Working with wood veneer and MDF

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ChrisfromAbby

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Sadly, the freezer of my keezer died. I tried some necromancy with a refrigerant recharge, but alas, the resurrection was temporary. So I gave away my collar to a brewclub member who was able to fit it to his freezer while I tackled a re-build. I found the perfect freezer candidate on good old Craigslist.

Now, I do have some basic woodbuilding and carpentry skills but I'm no cabinet maker. So I'm sure many of you could do this too, but I thought I'd diarize this a little. I've taken an approach that is a bit of a small rage in woodworking circles that I think is really applicable for homebrewers.

The crux of it is this - build the basic collar out of MDF and skin it with paper-backed wood veneer. Apply the veneer using the wood glue and ironing technique.

I've read about and watched videos about the ironing technique but mostly I saw reference that it was to be used for only small pieces. Less than 1ft sq. No so!
This is an awesome and easy way to apply veneer. You simply apply the right kind of PVA wood glue (Titebond II) with a roller to each surface to be bonded, then let it dry. Once dry the pieces can be positioned and manipulated because unlike contact cement, dry wood glue does not stick to itself. A clothes iron is used to apply heat and pressure causing the two layers to bond.

Why do it this way?
- contact cement stinks. A lot!
- contact cement is unforgiving. The moment it touches it is permanently bonded.
- contact cement is famous for delaminating
- ironing allows really good point pressure application and eliminates air bubbles beautifully.
Granted the odor free contact cement is a little easier to work with, but the bond is less secure. And it's still unforgiving.
- Using veneer allows one to use all kinds of beautiful and fancy woods that would otherwise be too expensive and difficult to work with.
- MDF is incredibly easy to work with and inexpensive. It has no grain or knots to affect machining and has a perfectly smooth surface for veneer application.
 
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The collar box was built out of 3/4" MDF. I had them cut it into 10.5" strips at Lowes with the big parallel cut saw they have. They will do 7 cuts at no extra charge. Running a 4' x 8' sheet through my table saw wasn't going to happen and a skillsaw is just too imprecise. I then used my table saw to make the cuts more precise. If you don't have a tablesaw, you might sweet talk them into doing a precise cut for you...
I used some MDF strips along the bottom edge and some cut down 2x4 wood on the top edge to provide rigidity and strength.
The corners were braced with steel to reduce wobble.
 
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After the whole thing was smoothed down by sanding and a little wood filler. Glue had to be applied. Use the right type as not all wood glue works. Titebond II is recommended.
 
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Glue is applied to the back of the veneer with a roller. Some talk of thinning it out with a little water, but I found that unnecessary. I just used a really low-knap roller. It did orange peel a little at first but dried pretty smooth.
At least two layers of glue are required on each surface. Make sure you get right to the edge.
 
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Once the glue is completely dry, position the veneer where you want it.
I found a piece of parchment paper worked well to keep from putting marks on the veneer surface while ironing. Use a dry iron on the cotton setting. Work from the center outwards slowly applying good steady pressure. I found angling over at the edges helped adhere the veneer there better.
The beauty of it is, if it didn't stick you can go back later and apply more heat and pressure. Go carefullly though, don't scorch the wood!
 
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Once glued on, turn the whole thing upside down. (Protect the surface of the veneer though!) Use a utility knife to carefully trim away the excess veneer. Then ever so gently sand the edge to remove splinters and sharp edges that might catch.
 
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Dont mean to nag, but mdf and water are not on friendly terms. I would paint the hell out of the interior and non-veneered surfaces with something like killz, as well as seal the hell out of the veneered edges/seams.

Out of curiosity, how much did the mdf and and veneer and materials run you?
 
Dont mean to nag, but mdf and water are not on friendly terms. I would paint the hell out of the interior and non-veneered surfaces with something like killz, as well as seal the hell out of the veneered edges/seams.

Out of curiosity, how much did the mdf and and veneer and materials run you?
You're slightly ahead of the game. I did throw some spar varnish on the inner portions of the box before I veneered, but I could have easily waited until the end to do it all together. However, I treated my all lumber collar the same way. I wouldn't trust condensation with any Wood product.
A 4x8 sheet of MSF runs about $27 and the maple veneer was $58, Canadian. I like the maple, but I'm wishing I'd gone for the quarter sawn Cherry instead. Sometimes they have Birdseye maple. That'd been sweet.
 
Interesting. Was curious to know supply cost vs just buying a pre finished sheet. I think around here a 3/4” sheet of type a ply with a nice oak, cherry, or maple veneer is like 50-60. Walnut usually abit more.

Good to hear youll be sealing well. Nice work so far.
 
Interesting. Was curious to know supply cost vs just buying a pre finished sheet. I think around here a 3/4” sheet of type a ply with a nice oak, cherry, or maple veneer is like 50-60. Walnut usually abit more.

Yes, I considered the hardwood plywood. Problem with plywood is the ends - either you live with an exposed endcut, or are left trying to mitre the corners. I've always found that tricky to get a nice finish. The other trick would be to put some end framing around all the corners to hide the joints. I priced cherry hardwood ply here and it was ~ $130/sheet.
 
Holy crap. That’s crazy expensive.

Yeah, you need a nice saw and good blade on those mitre cuts. But for that kind of money- not worth it. You’re on the right track.
 

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