amount of yeast carrying into the kegs. This last time I vented the pressure, then dumped yeast, then opened the top and dropped in a sock full of dry hops, then repressurized and bled a little gas off to remove some of the introduced air. I will rack to kegs in a week.
I really don't do much gravity testing, I usually let the beer go long enough that I know its done based on my experience, then when I dump yeast I'll take a gravity on that. I usually dump yeast a few days before racking to kegs, just to be sure I get the least amount of yeast carrying into the kegs. This last time I vented the pressure, then dumped yeast, then opened the top and dropped in a sock full of dry hops, then repressurized and bled a little gas off to remove some of the introduced air. I will rack to kegs in a week.
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